Fram Endurance FE4967 and HPL Premium Plus 0w-16

That was an interesting one because it has the mesh, it is not magnetic( wasn’t magnetic before, was stainless) and the media was sort of loosely bonded. The close up of the media shows mostly free fiber strands, much more open than usually seen. I notice that when the media is packed with resin, on other filters, it’s a bit questionable. Will it flow well enough not to cause bypass?
He might have meant the 4386 filter size is a bigger version. The 3600 is wider and a much bigger filter.
 
The leaf spring is pretty ruffled on the one side and might be leaky.

This filter doesn't have much media, and there aren't many louvres in the centre core either. I'd use a larger filter. The FE7317 has 75% more media, and the 4386 should be about the same. I'd sooner do 2 or 3 OCIs with a larger filter than a single OCI with this tiny filter.
 
HPL has this nice reddish color. Looks like 5000 miles didn't do a thing to it lol.

Screenshot_20250704_105103_YouTube.webp
 
cptbarkey said:
You could safely run that to 10k or push it to 15k.
Click to expand...
Filution dilution sucks. That oil probanly has 4% fuel in it, too risky to push it to 10k miles. I am watching the 4th of July HPL sale go by and I can't do anything about it. $25 flat shipping fee even if I order 10 × 12 quart cases. Four OCI a year would have made my life so easy.
 
Fair enough said:
That was an interesting one because it has the mesh, it is not magnetic( wasn’t magnetic before, was stainless) and the media was sort of loosely bonded.
Click to expand...
All Endurances have backed media. WCW clearly shows it's magnetic in this case. BTW, stainless steel can still have a level of magnetism depending on the exact alloy mix.
 
This one was with Pennzoil 0w16 and Toyota filter. No difference with HPL which gives me a lot of relief. It means my engine is pretty clean.

 
JohnnyJohnson said:
With no end plates how do they get all of the oil to go through the media?
Click to expand...
On the Toyota filter, it does seem like some unfiltered oil would go through the gap between the filter media and the centre core. The core seems to slide out pretty easily, so I doubt it seals perfectly on the bottom side. On the top, it looks to be sealed well enough by the leaf spring.
 
^^^ To add, when WCW initially takes the filter apart, you can see the center tube is flush to the end cap on the leaf spring side, so the leaf spring is sitting all the way down and sealing on the end cap. The base plate end of the center tube has a rounded edge, and sticks out from the media element and seals down inside the groove in the ADBV.

Center tube flush on the leaf spring side.
1751745114695.webp


Center tube edge is rounded on the base plate side to seal in the ADBV groove.
1751745152440.webp
 
ZeeOSix said:
^^^ To add, when WCW initially takes the filter apart, you can see the center tube is flush to the end cap on the leaf spring side, so the leaf spring is sitting all the way down and sealing on the end cap. The base plate end of the center tube has a rounded edge, and sticks out from the media element and seals down inside the groove in the ADBV.

Center tube flush on the leaf spring side.
View attachment 288122

Center tube edge is rounded on the base plate side to seal in the ADBV groove.
View attachment 288123
Click to expand...
It is supposed to be flush or a little recessed is better, but always isn’t on some recent examples I have cut. Just a little bit too long. If it is flush, no compression against the resin either. The resin can be rough too, I have seen it, which gives a light leak. The resin is hard, not very compressible. Not light through the resin, a gap. I still use them as have quite a few. Even after cutting open about four new ones seem to have a lot of them. It’s like maybe there are more after I cut some open.
So it seems nearly every brand can have a defect to worry about.
 
Fair enough said:
It is supposed to be flush or a little recessed is better, but always isn’t on some recent examples I have cut. Just a little bit too long. If it is flush, no compression against the resin either.
Click to expand...
You would have to inspect it without cutting the filter open, like @Glenda W. did on the Endurance by cutting inspection windows in the assembled filter. On the Toyota filter, the base end of the center tube goes against the flexible rubber ADBV, so when the filter guts are all held tight by the leaf spring, then the leaf spring should be seated down on the end cap "resin ring".

Fair enough said:
The resin can be rough too, I have seen it, which gives a light leak. The resin is hard, not very compressible. Not light through the resin, a gap. I still use them as have quite a few. Even after cutting open about four new ones seem to have a lot of them. It’s like maybe there are more after I cut some open.
So it seems nearly every brand can have a defect to worry about.
Click to expand...
Yeah, even if the leaf spring is seated well, we all know by now that there may not be a perfect seal for various reasons as seen many times now. The only filter with a leaf spring that seemed to be designed right was the OG Ultra with the fiber seal on the end cap, and the leaf spring was stamped smooth and also fit tight on the ID of the fiber gasket to add another layer of sealing.

Could be one factor on why the Toyota filters are so inefficient is that they are internal leakers.
 
First and last time I used Fram Endurance. Not very impressive, I'm going back to Toyota permanently.
Toyota is less than half the price. Pennzoil Ultra 0w20 and Toyota filter going forward
 
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