FULL OVERHAUL QUESTIONS PART 2

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Thanks Punisher, Mechtech, StevieC and all the other guys who gave me such valuable info so far before I even received my Overhaul text book in the mail. Oh and I forgot Kruse...plus more. Engine: VG30E 2960cc V6CYL OK so i've made some progress, i'm almost done setting up the hoist tonight, I set up the engine stand on the weekend. Car is stripped bone and ready for tranny & engine to come out. I called the machine shops, and they gave me some pricing...I was shocked at how expensive some of this is - especially the valve job. Questions: 1. Can you guys explain to me something about the valve job - the following detail so I don't get ripped. One guy said $6.00/guide OR $15.00/guide&seat. If after the inspection, the tolerance is off, does this automatically mean the seat, guide, and valve should be tossed and replaced? So, if 1 part of the 3 needs to be replaced, is it wise to just do all 3? One guy said he can just grind the seats and grind the valves. Why is the other guy saying it needs to be replaced. 2. One shop said if I do any select valves, I should do ALL of them. This engine is 16yrs old, and high mileage city driving. Is this true? 3. Punisher, I don't see the moly based assembly lube on Lubriplate website, for the camshafts. There are 2 camshafts in this engine and they have hydraulic valve lifters....so I take it this automatically makes it the flat tappet cam type? What brands and models can you recommend for this specific lube. 4. After the hot tank, (the VG30E is a cast iron block) what do I coat the coolant section in so it doesn't rust in the meantime before I re-assemble, which will happen within AUG hopefully. I can keep the block indoors, and I do have a heat gun and air compressor blow gun. The remaining you instructed to coat with oil. 5. If my RH camshaft is broken and I suspect it's ruined, I think i'm going to try and replace it with a junk yard one. New cam shafts are 500 a pop for the VG30. Can I re-use my existing hydraulic valve lifters with a unknown JY camshaft? Also can I replace the RH camshaft with used one or new one, while the LH camshaft is the original OEM one? Or do they BOTH have to be replaced at the same time. Photos to come soon once it's on the stand.
 
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I'll give you my $.02 worth. THESE ARE MY OPINIONS ONLY and I'm sure someone will disagree. I will freely admit that I've done a few overhauls, but for myself only. If you do them for buddies, they expect a "lifetime warranty". Refresh my memory....are you overhauling this because it used oil or was there a burnt valve? 1. If the thing ran on all cylinders and there are no burnt valves, you should be able to regrind what you got and not have to purchase new, unless the valve has too much clearance in the valve guide. You won't know what needs replacing until the engine is tore down, so whatever a machinist tells you now is just guesswork. 2. Does he get a commission on parts? Your replacement should have the same specs as OE. (hopefully) 4. While the coolant passages might get a very slight layer of rust, if it is kept dry it should be okay. I've never coated coolant passages to prevent rust. Unless your specific application needs it, don't bother. (Cast iron, right?) 5. Refresh my memory. This broke? Why did it break? I'm against reusing lifters with a new or different camshaft. I'm sure new ones aren't cheap, but always get a new lifter when replacing a camshaft with either a new or used one. Reuse the other camshaft if it is good. On the lifters that well be reused, KEEP THEM IN THE SPECIFIC ORDER THAT THEY CAME OUT. They are wore in to the specific areas of the lobes of the camshaft. FYI, when you get your block back from the hot tank, take WD-40 and paper towels and wipe the cylinder bores until there is no more visible residue on your paper towels. You will be amazed how much comes out of there. Don't use solvent. Solvent will push the particles into the bore. FYI, I have done some work on Taurus SHO V8 32V engines and some 4.6 32V on my own vehicles. I actually hate doing it because there is not enough aftermarket support to keep the prices for the parts down. Anytime you get parts, you will be losing some big dollars. The price of your camshaft proves this also. I'm looking forward to some disagreements. Hopefully I'm not to old to learn a thing or two.
 
