Garage door numbered hinges

[JHZR2]

One of the garage buildings I’ve recently bought has two very old (30s or 40s) overhead doors. They’re 9’ high, so bigger than typical home garage doors, at least in the old garages around here, and of course very heavy.

They have original hinge hardware, and some of it is bent or not quite right. I think over the years probably cars bumped the doors at least once. I’ve been working to refurbish the doors as needed.

Examples of the original hinges:

When I had springs replaced, the service guy gave me a few hinges. They were #1 and #2.

A #1 hinge has only one hole, so the roller shaft goes through it. #2 and higher hinges have two holes, which I believe is to allow the hinge to be tight to the door, and the roller to be offset.

I put the new #2 hinge in the #2 spot, and the roller in the offset position. I was pleased with the fit. The original hinges caused the door to sit a bit too far from the building for that panel only. All other panels sat nicely against the wood trim, but this section didn’t. When I put the new #2 hinge in like this, it sat correctly against the trim.

However, when I tried to roll the door up, after a few feet the door would hang and I couldn’t push it any more upwards. I think these rollers were causing a bind.

When I put the rollers into the lower hole on the new hinge, they work fine, but the door again is tilted slightly so there’s a gap at the edge of the door between the door face and the side trim.

I did not put all new hardware on all door sections. I don’t know that to be the cause of issue, I guess maybe it could?

So which of the two holes is the roller supposed to go in? Any suggestion on how to make things better?

Full disclosure the doors went up and down well with the old hinges. Some of the rollers were just completely messy, a few hinges were bent, and some weren’t holding the rollers correctly.

Thanks!

 

[JohnnyG]

That hinge in the bottom picture, the new one, looks just a little bit low to me. I think you may have to change the bolt holes in the bottom section and move that hinge up about 3/8".

 

[JHZR2]

That hinge in the bottom picture, the new one, looks just a little bit low to me. I think you may have to change the bolt holes in the bottom section and move that hinge up about 3/8".

Thank you! Sorry, but what do you mean by “low”? I’m not really familiar with how these things are supposed to go. The hinge line (the opening between the two halves) is right at the break between the two door panels.

 

[JohnnyG]

Maybe it's just the way the picture was taken, but it doesn't look lined up to me. Try putting a square on the upper section and line it up with the split, then see if it lines up. Other than that, make sure the rollers are the same size so they don't bind in the tracks.
Compare the two pictures, the bottom and the one above it, and it looks a bit more obvious.

 

[JHZR2]

Maybe it's just the way the picture was taken, but it doesn't look lined up to me. Try putting a square on the upper section and line it up with the split, then see if it lines up. Other than that, make sure the rollers are the same size so they don't bind in the tracks.
Compare the two pictures, the bottom and the one above it, and it looks a bit more obvious.

Those are two different locations in the pics above. The rollers were the original ones I refurbished, as they roll perfect.

When in the “higher” hole, either these or some other set do bind when they hit the curved area. I wasn’t able to see which was actually binding. Putting the roller in the lower hole resolved the binding and the door works perfectly, it’s just that there’s a gap at that one panel. Like 1/4-1/2” instead of 16. But it’s probably need this way for 30 years if not more, lol.

I will get eyes on the Hinge line vs door line to see if there’s a difference there. Thanks for that tip!