Fram PH3387A cut open....

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Wix too. The waves don't really bother me, it's how used up these usually look. Again, I don't think this one looks bad at all. For this OCI I don't think I'd have a problem running them, especially if they all looked like this when I cut them open.
 
Originally Posted By: Silver02ex
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
That one looks pretty good. Usually the filter media on the frams is about as wavy as the ocean. But that's not the case here.


Usually? The brand has nothing to do with it. I lost count how many Purolator that's been posted on here that has wavy media.


Happy to see someone else is also paying attention
 
Originally Posted By: elgallo
Quote:
the ADBV stuck to the "cap" of the can instead of the filter


Sounds like the ADBV valve is doing a great job, you do realize that this implies no oil can leak past the valve back into the engine? From your photos it was obvious that oil was being brought into the filter properly via the ADBV valve. Despite the constant complaints on the various boards regarding Fram filters, I still have no qualms with installing them in my vehicles and have done so without issue, putting over 400,000 miles on them, which is by no means a record, but certainly suggests that from an engineering stand point, they are doing their job at this end...



A noob that hasn't been brainwashed yet--WELCOME
 
Wavy media is usually caused by water absorbtion from condensation in the oil. It seems to be harmless, and happens to all brands that use any cellulose in the media.

In my opinion, Fram media is pretty good--among the better medias. It is the often lower quantity of media, (fewer pleats) and the general construction for the price that I don't like.
 
Originally Posted By: river_rat
Wavy media is usually caused by water absorbtion from condensation in the oil. It seems to be harmless, and happens to all brands that use any cellulose in the media.

In my opinion, Fram media is pretty good--among the better medias. It is the often lower quantity of media, (fewer pleats) and the general construction for the price that I don't like.






Now that is the first logical reason for not choosing a Fram I've seen in a longtime. Unlike the majority of newbies with 28 posts to their name and very little/if any experience actually under the hood of a car, or underneath it either, proclaim "Frams are OCOD because they do not have metal end caps" Doesn't provide any new information, just parrots what has been read on the board
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
Now that is the first logical reason for not choosing a Fram I've seen in a longtime.

Thanks. I try to have an actual reason for each opinion I post.
grin.gif

I know it won't wreck my engine, but I want best quality and value, so this is why I don't buy Frams:

L14670PH16.jpg





PS, I don't care about endcaps as long as they work.

These two filters cost about the same.
 
Actually the last part about the general construction for the price has long been the main point that the majority of posters, including myself, have long made about the orange can and all the engineeeered media filters. Nothing new there imo.

Why would I pay same or even more for a filter using a cheaper endcap construction, when I can get the same end cap construction used in the great majority of high end filters canister filters? Answer, I wouldn't. I figure the quality high end oil filter manufacturers must know something about what is required to make a solid and durable oil filter. I'll stick with their general construction idea, metal end caps being a main feature, and why not for the same or less money.

As for the counter no end cap filter argument, the recent oil filter rec thread adds evidence to the limited filtering efficiency of that type filter. I wouldn't label that a high end filter.

As for the OP's filter, looks like it held up/did it's job for that oci.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
As for the counter no end cap filter argument, the recent oil filter rec thread adds evidence to the limited filtering efficiency of that type filter.

I don't think that was an endcap issue. I've used and cut those before, and the ends were always sealed. The media itself, however is quite porous by my standards. Lots of "pinholes."
 
I wasn't specifically intending to say that the glue at the end of the pleat had failed. Rather, that the contention has been that since some filters like the Toyota/Denso oem have no endcaps, having metal ones doesn't matter.

Perhaps what the other thread is showing is that since the media isn't very efficient to begin with, that an endcap on that design doesn't matter either. If there is a filter of that design that is as efficient as high end metal endcap filters then perhaps it could be said that the end cap doesn't matter. But I haven't seen that, as also shown in the other thread, so the contention of them being as good doesn't work for me.
 
I guess I should explain my "I don't care about endcaps as long as they work" statement.
I prefer metal caps in the filters I've seen, because of lousy seals around the center tube, but if there (ever) are any other materials that work as well as metal, then they will be fine with me. To me, non-metallic is mostly a sign of cost cutting, not that they can't work well if done right.
 
I use to use Fram oil filters from the seventies till early nineties. Never had an engine failure but in some engines the cold start noise was painful needless to say. For a few pennies more I got a Motorcraft oil filter that was better built and had better ADBV control which stopped the cold start noise. As said before they most likely will not kill your engine but there are better oil filters out there for a comparable or less price.

Whimsey
 
As a test, I've installed a NOS Fram Wear-guard from 1986 on my Granada. I got a case of them free with a car I bought a long time ago. In cleaning out my basement, I found that I still had 2 left from 1986 and 1 left from 1978. I'm saving the '78 filter as memorabilia. I used the newest vehicles listed on the box as a guide to actual age.
 
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