Garage heater ?'s

[RazorsEdge]

I've got a Mr. Heater 38,000 BTU Forced Air Propane Heater like this one currently: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Forced-...+propane+heater Now for safety reasons I'm considering a ventless heater like this to replace it: https://www.amazon.com/Dyna-Glo-BF30PMDG...e+garage+heater What I want to know is,everything I need to hook up the Dyna-Glo heater.

 

[RazorsEdge]

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-One-Sto...1G186D8PR6TC33A This is a kit that you can purchase along with it,I'm a guessing it'll hook up to a propane tank. Trying to do this one time without running all over town buying extra parts,etc.

 

[RazorsEdge]

Looks like I need a regulator and a hose and it'll be good to go!

 

[Donald]

Both of these are ventless. You should get a combo CO/explosive gas detector and mount it low on a wall. They will produce a lot of humidity and condensation. You need to have tank outside for safety. Have you looked at propane tank vaporization rates in cold weather. I bought heaters you mention. I now have a 220v 30 amp electric heater in my garage. My big Mastiff sleeps there.

 

[gfh77665]

Forget the heaters! Give me an A/C!

 

[FZ1]

No gas. Too much boom chance.

 

[Andrew1972]

You guys have ALL wrong! In Real New Hampshah person gets a tired oil burner and then builds a multi stage rednecked filter system in front to burn WASTE oil including motor. A buddy who by appearance looks professional and ibuilt such a system to heat his infinity swimming pool.

 

[dnewton3]

I did that exact thing in my barn. I have a blue-flame heater in my barn, hooked up to a portable propane tank. You'll need a dual stage regulator; available at most hardware stores. Then get a few various hose connections to get from the regulator to the heater. Something like this ... (my local hardware source website) this one does not have tank connector: https://www.menards.com/main/heating-coo...9147&ipos=3 This one has tank connector: https://www.menards.com/main/heating-coo...9147&ipos=1 don't worry about the BTU ratings; it's OK to be oversized. I have a 30,000 BTU gas heater and use the 160,000 regualtor assy. Works fine. here is another example from HomeDepot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Worthington-2-Stage-Regulator-331891/203263169 You get the idea .... Just make sure you get a "dual stage" and not a "dual tank" set up. The desired one is made to control from tank pressure to the low stage of the gas appliance. The other (duel tank) is made for RVs which have two tanks, which I presume you'll not need, unless you want that set up specifically ....) You asked about "everything", but I cannot tell you exactly what you'd need as I don't know what all you have currently. But here's a guess: - dual stage regulator with propane tank connector (get one with the connector already included - makes life easier) - hose(s) to get from regulator to heater (I recommend at least 4' of hose to keep the tank away from the heater) - some pipe nipples which include getting from the hose to the heater inlet (sized to match whatever hose you buy) Make sure you "fit match" the combo in the store; open the packages and double check your thread connections, male/female, etc. Nothing sucks more than getting home and realizing that you forgot something, or got the "wrong" threads. Also, MAKE SURE you know the inlet size at the heater itself. It is likely 3/8" NPT and NOT 1/2"; that is a common mistake folks make. Most household appliances use 1/2" NPT inlet (gas dryers, gas stoves, etc). But these blue-flame wall heaters often use a smaller inlet, SO CHECK PRIOR TO HEADING TO THE STORE, OR BUY A FEW DIFFERENT FITTINGS WITH A BELL-REDUCER JUST IN CASE. Once you get it right, you'll be thrilled!

 

[SHOZ]

I have an Empire Blue Flame 20k btu ventless heater and I use it to heat my whole 1000sq ft ranch house in Central Illinois. Been using it for 4 years now. Many said I would be dead by now. My outside 500 gallon propane tank has two regulators, ~5 psi from the tank to the house and a regular ~1 psi regulator for the gas going into the house. Never had a problem with vaporization and we were down to a -24F and a couple other -20F nights in the last two weeks. You need constant exhaust ventilation in the house unless you have a very drafty house. I use a bath fan exhaust and it runs 24/7. CO is not a problem as long as you have enough O2 in the house. The flames will yellow as the O2 content goes down. The O2 content will go down because of the CO2 produced. I would advise getting a CO2 meter to monitor the air and for me you need to keep it below 4k ppm. My CO meter has never made a peep. It has a fan on it and it runs all the time. But I also use a box fan to blow the cool air out of the space I am in at the time.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ

I have an Empire Blue Flame 20k btu ventless heater and I use it to heat my whole 1000sq ft ranch house in Central Illinois. Been using it for 4 years now. Many said I would be dead by now. My outside 500 gallon propane tank has two regulators, ~5 psi from the tank to the house and a regular ~1 psi regulator for the gas going into the house. Never had a problem with vaporization and we were down to a -24F and a couple other -20F nights in the last two weeks. You need constant exhaust ventilation in the house unless you have a very drafty house. I use a bath fan exhaust and it runs 24/7. CO is not a problem as long as you have enough O2 in the house. The flames will yellow as the O2 content goes down. The O2 content will go down because of the CO2 produced. I would advise getting a CO2 meter to monitor the air and for me you need to keep it below 4k ppm. My CO meter has never made a peep. It has a fan on it and it runs all the time. But I also use a box fan to blow the cool air out of the space I am in at the time.

You won't have vaporization issues with a 500 gal tank. But might with a 20 lb or 100 lb. A 500 gal is not cheap to buy and a small gas heater will not use enough propane for propane company to rent it to you for free.

