Furnace Problems - Trouble Shooting

W = White
R = Red

Yes, that would work (turn furnace ON and run continuously)
The devise in video I linked to would cycle furnace ON/OFF and maintain 65°
That would give homeowner time to shop for a thermostat.
I know that. I would not attempt to keep the house at a specific temperature. Just connect the wires until the house is close to 80 degrees, then disconnect and wait until the house was close to 50 and repeat. If going away from home (like to work) you just heat up the house enough before you go (if it's below freezing outside) then shut if off before you leave. Home Depot / Lowes / etc stock thermostats. If it's shoulder season and you can go without heat and AC for days, then sure, mail order.
 
The inducer motor on my furnace is making a racket of a noise and will sometimes slow down enough to trip the pressure switch causing the furnace to short cycle.

I order 2 new “OEM” motors, or at least I thought they were, from 2 different online parts warehouses and both have been DOA, and the replacements went “on order” so I cancelled it. 🤦‍♂️

I took the original motor apart a little and cleaned it up for the time being, but will try an aftermarket one from Amazon which is almost half the cost. Hope to have better luck with that.

I also bought new limit switches and a new pressure switch just because they were so cheap, it will be good to have on hand. Before this issue with my furnace I was afraid of the big scary furnace, but they’re really quite simple to work on, thanks to help from YouTube.
Unless Grainger closes you should be able to get a motor the same day locally.
 
Unless Grainger closes you should be able to get a motor the same day locally.
I did check there. My closest Grainger is about 30 miles away, not too far, so I’ll keep that in mind. The price is almost double compared to the “online hvac warehouse” though 😕.

I didn’t order the aftermarket one from Amazon yet, because the cleaning of the old one seems to be working so far. So I’ve put it on the back burner. Probably not a good idea…

If I buy the Amazon one and it ends up being junk, I’ll get it locally at Grainger…at least I’ll be able to inspect it before buying.
 
If your furnace ever turns the flame on and then shuts it off a few seconds later, it's probably the flame sensor. Many furnaces will blink an error code which means no flame was detected by the flame sensor.

You can often clean the flame sensor with steel wool or fine sandpaper to fix it.
This happened to us about 7 years ago, and I was clueless, so this post is helpful. My coworker texted me (we were worried, single digits, and house now 52F, electric portable heaters were like a pebble thrown into a lake. He said please remove your filter, then see if your furnace will stay on. It did. The final fix was a combination of increasing the blower speed by moving jumpers, and using cheap filters. We got by another 5 years that way. Ultimately low end hvac was installed 1999 and AC failed 2019 (Bryant with a SEER of 10).

I went around in circles, if I have used these $8 filters for 14 years, why, all of a sudden, can't I? It was counter intuitive--I put in a new $8 filter, and 1 week later, furnace won't stay on.

A indie hvac guy came, looked, and said buy the cheapest filter you can find, I'm talking 50 cents to $1.50. Now he explained to me nothing on the internet seemed to, when they said the same thing. The reason you go cheap filter isn't because good filters strain your blower motor. It's because your blower motor can't do what it was designed to do, as it's old. He said it's like an old man, it can't blow like it could when it was a young man.
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We got new hvac in 2020, and the new 94% system has one of them ECM motors and the filter is now 3" thick and costs over $30 each. I didn't choose that I guess I didn't even research at the time.

So if ever in a pinch and the furnace is short cycling, please try removing the filter altogether to see if you can get by until a repair is done. OR, go to the big box store and pick up the really cheap filters, they come in 3 or 4 and are likely barely $1 each. You can change them out every week if needed to keep going.

What I also learned is replacing the blower really isn't a DIY job, and normally if it's over 10 y.o., may need a new furnace, as it could approach $1,000. Also, furnaces last much longer than an AC condenser, but AC relies upon the furnace's blower and the evap is also integral to the furnace. So when AC fails, again, conventional wisdom might throw out the furnace. Not only that, if like us, we went from a 78% furnace to a 94% one.

Hope all stay warm!! :)
 
We got new hvac in 2020, and the new 94% system has one of them ECM motors and the filter is now 3" thick and costs over $30 each. I didn't choose that I guess I didn't even research at the time.

Those 3" filters will last at least a year or more.
What I also learned is replacing the blower really isn't a DIY job

It's easier than changing the CV axles on a FWD car.
 
Those 3" filters will last at least a year or more.


