If the OP is looking at a $3000 Taurus, an 08-09 Accord or Camry is going to be out of the price range. The taurus are good, solid but not great, cars. I'd buy one and this particular example looks pretty good. I wouldn't worry much about the CEL for the small evap leak. Or the weeping gaskets. If you use a quart every 3-5,000 that's under $10 in oil a year.
Ford Guys! '04 Taurus-Duratec 30 Nice?Trusty? $3k
- Thread starter SumpChump
- Start date
- Status
For $3k not much risk it if runs well, stops, shifts well and doesn't reek. $3k is not much money to "risk" to me.
If it moves you can get at least 1/2 back if it turns out to be a dud.
If it moves you can get at least 1/2 back if it turns out to be a dud.
Last edited:
I have had 3 of these. 30,000 mile transmission fluid changes, Mercon V. The engines are very robust, Duratec. The cars are also tough. I have seen people wreck these things bad and walk away.They will drip a little oil. I made sure all the pan bolts were snug and lived with it.
Maybe offer $2k? A fellow at work got a very similar one with about $1000-1200(at a shop) in minor work(brakes all round, strut or two, CV boots) needing to be done for scrap price... He's been driving it for a couple years now though with no major issues though.
Originally Posted By: itguy08
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Is there a VIN element way to determine if the transmission is the better "N" series transmission?
According to Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AXOD_transmission
All Duratecs got the AX4N.
That's goooood! If I read into it correctly. Thanks!
SO this Taurus has good looking fluids, the stronger of the engines offered, less chances of coolant rust clumps because of that, and the stronger of the two transmissions the "N" series.
I guess other than the sight brake pulse and the gas cap light... this is about the strongest Taurus I will find in the dead of winter.
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Is there a VIN element way to determine if the transmission is the better "N" series transmission?
According to Wikipedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AXOD_transmission
All Duratecs got the AX4N.
That's goooood! If I read into it correctly. Thanks!
SO this Taurus has good looking fluids, the stronger of the engines offered, less chances of coolant rust clumps because of that, and the stronger of the two transmissions the "N" series.
I guess other than the sight brake pulse and the gas cap light... this is about the strongest Taurus I will find in the dead of winter.
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
I believe 2003+ had the weaker spline on the transmission, but it's still a [censored] shoot, there are those out there that still last 200k plus even with the weaker spline. The AX4N was the better transmission, N meant it was a non synchronous transmission which meant you could jump gears from 1-3 or 3rd to 1st. The cloudy coolant tank is nothing, just the way the plastic is, probably dirt on the tank, I've seen much worse.
I was impressed by how clean looking the coolant was, no concern about the cloudy tank plastic.
Is there a VIN element way to determine if the transmission is the better "N" series transmission?
Duratec is automatically the AX4N, on the Vulcan it can be either and then you just count the bolts on the transmission. It's the KYB or Moog struts that are $75-$85.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
I believe 2003+ had the weaker spline on the transmission, but it's still a [censored] shoot, there are those out there that still last 200k plus even with the weaker spline. The AX4N was the better transmission, N meant it was a non synchronous transmission which meant you could jump gears from 1-3 or 3rd to 1st. The cloudy coolant tank is nothing, just the way the plastic is, probably dirt on the tank, I've seen much worse.
I was impressed by how clean looking the coolant was, no concern about the cloudy tank plastic.
Is there a VIN element way to determine if the transmission is the better "N" series transmission?
Duratec is automatically the AX4N, on the Vulcan it can be either and then you just count the bolts on the transmission. It's the KYB or Moog struts that are $75-$85.
Brake pulse. I had a friend turn my rotors. He said they were just a little out and it cured the problem. Never came back.
I used Valvoline MaxLife 5w20.
I used Valvoline MaxLife 5w20.
Brake pulse could also be just tires that stood sittig for a few months. Give a 100 miles rund and theyd round out pretty well, and no pulses anymore. It happened to me a few times and was the tire flattened a little and the weight shifting msde it noticeable, while running I couldnt feel any bumps.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
I believe 2003+ had the weaker spline on the transmission, but it's still a [censored] shoot, there are those out there that still last 200k plus even with the weaker spline. The AX4N was the better transmission, N meant it was a non synchronous transmission which meant you could jump gears from 1-3 or 3rd to 1st. The cloudy coolant tank is nothing, just the way the plastic is, probably dirt on the tank, I've seen much worse.
