Garage door openers

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Since I don't have Flash on my computer, I can't load their website. I hate that nonsense. The suits need supervise the geeks a little better. I don't deal with unfriendly websites. Guess I will be buying Chamberlain. Now the question is, will the rubber drive belt need readjustment like the chain drives do, and eventually cost an arm and a leg to replace when it breaks?
 
I'm sorry I missed the beginning of this thread. If the "voting" is still open, I'd cast mine for the Genie Screwdrive. I installed mine myself (I'm a lawyer, fer cryin' out loud) and seven years and only about three lube jobs later, the thing still hums along absolutely perfectly.

I did NOT mess with the door spring mechanism myself, as I value my survival. . . I had a pro rewind the springs for me a couple years ago when one let go (a memorable event if you happen to be in the vicinity).

I could be wrong, but to me, the screw drive mechanism seems more fundamentally sound than either the chain or belt systems. The little "truck" that rides atop the long spinning screw looks like it's made to last forever. I examined my system a few months ago, still plenty of grease up there, and all still looks new.

I say, "screw it!"
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quote:

Originally posted by wavinwayne:
Just remeber the most important rule in garage door safety is:

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Does that ever really happen? The garage in my house is probably >20 years old, and when it comes in contact with someone, it just stops. I suspect the types that could actually crush someone went out of production 30+ years ago.
 
The key today is the proper calibration of the emergency reverse mechanism. Test its sensitivity with an appropriate item (other than the neighbor's obnoxious kid...).
 
Still looking. Some kind of crud kept me from doing much the last month. Spent the last 3 days working working on the sound system at the church. told all I had to do was remove a molding strip and drill a few holes. Yeah, right.

I have also spent some time trying to fix the old circuit board.

Tomorrow I give a talk on dogs in the morning and then go to my daughters house for some serious tree removal Friday and Saturday. That will give me the option of looking at other than Sears, Lowes and HD.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ekpolk:
The key today is the proper calibration of the emergency reverse mechanism. Test its sensitivity with an appropriate item (other than the neighbor's obnoxious kid...).

A FRAM filter...
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quote:

Originally posted by Michael Wan:

quote:

Originally posted by ekpolk:
The key today is the proper calibration of the emergency reverse mechanism. Test its sensitivity with an appropriate item (other than the neighbor's obnoxious kid...).

A FRAM filter...
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nahhh, there are still better options for less money...besides frams are so cheaply made that the light beam would prolly just travel on through the filter like it wasn't there...
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Actually, I was thinking of the pressure sensor that's supposed to reverse the door if it "feels" resistance before the door is all the way down. Your point is still valid though -- the Fram might crush so easily that the system fails to "notice" it.

Well, we've veered pretty well OT, haven't we.

Seriously, I read somewhere that a new roll of paper towel is a good test object. Ideally, the system should reverse the door before it fully crushes the roll. Also, teaching your kids to respect the door in the first place isn't a bad idea either.
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I fixed the old one! For nothing at that. Problem was the clutch switch. I could not figure out how that sucker worked. There was a fixed ring of copper wire, and a contact that turned with the screw drive. Near as I could see the contact was always in contact with the wire.

When I was at my daughter's for the tree cutting adventure last week, I dragged home a chain drive unit with a stripped gear hoping to salvage its controls. Only seemed to run one way. Maybe that is why it stripped the gear. Got to looking at its clutch switch. It had a slotted plastic cap running through an optical sensor. As long as the sprocket is turning, the light pulses. No pulse, and it cuts power to the motor. Hummmm. I painted spots all around the ring of copper wire. Put it together, and it works fine. Used the touch up paint from a car I traded off in 1992. Never know when you may need it.

When I saw the old door opener unit, I told him, he is as bad as his father in law about keeping stuff that should have been thrown away. We also used the track from it as a pry bar in our tree cutting.
 
We have two Genie trac drives or something, which I unplugged and unhooked. Both units seem to have special high hum transformers, evidently made to make you feel at home if you like being around high voltage power lines. Worse of all it was embarrasing to open the door at night or early in the morning as it kind of reminded me of the M60 tanks that I use to often hear, clawing up a hill. Not like you're next to one though as they're very loud, just one or two houses away.

Both doors have had a rope pull for quite awhile now, which required training for the kids to keep from slamming the door when closing it.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 1sttruck:
We have two Genie trac drives or something, which I unplugged and unhooked. Both units seem to have special high hum transformers, evidently made to make you feel at home if you like being around high voltage power lines. Worse of all it was embarrasing to open the door at night or early in the morning as it kind of reminded me of the M60 tanks that I use to often hear, clawing up a hill. Not like you're next to one though as they're very loud, just one or two houses away.

Both doors have had a rope pull for quite awhile now, which required training for the kids to keep from slamming the door when closing it.


1st:

I can't tell for sure, since I can't see your door, but that sure sounds like you need to get your balancing springs adjusted (very dangerous if done improperly -- recommend you not try this yourself).
 
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