Fun times in the garage

Sometimes I jack the car high enough to put the Rhino ramps under it, they are convenient in that there's more room down the middle, remembering to chock the other tires. And for exhaust work I'll use the ramps and jack stands to get it a little higher. I have the larger 16,000 lbs ramp set and 6 ton jack stands. The biggest vehicle here is a 4Runner with a V6, I think I'd use even more caution with anything bigger.

One trick is to rock the vehicle back a little to wedge the ramp under the tire before driving it up to keep them from sliding around but you can still end up with them uneven. Just pushing the top of the tire back a little can be enough to get the ramp wedged providing the rubber pad is still intact and serviceable. Trust your instincts and add support when you think you have to, that's the good kind of freight that may keep you from harm. I surely don't want anyone to get in over their ability but I thought I may add some guidance for those who are going to use ramps.
 
Well, my Accord isnt a poweful FWD either, I was just an idiot. LOL I find it interesting that you use ramps with your Tacoma and 4Runner. Ive owned a couple 4Runners in my day (an '85 and a '91) and I always just crawled underneath them, either with a creeper or just lying on a piece of cardboard. Hey, whatever works though.
Oh you absolutely can! The ramps just make it even easier!

Hey, they’re there, why not use them, right?
 
Sometimes I jack the car high enough to put the Rhino ramps under it, they are convenient in that there's more room down the middle, remembering to chock the other tires. And for exhaust work I'll use the ramps and jack stands to get it a little higher. I have the larger 16,000 lbs ramp set and 6 ton jack stands. The biggest vehicle here is a 4Runner with a V6, I think I'd use even more caution with anything bigger.

One trick is to rock the vehicle back a little to wedge the ramp under the tire before driving it up to keep them from sliding around but you can still end up with them uneven. Just pushing the top of the tire back a little can be enough to get the ramp wedged providing the rubber pad is still intact and serviceable. Trust your instincts and add support when you think you have to, that's the good kind of freight that may keep you from harm. I surely don't want anyone to get in over their ability but I thought I may add some guidance for those who are going to use ramps.
The WRX was a bit tricky because it was a stick.

The ramps came in very handy when I installed a hidden hitch receiver on that car.
 
I gave up on using those ramps, it only takes a little more time to use a floor jack and jack stands. I recommend grabbing a floor jack on sale, if you take care of them they last a long time.

1.5 car must be rough, I have 3 and want more.
 
So, long story short, I moved from Wisconsin to Ohio about 8 years ago. When I lived in Wisconsin, I had a wonderful 1.5 car garage with every tool that you could imagine. I did all of my own vehicle maintenance.
Then, I loved to Ohio because my girlfriend got a great job and didnt have a garage for the last 8 years and simply took my car to the dealership for all maintenance.
Well, last year we bought a house that has a lovely little 1.5 car garage, so I decided to start doing my own maintenance again.
Part of me was a bit afraid of what I might find messed up on my car but I gave it a whirl anyways.
So, first off, I bought these plastic ramps to drive my Accord up on. I go to drive up them, get halfway up and realize that Im not going to make it, so I give it a little gas and next thing I know it chucks that ramps out from under my front tires and under my car. Ok, no biggie, I jack up the front of the car and put it on jack stands instead.
Lessons learned, in the trash the ramps went and we're using jack stands from now on.
Next, I go to take the drain plug off and I literally have to beat on the ratchet to get the plug out. Then I noticed the crush washer isnt on the plug, so I go to find it and find it to be stuck on the oil pan. Ok, no biggie, I simply had to pry it off the oil pan with a screwdriver. Fortunately, the threads on the plug werent tore up.
Then, I go to remove the oil filter and it was on so tight that I literally crushed it with my oil filter pliers. Again, no biggie but OK.
Then, I go to replace my engine air filter and find that my air box isnt connected to the fender air intake. That would probably explain why my car revs for a second when I start it sometimes and why it feels like it lacks power sometimes.
So, I get it all done: 4.4 quarts of Valvoline synthetic, Napa Platinum filter, new engine air filter, new cabin air filter and new wipers. The only thing that I didnt do was rotate tires because it was raining and my garage isnt big enough to rotate tires inside. I'll do that next weekend or sometime soon.
So yeah, fun day and it reminded my just why I used to do my own vehicle maintenance.
Classic, and spot on.
 
For someone like me with lots of sinus problems, the name RHINO has a bad connotation. However, my ramps work really well. After having one episode of "spin-out" a few years ago, I altered my technique so that if I don't make the top on my first try, I back all the way down and go a tad harder on the next try so that I'm not tempted to goose it halfway up! And yes, it's trickier with Redwings!
There are some good thoughts in this thread and the one about the carpet pad got me thinking...........
 
I use inexpensive plastic ramps to change oil on my G5, bc my heavier metal ramps are too steep for the front end.
Never spun ramps out from under a car, slow, slow, steady throttle application is the key to get up.
If in doubt, back down, check position, and try again - have done that several times. Don’t ever be in a rush!
 
I recently bought a 2021 Ford Escape and will be needing Ramps to change the Oil & Filter.
To add to the hassle, there is a Shield (10 fasteners) underneath the engine.

Local Mechanic wants $70.00 for an oil & filter change.
Ramps cost between $72. thru $191.

I'm getting alittle older, but would like to change the oil myself for as long as possible.

Here are two I'm thinking of getting.
But first I have to jack my vehicle up to see if the Ramps rise will be enough.


 
I recently bought a 2021 Ford Escape and will be needing Ramps to change the Oil & Filter.
To add to the hassle, there is a Shield (10 fasteners) underneath the engine.

Local Mechanic wants $70.00 for an oil & filter change.
Ramps cost between $72. thru $191.

I'm getting alittle older, but would like to change the oil myself for as long as possible.

Here are two I'm thinking of getting.
But first I have to jack my vehicle up to see if the Ramps rise will be enough.


Just get a ~$40 set of Rhino Ramps
 
I recently bought a 2021 Ford Escape and will be needing Ramps to change the Oil & Filter.
To add to the hassle, there is a Shield (10 fasteners) underneath the engine.

Local Mechanic wants $70.00 for an oil & filter change.
Ramps cost between $72. thru $191.

I'm getting alittle older, but would like to change the oil myself for as long as possible.

Here are two I'm thinking of getting.
But first I have to jack my vehicle up to see if the Ramps rise will be enough.


I would just put it up on jack stands. I trust steel jack stands more than I do plastic ramps. Not to mention you dont have the risk of accidentally driving off the ramps.
As for the 10 fasteners on the shield: Id strongly consider a cordless or air ratchet. Ive got a Craftsman V20 ratchet (because my wife's Hyundai has the same underbody shield) and its OK but its kind of wimpy. I believe that its max torque is something like 30 lb-ft. I was honestly torn between the Husky 12v ratchet and the Craftsman and sometimes I wish that I would have went with the Husky because its got a much smaller form factor. The Craftsman is kind of bit an bulky. Im looking at buying a big air compressor in a couple months and getting myself an air ratchet.
 
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