From OE to forged internals & supercharger

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Goal - To figure out which grade oil would be best to run for my application.

Background - As we all know, Ford spec'd the majority of Mustangs to 5W20 and has been much debate due to high temps of the 5.0, and we know that the Boss 302 (forged internals) & the supercharged GT500 spec 5W50.

Hardware:
  • Machined 3.7L OE block (build 1 in 2011) w/tigher tolerances
  • Manley forged pistons & rods, clevite racing bearings, total seal rings & chromoly wrist pins
  • OE forged crank, ground, balanced & cryo'd
  • Heads honed to match block
  • Procharger P1SC1 supercharger kit for the 3.7L

Enviornment:
  • Track days (road course)
  • Summer street (temps reaching over 100F, performance driven, higher RPMs than stock)
  • Winter street (temps reaching -50F, lightly driven - lower RPMs)

NOTE: I typically change out oil once every 2-6 weeks, depending on use, so swapping oils types between winter, summer and track is common for me. I don't mind changing oil grades depending on the application.


========================================

I've called around and asked around and here is the information I gathered:

Amsoil - ZROD 10W30 would be the best bet. For use on/off track. The additives here are perfect for my need, from what it looks like.

AllFordMustangs.com forum - two other guys running a very similar engine build (not completed yet) say they will be running 10W30 (Texas) & the other 5W20, 5W30 or 10W30.

I've gone through the Oil University read through and the 5W30, 10W30 or 5W40 seems like the most logical choice, but I really would like some knowledgeable feedback since I am fairly new to this.

A big Amsoil fan here. Prefer to run nothing but a fully synthetic filter & fully synthetic stock oil. Previously been running Dominator 5W20 before this build because the RP just didn't stack up to the high heats my car goes through with the road course hot lapping days (this engine likes it's revvs).


Thanks for reading guys!
 
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5w40 or 5w50 for summer track days. unless you have an oil cooler.

winter 0w30

summer.. ??5w30?

wouldnt run 0w20 or 5w20 in a super or turbocharged engine.

maybe if it was an extended cold spell.

summer driving doesnt really matter with a water cooled engine as long as the cooling is working well.
its how much hp are you using for how long that heats up the oil (ie autocrossing/road course etc.)

you dont want to heat the oil so much it thins enough to lose protection.

my 2 cents.
 
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Red-line 0w-20 for all seasons.

You mentioned tolerances being tighter. Now are you talking about clearances? If you are saying clearances are tighter,especially bearing clearances you do not want to go too thick. In fact if your clearances are tighter than stock ford clearances then you are wise to find the best possible 20 grade available on the planet or oil flow will be impeded and oil pressures will be very high.
Personally I'd go with red line because of their stout additive packages. If you don't have an oil cooler that would be first on my list of parts to install.
I have a friend in my mustang club with a 700hp Shelby cobra. He is using red line in a 20 grade,and this car runs 10s. His uoa are stellar and below universal averages however there is nothing average about his engine.
Again if your clearances are tighter than stock you are limited to how thick you can go before oil pressures are insane high.
I've bought a mech oil pressure gauge and an oil temp gauge for my 4v so I can have as much real time info as I can possibly have. You need oil volume,not high pressure. If there is a larger oil pan available for your 3.7 I suggest buying it.
 
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Redline 5w-20 normally and Redline 10w-30 for track days and such. Assuming you have tighter clearances than stock.
 
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Redline 5w-20 normally and Redline 10w-30 for track days and such. Assuming you have tighter clearances than stock.


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I know nothing about mechanics, lol, you tell me! (my builder simply said tighter tolerances will get me some more HP and that their machine shop is top notch in the nation)

As for an oil cooler - I have the parts to install it, but haven't installed it yet. It will help out, this I am sure. I've got a really cool idea for my oil cooler
wink.gif
Thermostat controlled, push-pull fan driven (for a little teaser).


Thank you everyone for your feedback! It really is helpful.
 
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Clearance: the acutal gap between parts. "tighter clearances" mean that things like piston-to-wall spaces are smaller so that less combustion gas is leaked, resulting in higher power. But "tighter clearances" in the bearing area are usually no better for horspower, just better for long life. Race engines are usually built with LOOSER bearing clearances so that there's less friction and more oil flow for cooling. Loosening up the bearing clearances is what would let you run a significantly heavier oil and still have good oil flow for cooling. Tighter bearing clearances and thicker oil would strangle flow and increase pressure, wasting horsepower and not helping anything.

Tolerance: how repeatable a measurement or part is. "Tight tolerances" mean that all the components are the SAME- whether the clearance is .0001" or 1 foot.

So again... gotta know exactly what the machinist was talking about. Clearance? (and if so where?) Or tolerance? The real RIGHT question would be to find out the bearing clearance and see how that differs from a stock 3.7. If its bigger go thicker on the oil. If its the same, find a really robust Xw20.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Clearance: the acutal gap between parts. "tighter clearances" mean that things like piston-to-wall spaces are smaller so that less combustion gas is leaked, resulting in higher power. But "tighter clearances" in the bearing area are usually no better for horspower, just better for long life. Race engines are usually built with LOOSER bearing clearances so that there's less friction and more oil flow for cooling. Loosening up the bearing clearances is what would let you run a significantly heavier oil and still have good oil flow for cooling. Tighter bearing clearances and thicker oil would strangle flow and increase pressure, wasting horsepower and not helping anything.

Tolerance: how repeatable a measurement or part is. "Tight tolerances" mean that all the components are the SAME- whether the clearance is .0001" or 1 foot.

So again... gotta know exactly what the machinist was talking about. Clearance? (and if so where?) Or tolerance? The real RIGHT question would be to find out the bearing clearance and see how that differs from a stock 3.7. If its bigger go thicker on the oil. If its the same, find a really robust Xw20.



Thanks for clearing that up for me. I just got off the phone with my shop and he said he would provide me with all the data when they are finished with it, so it should be a few weeks my guess. I am glad there are rule of thumbs and a science for figuring out exactly what I should run.

My builder said their machinist supplies them with all the exact specifications of the engine and what oils to run during the break in period and after. I will keep you guys up to date with the information as soon as it comes my way.

Everyone has contributed good information! I am really appreciative of it
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Clearance: the acutal gap between parts. "tighter clearances" mean that things like piston-to-wall spaces are smaller so that less combustion gas is leaked, resulting in higher power. But "tighter clearances" in the bearing area are usually no better for horspower, just better for long life. Race engines are usually built with LOOSER bearing clearances so that there's less friction and more oil flow for cooling. Loosening up the bearing clearances is what would let you run a significantly heavier oil and still have good oil flow for cooling. Tighter bearing clearances and thicker oil would strangle flow and increase pressure, wasting horsepower and not helping anything.

Tolerance: how repeatable a measurement or part is. "Tight tolerances" mean that all the components are the SAME- whether the clearance is .0001" or 1 foot.

So again... gotta know exactly what the machinist was talking about. Clearance? (and if so where?) Or tolerance? The real RIGHT question would be to find out the bearing clearance and see how that differs from a stock 3.7. If its bigger go thicker on the oil. If its the same, find a really robust Xw20.



Exactly.
Good post. I was trying to say this but not anywhere near as well
 
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