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1993_VG30E_GXE

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Thanks bud. ANSWERS--> I'm overhauling it because there is a massively loud rattling metal sound coming from the RH cylinder head. The distributor blew out (attaches to RH camshaft) and I put in a replacement distributor and the same noise was still there. It sounds like the RH side is starved of oil and the camshaft is rattling all over the place. I'll see when I open it. I've had several opinions on what it might be: -Dying Oil Pump caused oil starvation then finally death of those valvetrain components -Clogged oil galleries starved that section -Improper timing belt tension (Belt was changed by a mechanic 2 yrs ago) And yes it burnt mad oil. It was consuming alot. Also there is a snapped stud on the exhaust manifold flange and it has made a loud puttering sound for the last 3 yrs...I was going to remove the engine anyways to fix that. 2. He wouldn't get a commission on parts because i'll supply 100% of the parts, but he would get alot more labor of course. 4. Yes it's cast iron. OK, I'll just confirm it's dry by using the heat gun and blow gun once I get it home. 5. I'll confirm the damage once I open it later this week. Photos to come. I found the camshafts for a good price $123.00 each new, but those lifters are a rip - they are like $20.00 each. I may try the WD-40 thing, but WD-40 is 50% stoddard solvent, won't this just push it into the bore? Do you think it would be wiser to just wipe it with 2-stroke oil, as this is what some have recommended to lube the bores and new rings with anyways.
 
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I guess everybody has their own methods. If you Google "Cleaning cylinder walls with WD-40", dozens of hits will come up. Here is one: http://www.1993-honda-civic.com/category/d-series-engine/d16/ I had an automotive teacher show me that trick 30 years ago and it's amazing how much crud still comes off even after a power wash. Get it disassembled and then you will know what your problems are. Pix would be nice. Keep us informed.
 
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Valve guides may need to be replaced,. They wear slowly, but do wear. I don't see a need for NEW seats. Why cant he dress/cut them after the guides are in place? This is normal. Make sure 'whoever' gets the valve stem height right after any grinding, so the valve actuating/adjusting mechanisms will be in the correct range. There is no reason you can't change only one cam. Make sure it is the same as the original, though! New lifters? If the bases are good, re use them. Overhead cam lifters/buckets don't have a convex wear surface like pushrod engines do. Sure, all new parts are best, but it gets ridiculous fast. Query the head rebuilders about why new seats are needed. And what is the excess slop that makes guide replacement necessary.
 

1993_VG30E_GXE

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Mechtech - it totally gets ridiculous. Of course thosse machine shops want to me to do 'everything' and they say it all needs to be done, but the cost of the parts for this VG30E engine are insane. I could be spending over a thousand in just parts, this is not to mention the weeks of work i've already put in. I'm FINALLY removing the engine and tranny tommorow. I had to cut out the drive axle from the tranny because I couldn't get the seized bearing retainer bracket thing to let go. RE: LIFTER BASES - IF GOOD DON'T REPLACE Is it possible to get them machined to a complete flat surface - is that the judgement call - they check for flatness and if they aren't flat they say I need to replace them? I'll print out all your questions guys to make sure they don't rip me a new one.
 
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 Originally Posted By: 1993_VG30E_GXE
RE: LIFTER BASES - IF GOOD DON'T REPLACE Is it possible to get them machined to a complete flat surface - is that the judgement call - they check for flatness and if they aren't flat they say I need to replace them?
I have yet to see a machine shop machine a lifter base. I believe you mentioned that you might get a used camshaft from the salvage yard, correct? If you are going to do that, just have them give you all the lifters that go with it. Reuse them and keep them in order. When you get your old engine apart, figure up what it will take to fix it and then look at the price of a rebuilt engine. I know you won't get the knowledge of rebuilding yours, but sometimes you can save a lot of money just by getting a rebuilt engine instead.
 
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Just to clarify my statement- on OHC engines, there is a lifter bucket. It is the top that the cam rides against. And I never heard of them being machined, either.
 

1993_VG30E_GXE

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Kruse I can't do the buy the whole rebuilt engine thing because i'm kind of stuck, I've already bought 50% of the parts for the overhaul. Mechtech, is the Maxima one cam over bucket? My friend said it's another type that uses rocker arms or something. I'll take a pic when it's opened, hopefully by tommorow.
 
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