It's easier than changing the CV axles on a FWD car.
Last time I did CV axles one side was easy, the other side was darn near impossible. That's why I avoid FWD. Not to mention they destroy tires. Maybe it's a trade-off noone is willing to make, but I stick with RWD because when the road is dry or wet, other than snow/ice, the handling is much better.

p.s. goodness gracious. I got a 4 pack for $121 in August 2020. They're now $184. Aprilaire 413s. Where is WIX when we need them?!
 
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goodness gracious. I got a 4 pack for $121 in August 2020. They're now $184. Aprilaire 413s. Where is WIX when we need them?!
But at less than $50 per year (recommended interval) that's not too bad. Also you could step down to the 410 if you don't need what the 413 offers, and it's a lower MERV.
 
I never once had to clean the one on my York furnace in the 17 years I lived in the house with it.

But I've had to clean the one on the Goodman furnace in my mom's house.

Difference? York furnace is in the basement. Goodman furnace is in the attic. A stupid location for a furnace.
Must be from "clean living." Furnaces near a dryer seem to get a good dose of lint sometimes.
 
The inducer motor on my furnace is making a racket of a noise and will sometimes slow down enough to trip the pressure switch causing the furnace to short cycle.

I order 2 new “OEM” motors, or at least I thought they were, from 2 different online parts warehouses and both have been DOA, and the replacements went “on order” so I cancelled it. 🤦‍♂️

The aftermarket motor I bought locally was also making lots of noise.

Check out repairclinic.com for OEM parts. Fixed the issue for me.

they give 10% off first orders with the code welcome and they price match
 
That's why I avoid FWD. Not to mention they destroy tires.
Yep, I’ve found that too, but not a lot of 30mpg plus RWD’s out there. Plus I get plenty of snow and ice.

My last RWD snapped a spring and the shop had to break out the torch on it, don’t think it was even 10 years old. Some jobs just suck.
 
The aftermarket motor I bought locally was also making lots of noise.

Check out repairclinic.com for OEM parts. Fixed the issue for me.

they give 10% off first orders with the code welcome and they price match
That’s where I got the first DOA, then a day after they issued a replacement order, it went out of stock and never shipped 🙄. I bought some of the other parts there and that went well.
 
That’s where I got the first DOA, then a day after they issued a replacement order, it went out of stock and never shipped 🙄. I bought some of the other parts there and that went well.
My furnace died tonight. It wasn’t related to the inducer motor (which is still working ok after I clean it up a while back, but I now have a spare just in case)

The control board was blinking 2 flashes which was the pressure switch open. I had a replacement switch so I installed it. Turned it back on and the first cycle was going ok, but then I heard a bacon sizzling sound coming from the transformer, and then the furnace shut down.

I cycled the power off and back on and the furnace started back up. But that sizzling bacon sound came back before the blower started, so I killed all the power to the furnace.

Great. Now the furnace is dead a couple days before -10°F temps. I’m currently relying on 4 electric oil filled radiators I was previously using to just supplement the furnace, but now they are my main heat.

So I ordered a new transformer which will be here tomorrow, but then I started reading some forums and saw other problems could be the cause of the transformer failing. Like the main board or short circuits. I inspected the wires and all seemed ok, nothing looked like it shorted out.

Could the transformer just have gone bad? Or is something else going on here….
 
Disconnect the output wires from the transformer (leave the input connected) then power up the furnace. If the transformer still buzzes and burns, it is bad.

If not then you need to check the 24 volt system for shorts. The last thing touched, that draft switch, would be a prime suspect.
 
Disconnect the output wires from the transformer (leave the input connected) then power up the furnace. If the transformer still buzzes and burns, it is bad.

If not then you need to check the 24 volt system for shorts. The last thing touched, that draft switch, would be a prime suspect.
Thank you for these tips. I tried what you said and it lead me back to the draft motor. I guess it turned out it was the draft motor all along. The “sizzling” noise I heard must have been the relays just trying over and over to get past the “pressure switch is ok let’s fire it up” test.

Not entirely sure and I’m far from a furnace expert (I have no idea what I’m doing), but I inspected the draft motor again and noticed the fan blades were barely attached to the motor shaft. It was still attached but when the fan motor was on, the fan blades were barely spinning, but sometimes they would. Interesting, I didn’t even notice that when I cleaned it up a while back. So I installed the new draft motor I bought and so far so good.

Then I glued the fan blades back on the old motor and will use it as a back up. I think it was fine besides the blades falling off!

Not 100% convinced yet that it was the only problem with the furnace, but it’s been cycling on and off like normal throughout the -10° night and cold day we had today without any issue. So maybe that’s all it was. New draft motor sounds a lot better too.

Thanks again for your tips. Without it I may have not gone back to the draft motor as quickly.
 
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