I was impressed by how clean looking the coolant was, no concern about the cloudy tank plastic.
Is there a VIN element way to determine if the transmission is the better "N" series transmission?
Duratec is automatically the AX4N, on the Vulcan it can be either and then you just count the bolts on the transmission. It's the KYB or Moog struts that are $75-$85.
Exactly, mine is a vulcan, so the S intead of N...
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
I believe 2003+ had the weaker spline on the transmission, but it's still a [censored] shoot, there are those out there that still last 200k plus even with the weaker spline. The AX4N was the better transmission, N meant it was a non synchronous transmission which meant you could jump gears from 1-3 or 3rd to 1st. The cloudy coolant tank is nothing, just the way the plastic is, probably dirt on the tank, I've seen much worse.
I was impressed by how clean looking the coolant was, no concern about the cloudy tank plastic.
Is there a VIN element way to determine if the transmission is the better "N" series transmission?
Duratec is automatically the AX4N, on the Vulcan it can be either and then you just count the bolts on the transmission. It's the KYB or Moog struts that are $75-$85.
Exactly, mine is a vulcan, so the S intead of N...
09 Accord / Camry cost way more than a 4th Gen Taurus. I traded my 2001 in for $2500 in mint condition (no even a scratch or ding, and under the hood is show room condition with no leak), bargained up from $2000.
09 Camcord would be likely around $9k still at today's money.
09 Camcord would be likely around $9k still at today's money.
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
Brake pulse. I had a friend turn my rotors. He said they were just a little out and it cured the problem. Never came back.
I used Valvoline MaxLife 5w20.
My brake pulse was a bad rotor (non uniform cast density?), it comes back even after turning. 2 new Chinese rotors fixed that.
Brake pulse. I had a friend turn my rotors. He said they were just a little out and it cured the problem. Never came back.
I used Valvoline MaxLife 5w20.
My brake pulse was a bad rotor (non uniform cast density?), it comes back even after turning. 2 new Chinese rotors fixed that.
I think it will fit your needs well. All used cars are a gamble and that looks like the best one you've posted so far.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I think it will fit your needs well. All used cars are a gamble and that looks like the best one you've posted so far.
I've got the ')* Scion that I will be looking at tomorrow likely and posting about for your curiosity.
2008 131k $4950 asking price
https://lacrosse.craigslist.org/cto/5388097187.html
It's be a $2000 premium for a step up to a Toyota and four years newer vehicle. Hmmm.
I think it will fit your needs well. All used cars are a gamble and that looks like the best one you've posted so far.
I've got the ')* Scion that I will be looking at tomorrow likely and posting about for your curiosity.
2008 131k $4950 asking price
https://lacrosse.craigslist.org/cto/5388097187.html
It's be a $2000 premium for a step up to a Toyota and four years newer vehicle. Hmmm.
Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
Originally Posted By: stchman
To the OP:
Those older Ford Tauruses are POS.
I don't know what your budget is, but get a 08-09 Accord or Camry.
A couple threads ago it was $4k. No Camry's or Accord's for that money unless they are really trashed in those years.
My aunt has an 06 Taurus and it is an incredible POS. Thing leaks water from most seals during rain, I've heard baby rattles that were quieter, burns oil, just a generally unpleasant car. It is the OP's money, but I would not give over $1500 for that thing, old Ford cars are huge junkers.
KBB has the 2004 Taurus SES with 145K at $2200 private party and ~$1000 trade in. My ~$1500 offer appears to be on the money.
Originally Posted By: stchman
To the OP:
Those older Ford Tauruses are POS.
I don't know what your budget is, but get a 08-09 Accord or Camry.
A couple threads ago it was $4k. No Camry's or Accord's for that money unless they are really trashed in those years.
