Ford ignition lock cylinders

[Falcon_LS]

The black plastic cap on the lock cylinder keeps coming off on my Grand Marquis, as the tabs are broken, and it's annoying the living daylights out of me. It appears the cap is not sold separately, and I need to replace the lock cylinder assembly - part number 1L3Z-11582-A.

For anyone in the know, does the lock cylinder set come with a key or do I need a key matching service? If it's the latter, it would be much more convenient than either having two separate keys, or replace the lock cylinder on the driver's door and trunk. Then, of course, there's the hassle of getting a new PATS key programmed. Thanks!

 

[charbaby]

I found this(says repair kit) but, can't answer your other questions pretaining to the key and programing. Hope this helps!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Ford-Ignitio...d62&vxp=mtr

 

[punisher]

I looked at the key online and it looks like the standard double sided FoMoCo key.

Unless things have changed........ the door locks and the ignition key share a "common cut". It is the center cut of the key. When you hit the parts counter you will have a choice of different ignition cylinder/key combos. The counterperson will cut the remaining notches to fit your door. Or you can go and get a new doorlock and ignition cylinder set and replace them all.

PATS keys- I reprogrammed only a handful. I do not know the exact procedure when replacing a cylinder as switching the ignition to "off" , and swapping out the cylinder is not an option. You have to leave the key in the "on" position to press in the release pin to swap cylinders and I don't think the PATS will reinitialize and program the new key automatically.

bdcardinal will have all the answers as he is the Ford counterman. Hopefully he will see this thread.

 

[TFB1]

If the cylinder is replaced with one using a non PATs key you can mount the original PATs key inside the column so system will still allow the car to start... OR you can use same year CVPI PCM and eliminate PATs completely, exactly what I did on my '98 MGM...

Also there are remote start modules that can be added that hold a orig key so system "thinks" it's being started with that key... Of course in this case the new key must be a non-PATs type...

Other than the above, plan on the dealer or maybe a locksmith(dunno if they have that capability in your area), reprogramming the PCM for you...

One thought(and that's all it is)...

If you have two PATs keys its possible to program a third & fourth... Possibly if you have a std key that fits the current ign lock you could do the programming using the non PATs key as the third/fourth key, while holding the new key(s) near the lock cylinder... If it starts using the std key while holding the new key(s) near the cylinder, then it programmed and you can swap to the new cylinder...

 

[Colt45ws]

Originally Posted By: TFB1
If the cylinder is replaced with one using a non PATs key you can mount the original PATs key inside the column so system will still allow the car to start... OR you can use same year CVPI PCM and eliminate PATs completely, exactly what I did on my '98 MGM...

Also there are remote start modules that can be added that hold a orig key so system "thinks" it's being started with that key... Of course in this case the new key must be a non-PATs type...

Other than the above, plan on the dealer or maybe a locksmith(dunno if they have that capability in your area), reprogramming the PCM for you...

One thought(and that's all it is)...

If you have two PATs keys its possible to program a third & fourth... Possibly if you have a std key that fits the current ign lock you could do the programming using the non PATs key as the third/fourth key, while holding the new key(s) near the lock cylinder... If it starts using the std key while holding the new key(s) near the cylinder, then it programmed and you can swap to the new cylinder...




On that last one, Ive found wrapping the head of the key in aluminium foil works very well at disrupting the signaling.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: Colt45ws

On that last one, Ive found wrapping the head of the key in aluminium foil works very well at disrupting the signaling.


Sounds like a plan...

Do to the small amount of time allowed for programming, have someone wrap the first key while the second key is inserted, then reinsert first as the non-PATs key... Might just work...

 

[bdcardinal]

You have to assemble that cylinder to your existing keys. I sell a bunch of these along with the ones for Foci.

 

[bdcardinal]

Originally Posted By: punisher
I looked at the key online and it looks like the standard double sided FoMoCo key.

Unless things have changed........ the door locks and the ignition key share a "common cut". It is the center cut of the key. When you hit the parts counter you will have a choice of different ignition cylinder/key combos. The counterperson will cut the remaining notches to fit your door. Or you can go and get a new doorlock and ignition cylinder set and replace them all.

PATS keys- I reprogrammed only a handful. I do not know the exact procedure when replacing a cylinder as switching the ignition to "off" , and swapping out the cylinder is not an option. You have to leave the key in the "on" position to press in the release pin to swap cylinders and I don't think the PATS will reinitialize and program the new key automatically.

bdcardinal will have all the answers as he is the Ford counterman. Hopefully he will see this thread.


Ford hasn't used 10 cut in a long time. Everything is now 8 cut, Tibbe or laser cut.

 

[djb]

That picture shows a replacement cylinder that is unkeyed. It has no wafers or springs.

You remove the wafers and springs from you existing lock cylinder and transfer them over to the new cylinder.

The center part is called a 'plug'. The flat parts that rub against the key are 'wafers' (sometimes called 'pins' or 'tumblers', but the specific name is 'wafers'). Each wafer is loaded up by a tiny coil spring. When the correct key is inserted, the wafers line up exactly with the outside of the plug. With the wrong key they stick out a bit on one side or the other.

Your problem could likely be fixed without actually playing with the wafers. With the correct key inserted, the original plug assembly can be removed from the old cylinder and inserted into the new. As long as you leave the key in place, the spring-loaded wafers won't pop out.

If you are going to move the wafers to the new plug, put the whole assembly in a plastic bag before removing the key. That will reduce the chance of losing the tiny springs.