Fogging Spray & Small Engine Storage?

[Thorn]

I have been following a spirited debate on an ice fishing site that I frequent regarding the proper preparation of ice auger engines for long-term storage. Most people there seem to be fairly knowledgable, but they disagree on the best methods to prep the engines (imagine that).

I bought my first power auger (Jiffy) this year, and it's time to put it away until next year. I don't have much experience with small engines, so I'll take any good advice I can get.

The engine is a 2-cycle 49cc 2 h.p. Tecumseh. Some guys on the ice fishing site recommend draining all of the gas, and others recommend adding Stabil and storing with a full tank. Many recommend the use of Fogging Spray, but I have never used it.

Any suggestions?

 

[Bror Jace]

I like the idea of fogging the engine as that puts a fine coat of oil throughout the intake, carb, etc ...

I have removed the spark plug, taken a teaspoon of light oil (2-stroke oil, MMO, etc ...) and dumped it into the hole. Then I pull the engine over (slowly) a couple times.

The only engine we actually fog is our boat which has a Mercruiser 5.0L inboard V8.

I'm not sure if Stabil is the best stuff to use in a 2-stroke. Doesn't it have isopropyl alcohol in it?

--- Bror Jace

 

[Curious Kid]

I've been using fuel stabilizer in the tanks of all my yard equipment, both 2 & 4-stroke, for years without any problems. I even enlightened my neighbor on the use of stabilizer because when she'd go to put the snowblower up for the season, she'd just leave the engine running till it ran out of gas. Without a load, the engine would run a rather loooong time. She's had no problems since either.

If you feel compelled, oil the cylinder if you want, but I've figured it a bit of a hassel and wearing on the ignition cable having to move things around.

 

[tmorris1]

I don't think it really matters with these engines since they don't have a float bowl carb. The thing that you have to worry about is the rubber diaphram in the carb dry rotting or cracking. They are easy and cheap to replace, so it isn't that big of a deal. I use Seafoam as a stabilizer and cleaner. I usually run the tank (with Seafoam) just about dry and shut it down. When it cools down I pull the plug and spray some fogging oil or 2 stroke oil into the cylinder and pull it over a few times and put the plug back in. A full tank of gas is important with a metal tank to keep it from rusting, but these augers have plastic tanks, so you don't have to worry about it.

 

[Hokiefyd]

I'm with the fuel stabilizer folks, although as tmorris1 said, there may not be that much of an effect since the carburetor doesn't have a bowl. I still like to keep the fuel system as full of fuel as I can, to try to stave off varnish buildup. I keep the fuel system plumb full of fuel over the winter, with the proper amount of fuel stabilizer. In fact, I just run fuel stabilizer year-round. I mix it in like I do 2-cycle oil. Niether of my 4-stroke Honda engines care, nor does my 2-stroke Weed Eater care. They're relatively easy to start in the spring after the (short NC) winter.

 

[UNC038]

On a 2-stroke just drain the gas completly and put it away. You can add some oil via the spark plug but it's not necessary (there's oil in the gas).

On a 4-stroke, you can add Stabil or equivalent if you desire but draining gas is usually OK. I always add oil to piston top to protect cylinder especially something like a snow blower where you never know how long it will be next time you'll use the equipment. I have never used Stabil and never had any issues with any of my equipment.

 

[wileyE]

At fuel/oil ratios greater than 50:1 there won't be enough oil left in the lower end for long storage periods. Richer mixes under 50:1 will most likely leave enough oil. exactly 50:1 ? your taking a chance IMO. Pouring oil down the plug hole will not lube the lower crank and rod bearings, the things that you don't want to rust. I'd fog it or throw some extra oil in the fuel the last time you run it. Plastic fuel tanks I drain, metal ones I leave full or they tend to rust or corrode more, at least around here. With oil in the fuel no real need for stabil.

 

[Thorn]

Thanks to all of you for the sound advice. Believe it or not, both the auger manufacturer and Tecumseh recommend running these augers at 24:1 with dino only, and they're pretty darn adamant about it.

I've seen others swear by using synthetic at up to 100:1, but synthetic voids the warranty. I'll probably stay at 24:1 at least until the warranty expires.

So far, I've drained the stabilized gas, ran the engine dry, put some oil in the plug hole and pulled it over a few times. I didn't have any fogging spray handy when I had the extra time to work on the auger. Maybe next year....