My aunt has an 06 Taurus and it is an incredible POS. Thing leaks water from most seals during rain, I've heard baby rattles that were quieter, burns oil, just a generally unpleasant car. It is the OP's money, but I would not give over $1500 for that thing, old Ford cars are huge junkers.
KBB has the 2004 Taurus SES with 145K at $2200 private party and ~$1000 trade in. My ~$1500 offer appears to be on the money.
Over the years, we've had three CVPIs and a whole bunch of Tauruses in our fleet at work.
The Tauruses held up better than did the CVPIs and were always generally fine up to around 200K.
Transaxle?
Good for something around 200K.
Heater core?
Backflush every fall, no further problems.
Exciting?
NO!
Roomy?
NO!
Good ride?
NO!
Good handling?
NO!
Good fuel economy?
NO!
Reliable and durable?
YEP!
Cheap these days?
Without a doubt. I doubt that you'll find a better cheap car.
Most Hondas or Toyotas in the price range you're considering won't be worth a set of tags.
There is also a huge base of experience in the Taurus as well as yards full of replacement parts.
The Tauruses held up better than did the CVPIs and were always generally fine up to around 200K.
Transaxle?
Good for something around 200K.
Heater core?
Backflush every fall, no further problems.
Exciting?
NO!
Roomy?
NO!
Good ride?
NO!
Good handling?
NO!
Good fuel economy?
NO!
Reliable and durable?
YEP!
Cheap these days?
Without a doubt. I doubt that you'll find a better cheap car.
Most Hondas or Toyotas in the price range you're considering won't be worth a set of tags.
There is also a huge base of experience in the Taurus as well as yards full of replacement parts.
It looks like a nice car, especially if they have maintenance records.
Clogged heater cores in a Vulcan? Never heard of that.
Read through this thread and I guess I learned something.
It is amazing how much verbal abuse these cars get, especially from people who never have owned one.
After actually owning one for 12 years and 275K, I never experienced many of these complaints that I have heard about.
However, I actually did my homework, discovered potential problematic areas, and maintained the vehicle in such a manner that countered those issues. The one I had is still going strong with its second owner at over 300K on the original engine and transmission.
Is Taurus the perfect vehicle? No, but one could do a lot worse.
Clogged heater cores in a Vulcan? Never heard of that.
Read through this thread and I guess I learned something.
It is amazing how much verbal abuse these cars get, especially from people who never have owned one.
After actually owning one for 12 years and 275K, I never experienced many of these complaints that I have heard about.
However, I actually did my homework, discovered potential problematic areas, and maintained the vehicle in such a manner that countered those issues. The one I had is still going strong with its second owner at over 300K on the original engine and transmission.
Is Taurus the perfect vehicle? No, but one could do a lot worse.
IMO, I will get a Camry.
In the same area CL, there are at least 2-3 Camry 2004-2005-2006 with similar mileage for about the same price.
I know of a 2000 Camry that is still running at 400K miles.
No trans issues to worry about.
Change the transmission fluid every 100K miles or so.
In the same area CL, there are at least 2-3 Camry 2004-2005-2006 with similar mileage for about the same price.
I know of a 2000 Camry that is still running at 400K miles.
No trans issues to worry about.
Change the transmission fluid every 100K miles or so.
Last edited:
I have owned 7 Tauruses, all pretty reliable. Number one thing to check is rusty rocker panels. I currently own one (2005) that looks and drives very well, but the rocker panel behind the plastic cover is gone on the drivers side rear. I carry a small floor jack in case there is a flat on that side because the jack point is missing. Next check the brake lines. Not as bad as Chevrolet pick-ups but very prone to rust.
By the way, with the vulcan v6 there is no need to remove the intake manifold to change the rear spark plugs. Removing the plastic cover on the passenger side firewall provides access. Not great, but better than many cars.
By the way, with the vulcan v6 there is no need to remove the intake manifold to change the rear spark plugs. Removing the plastic cover on the passenger side firewall provides access. Not great, but better than many cars.
Possibly one of the worst cars built.if the trans quits do you feel like dumping another $2500 in it for a rebuilt trans?
- Status
