This is a long story.
2016 Nissan NV passenger 5.6L
$$$ is a bit short and already spent $ on a battery (old and needed replacement), alternator, and a mechanic’s confirmation on alternator diagnosis. And changed out transmission fluid.
Mechanic also diagnosed MAF sensor as bad from his scanner. We watched voltage go up snd down rapidly. He dod not use a volt meter though. I have seen nothing from observation of g/s on my scanner to indicate a bad MAF.
Nothing seems to happen until after vehicle has been idling in parking lot with AC on for a while. Temperatures are not excessive (in the 70’s). Coolant temp stays at 190 but intake temp reaches over 130.
Battery voltage with alternator going only gets to 14 initially but I watch it slowly fall to about 13 on the scanner at obd2 and ecu while idling. Going to remember to bring my volt meter next time.
Symptoms are stalling in parking lot (after idling) slight stall/not shifting down when trying to pass etc. in fact the shifting issues happens long after most everything has cooled to normal under the hood and I’m on my way home. Turning AC off seems to help. In fact turning car off and leaving hood open for a few minutes seems to help.
New alternator and battery didn’t change voltage issues. Possibly new alternator is also bad?
Final symptom and this really has me perplexed. I was finally able to watch my fuel trims just as i was getting a slight stall/no down shift at highway speed. —- all fuel trims disappear/go to zero for a few seconds.
So now I’m worried it’s the ECU. But i am still thinking it’s an electrical issue and maybe the ECU is not getting enough power?
Appreciate any thoughts, especially if you have seen this issue with fuel trims disappearing for a few seconds.
2016 Nissan NV passenger 5.6L
$$$ is a bit short and already spent $ on a battery (old and needed replacement), alternator, and a mechanic’s confirmation on alternator diagnosis. And changed out transmission fluid.
Mechanic also diagnosed MAF sensor as bad from his scanner. We watched voltage go up snd down rapidly. He dod not use a volt meter though. I have seen nothing from observation of g/s on my scanner to indicate a bad MAF.
Nothing seems to happen until after vehicle has been idling in parking lot with AC on for a while. Temperatures are not excessive (in the 70’s). Coolant temp stays at 190 but intake temp reaches over 130.
Battery voltage with alternator going only gets to 14 initially but I watch it slowly fall to about 13 on the scanner at obd2 and ecu while idling. Going to remember to bring my volt meter next time.
Symptoms are stalling in parking lot (after idling) slight stall/not shifting down when trying to pass etc. in fact the shifting issues happens long after most everything has cooled to normal under the hood and I’m on my way home. Turning AC off seems to help. In fact turning car off and leaving hood open for a few minutes seems to help.
New alternator and battery didn’t change voltage issues. Possibly new alternator is also bad?
Final symptom and this really has me perplexed. I was finally able to watch my fuel trims just as i was getting a slight stall/no down shift at highway speed. —- all fuel trims disappear/go to zero for a few seconds.
So now I’m worried it’s the ECU. But i am still thinking it’s an electrical issue and maybe the ECU is not getting enough power?
Appreciate any thoughts, especially if you have seen this issue with fuel trims disappearing for a few seconds.