Frame damage? How bad is it?

sentra368

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Hello guys. Back on the forum after a few years of absence. Forgot my old username, so signed up for a new account.

I have this 1998 Nissan Pathfinder with 173,000 kms that came in contact with a concrete curb and wall on the passenger side. The damage, all on the passenger side:

(1) Bent tie rod.
(2) Busted CV axle
(3) Bent/twisted control arm.
(4) The passenger side door won't close properly.
(5) Photographed damage to frame/subframe?

I can't see any other damage on the frame, although my knowledge on vehicle frames is very limited. There are/were do leaks as a result of the accident.

Please have a look at the photos of the frame/subframe and provide some advice on the extent of the damage. Given the potential costs, is it worth fixing? For its age, the vehicle is in great condition and has been well maintained.
 

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Additional photos of the passenger side.
 

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I removed the tie rod and bought a CV axle. Once i removed the busted CV axle and tried to install the new one, i realized it's a half an inch "short," and can't be connected to the differential. That's because of the bend/damage to the lower control arm. Once i get a new lower control arm, i think i will be able to bolt the CV axle on.

However, i need opinions on the frame/subframe damage before i spend too much money on it. I was thinking that i could install a new tie rod, CV axle, and lower control arm and ball joint. That way, i can drive it around to body shops, if needed, and not be reliant on tows.
 
I would have a body shop look it over. Anyone answering just by looking at your pictures will not be able to give you the answer you need. Unfortunately, an insurance claim is going to total it out if you have collision coverage.. Because of the frame damage, I would not invest the money into it to fix it correctly. It's too old and not worth much. You can put the funds towards something newer, safer and more economical.
 
I’ve heard that they’re never the same after an incident like that. That said, the damage on the exterior looks like it wasn’t THAT bad. I have to wonder if a frame straightener would be able to get that in spec. The challenge is finding a place that will do that without the whole job which would be $$$. Maybe a maaco type place?

That said, lots of “ifs” and things to investigate. I didn’t zoom in on all the pics, but it seems like you could probably do a junkyard bumper and fender and be ok there. New suspension parts, probably needed bushings and whatnot anyway.

But you need a qualified person to inform in the frame and the connection points.
 
It is going to cost probably 2 hours labor (assuming you find a shop that will fool with it) to set it up an measure it, at that point be ready to let them pull it if it needs it.

This is not rocket science you can do some basic cross checking and datum measurements, you can do even better if you can find a frame dimension sheet for it online.

First step though is visual - moved bolts, cracked paint or rust.... obvious kinks and bends... body lines not attributable to bent sheet metal...

If you've already got the control arm put it on and see if you can driveway align it....
 
It's not the fender stopping the door from closing, is it? if it's not the fender, either the body is bent or the body and frame.

It's not the fender. The fender has been removed, and the door will not fully close, as you can see in the third photo, titled "8." There is a little gap at the top. You can see it in the photo.
 
Thank you all for your responses. It's a second vehicle that's not really needed, but i am willing to spend some money to keep it going, as it's otherwise in pretty good condition.

I have downloaded the factory service manual (FSM) and will have a look at the various dimensions referenced in Trav's post.

JHZR2, i have obtained most of the bumper parts from a good vehicle from a junkyard, so all set there. Still have to source a fender. I have bought new suspension and drivetrain parts. Will be placing an order for the lower control arm and ball joint shortly.

Finding a body shop willing to perform the frame work only may be a challenge, but i will try and see where it goes. That's why i want to get it running and take it to a few places. I have a few weeks off work and want to spend some time on the vehicle, in hopes of getting it going. If it works out, great. If it doesn't, i am not concerned about the money spent trying to fix it.

I will provide updates as i proceed further with this project. Hopefully, my experience will help someone else out.
 
Look at the hinges and hinge pillar.

No issues with the hinge pillar. Can't find any damage to the door because of the accident. I had suspected that hinges might be the problem, so get "new" ones from the junkyard and replaced them. After replacement, the door is almost how it was with the "old" hinges.

Removed the hinges myself at the junkyard. The door on the donor vehicle opened, closed, and aligned as it should. Got the striker from the same vehicle and replaced it on mine.
 
I had a 97. It really was a neat vehicle, well tuned as an on-road suv. It wasn’t great at towing (despite the rating), but it was a confident and competent vehicle. That whole front end/bumper system is basically hand-malleable metal. Mine had a fender bender with no fender, but significant bumper damage. I was able to re-shape the center, side pieces, and the soft metal mount that attaches the bumper to the frame, and reuse it all. Aesthetically, you’ll probably want a new fender, though if it’s just a beater, you can try your hand at gently heating and beating it out back into shape. It’s thin metal.

i can’t tell by eye if there’s frame damage. If it drives straight after new suspension parts, you may have your answer. I’ve DD’d worse. If the frame is bent, I doubt it’s by much. I will say, the frame in mine wasn’t particularly stout. It did not take 4x4 frame hits well at all - but I suspect yours is ok.
 
Thank you all for your responses. It's a second vehicle that's not really needed, but i am willing to spend some money to keep it going, as it's otherwise in pretty good condition.

I have downloaded the factory service manual (FSM) and will have a look at the various dimensions referenced in Trav's post.

JHZR2, i have obtained most of the bumper parts from a good vehicle from a junkyard, so all set there. Still have to source a fender. I have bought new suspension and drivetrain parts. Will be placing an order for the lower control arm and ball joint shortly.

Finding a body shop willing to perform the frame work only may be a challenge, but i will try and see where it goes. That's why i want to get it running and take it to a few places. I have a few weeks off work and want to spend some time on the vehicle, in hopes of getting it going. If it works out, great. If it doesn't, i am not concerned about the money spent trying to fix it.

I will provide updates as i proceed further with this project. Hopefully, my experience will help someone else out.

If the frame does need to be pulled, I've found that most body shops are more than happy to do it given enough incentive (aka CASH). Not necessarily a large amount, but enough to make it worth their while.

Years ago, my ex and I were rear ended while driving her Sport Trac. No major body damage, but the bumper and RH frame rail took a good tweak. I sourced a complete bumper assembly for $150, and had my go-to body shop pull the frame for $250. There was no extra charge to replace the bumper itself, since it had to be removed in order to pull the frame properly. $400 and it looked like brand new.
 
Wedge something like a piece of wood between the door and hinge pillar and close the door on it progressively harder, checking the figment each time. The hinge pillar is in slightly causing the door to stick out. You just need to massage things a bit to get it to close flush. A control arm, axle, maybe a tie rod and an alignment and drive it til it dies.
 
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