 

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted By: Donald

Originally Posted By: SHOZ

I have an Empire Blue Flame 20k btu ventless heater and I use it to heat my whole 1000sq ft ranch house in Central Illinois. Been using it for 4 years now. Many said I would be dead by now. My outside 500 gallon propane tank has two regulators, ~5 psi from the tank to the house and a regular ~1 psi regulator for the gas going into the house. Never had a problem with vaporization and we were down to a -24F and a couple other -20F nights in the last two weeks. You need constant exhaust ventilation in the house unless you have a very drafty house. I use a bath fan exhaust and it runs 24/7. CO is not a problem as long as you have enough O2 in the house. The flames will yellow as the O2 content goes down. The O2 content will go down because of the CO2 produced. I would advise getting a CO2 meter to monitor the air and for me you need to keep it below 4k ppm. My CO meter has never made a peep. It has a fan on it and it runs all the time. But I also use a box fan to blow the cool air out of the space I am in at the time.

You won't have vaporization issues with a 500 gal tank. But might with a 20 lb or 100 lb. A 500 gal is not cheap to buy and a small gas heater will not use enough propane for propane company to rent it to you for free.

The 400 gallons they put in when they fill to 80% will last me a whole year using for cooking and water heating as well as heat. But when I bought one of these heaters I had a 125 gallon tank and needed to get the bigger one. All but one company wanted to outright sell me the tank and then contractually tie me to their company for fills. I called around and found one who not only do not try to sell me the tank or even charge rent and they installed it or free, I do have to use them for the supply but they are pretty competitive and I get a discounted "summer fill" rate to fill the tank.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ

Originally Posted By: Donald

Originally Posted By: SHOZ

I have an Empire Blue Flame 20k btu ventless heater and I use it to heat my whole 1000sq ft ranch house in Central Illinois. Been using it for 4 years now. Many said I would be dead by now. My outside 500 gallon propane tank has two regulators, ~5 psi from the tank to the house and a regular ~1 psi regulator for the gas going into the house. Never had a problem with vaporization and we were down to a -24F and a couple other -20F nights in the last two weeks. You need constant exhaust ventilation in the house unless you have a very drafty house. I use a bath fan exhaust and it runs 24/7. CO is not a problem as long as you have enough O2 in the house. The flames will yellow as the O2 content goes down. The O2 content will go down because of the CO2 produced. I would advise getting a CO2 meter to monitor the air and for me you need to keep it below 4k ppm. My CO meter has never made a peep. It has a fan on it and it runs all the time. But I also use a box fan to blow the cool air out of the space I am in at the time.

You won't have vaporization issues with a 500 gal tank. But might with a 20 lb or 100 lb. A 500 gal is not cheap to buy and a small gas heater will not use enough propane for propane company to rent it to you for free.

The 400 gallons they put in when they fill to 80% will last me a whole year using for cooking and water heating as well as heat. But when I bought one of these heaters I had a 125 gallon tank and needed to get the bigger one. All but one company wanted to outright sell me the tank and then contractually tie me to their company for fills. I called around and found one who not only do not try to sell me the tank or even charge rent and they installed it or free, I do have to use them for the supply but they are pretty competitive and I get a discounted "summer fill" rate to fill the tank.

Obviously it varies, but typically owning the tank gets you the cheapest cost per gallon for propane. Some companies are highway robbers as to price per gallon when you rent the tank. The house I bought in DE had a rented tank. I made a offer and bought the tank from the propane company. I will continue to use the same company but will get their cheaper rate. The previous owners had recently installed heat pumps and the only thing left using propane was water heater and two fireplaces. So minimal propane usage going forward.

 

[SHOZ]

One thing i have experienced is the "low oxygen shut off" or what ever you want to call it. It is a secondary thermocouple sensor attached to the gas valve control. What it sense is the flame getting minutely shorter and is a pretty narrow range. This winter I did not do my annual heater cleaning. And had noticed a strong smell when I first started using it. This disappeared though and I assumed it was from the new propane or something. But my flamage was quite yellow. One morning the heater shut off and I could light the pilot but it would not hold. I took it apart, which is only eight screws to dismantle the whole thing, and found a dust bunny in one of the air intake ports on the end of the burner tube. took that off and the pilot light got about 1/4" taller and strayed lit. Plenty of propane competition around me. The farmers use it big time for grain drying and most homes in the rural areas use it for heat. The company that offered the free use of the tank was looking for new business so I just lucked out some what. Most wanted at least $300 for one and a 250 gallon was the smallest I could find.

 

[bmwjohn]

also in W. Indy, attached garage, natural gas, thinking of Rural King Greenwood for 30k btu $189? w/blower, etc. both for very cold days to reduce possible freezing, and give some workspace as neeeded, and emergency back up if furnace dies. Comes w/blower, kit needed or better at Lowes? Is this going to rust out in summer? from moisture? Perhaps $250 plus labor for reas. expenditure? Anywhere cheaper? Northern Tool slightly cheaper, no tax, no blower.

 

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted By: bmwjohn

also in W. Indy, attached garage, natural gas, thinking of Rural King Greenwood for 30k btu $189? w/blower, etc. both for very cold days to reduce possible freezing, and give some workspace as neeeded, and emergency back up if furnace dies. Comes w/blower, kit needed or better at Lowes? Is this going to rust out in summer? from moisture? Perhaps $250 plus labor for reas. expenditure? Anywhere cheaper? Northern Tool slightly cheaper, no tax, no blower.

I would get the blower though most can easily ave one added and I have found replacements for under $20. I leave the blower on 24/7 when the pilot is lit. 30k btu is pretty big too for just the garage. I have a 20k btu one and I use if for my whole house, around 1000 sq ft. When in high flame for any amount of time it needs some ventilation to keep the CO2 level down. The burner on mine is stainless steel so no rusting. Though I would take it apart once a year and clean the dust out. They usually come apart with just a few screws.