Front end howl

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Well the family minivan has developed a howl in the front that sounds like a wheel bearing, but I don't want to just be throwing parts at it.

2009 Grand Caravan SE 3.3l, 105k

Starting at about 35 mph I get a howl/vibration in the front, sounds a lot like a set of mud tires. Sound seems to be primarily from the drivers side.

Swerving side to side does not make the sound increase or decrease in intensity.

No slop in either front tires.

Sound is only related to speed, acceleration, braking, nothing changes the intensity.

Starting the van up and putting it in drive with it on jack stands and tires removed (brake pads pushed off the rotors) makes me believe the sound isn't at the bearing but further inboard. I wasn't exactly crawling under the van to find the sound with it in this condition though. This is a flaky diagnosis however as the van wasn't exactly happy about running in this condition.

Wheel bearing? Inner CV joint? Transmission/differential bearing? Thoughts?
 
What i found works good to check wheel bearings is with tires off ground car in neutral grab two coils on the spring and try to compress with one hand and rotate tire as good as possible and any roughness will transfer to your hand it has never failed me in many years
 
Originally Posted By: vssjim
What i found works good to check wheel bearings is with tires off ground car in neutral grab two coils on the spring and try to compress with one hand and rotate tire as good as possible and any roughness will transfer to your hand it has never failed me in many years


THIS! Do this.
 
Buy a stethoscope or use a long screwdriver/prybar & put your ear on the handle. You'll hear the noise as you move the tip closer to the problem area
 
Sounds exactly how my car behaved when it's front bearings wore out. Another possibility is that the tires are getting loud as they age or possibly have belt damage. I'd bet on the bearings though, especially if it came on pretty suddenly. The diagnostic tips others suggested should give you the answer.
 
You can rule out a tire problem by rotating that tire to the back and see if the noise moves with it.
 
inner CV joint doesn't howl, the chance of a diff output shaft bearing failing are very slim. A hub is the most likely culprit.
Do both hubs on the same axle, a lot of people disagree but its the best thing to do if you are keeping it, use SKF or Timken. If its a flip use whatever and do only one.
Stay clear of no name or house brands, National was one of the best and is now Chinese and sold under the Moog brand it is in the same class as a house brand as is Raybestos pro.
 
Outside the warranty unfortunately.

Rotated tires front to back, no change in sound location.

It really does seem like a wheel bearing, but there is NO slop and I cannot feel any roughness. I don't want to be throwing parts at it.

Wheel bearing being pulled off in a few and I an check it that way hopefully.
 
Well, its bad. It could have been from me pounding it off, or bad before (likely) but now that it is remove there is absolutely roughness in the bearing.

The van is our daily family mobile, but I'm thinking it might be replaced within the next year or so. So spend $50 and get a cheap bearing, or $100 and get a Timken, decisions decisions...
 
It's only $50 extra. If you change you mind and keep it longer, it'll be a great $50 spent. If you don't, then it was only $50 loss.
 
That was basically my thought as well, hence why I ordered the timken.

Of course, the reviews on Amazon where the cheaper bearing fell apart and the wheels fell off helped sway the vote as well...
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
For $50 I'm not doing the labor twice even if they exchange the part under warranty.


Well said!

My sentiments exactly.

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
Originally Posted By: Trav
For $50 I'm not doing the labor twice even if they exchange the part under warranty.

Well said!

My sentiments exactly.

+1. Who wants to tear into a job twice because the part was lousy quality?

That's the primary reason I will -- in most cases -- pay a premium to use original parts where possible.

OEM: Done once, done right.
 
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