Flushed the Power Steering fluid!

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I flushed the P/S fluid from the electro-hydraulic system in my Mazda3 yesterday. I used Castrol Import Vehicle ATF in it; this is what I will eventually use in the auto trans. The system took 3/4 of a quart which surprised me; it was more than I thought. The steering is a bit lighter now but feels good. The car has 25K on it and this was the first flush.

It seems like many people never change the P/S fluid, but I found it to be a fairly easy task. This should help extend the life of the P/S pump and rack, right?
 
On the Mazda3, it has a small reservoir that is connected by a hose to the electric pump.

The green arrow points to the reservoir:
EngineBay.jpg
 
Yeah, I used Castrol IMV ATF in my daughters 06 Mazda 3, 2.0L. Steering is easy. Used it in the auto transmission too, seems fine!
 
Smart move flushing the PS system, the job isn't bad at all. I used a turkey baster, and seem to always be dealing with clean fluid. I find the trick is not to leave the fluid in long enough to go bad. A 25,000 mile to 30,000 mile interval should be fine.
 
Can you detail how you flushed the system, I need to do it on my Versa soon and ive got the same setup as the mazda3. Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: FirstNissan
Can you detail how you flushed the system, I need to do it on my Versa soon and ive got the same setup as the mazda3. Thanks!


I'm pretty sure that your Versa does not use power steering fluid. There is an electric motor on the steering column that does all the work. No hydraulics at all.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
25K is a bit early for a flush, but this is BITOG so its never too soon...


I do mine every 30k. Costs 40 bucks and a half hour. Why not? Fresh fluid cant ever hurt is how i feel. Same with the transmission. Cost not a lot compared to the possibility of not being lubbed and needing a rebuild.
 
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
25K is a bit early for a flush, but this is BITOG so its never too soon...

Not for the first flush. It gets rid of the break-in debris.
 
Originally Posted By: FirstNissan
Can you detail how you flushed the system, I need to do it on my Versa soon and ive got the same setup as the mazda3. Thanks!


A Google search shows that the Versa uses an electric motor to turn the steering rack no hydraulics involved.

The way I flushed the system was to lift the car up on jack stands (so the wheels are free to move), undue the low pressure (return) line to the rack, let the fluid from the reservoir drain, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock with the car OFF to pump the fluid out of the rack. Then, after fluid is no longer coming out, reconnect the low pressure line, fill the reservoir and start the car, immediately begin filling the reservoir as it will begin to pump fluid to the empty rack (use a helper to fill).

Once the fluid settles and stops draining, begin to turn the wheel (car turned on) from lock to lock to purge air from the system. This is easiest done with a helper to top the system up as air bubble will emerge.

After you are satisfied with the amount of air bleed, take it for a drive to put load on the system to purge any air left. I noticed the first time I drove the car, more air was purge while under load.
That's it your P/S flush is complete. I did this while I was changing oil since I was under the car anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: CharlieJ
Originally Posted By: FirstNissan
Can you detail how you flushed the system, I need to do it on my Versa soon and ive got the same setup as the mazda3. Thanks!


A Google search shows that the Versa uses an electric motor to turn the steering rack no hydraulics involved.

The way I flushed the system was to lift the car up on jack stands (so the wheels are free to move), undue the low pressure (return) line to the rack, let the fluid from the reservoir drain, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock with the car OFF to pump the fluid out of the rack. Then, after fluid is no longer coming out, reconnect the low pressure line, fill the reservoir and start the car, immediately begin filling the reservoir as it will begin to pump fluid to the empty rack (use a helper to fill).

Once the fluid settles and stops draining, begin to turn the wheel (car turned on) from lock to lock to purge air from the system. This is easiest done with a helper to top the system up as air bubble will emerge.

After you are satisfied with the amount of air bleed, take it for a drive to put load on the system to purge any air left. I noticed the first time I drove the car, more air was purge while under load.
That's it your P/S flush is complete. I did this while I was changing oil since I was under the car anyway.


The way i do it, is similar but i feel its safer and takes less time. In my case i use 2liters of P/S.

But, i jack my front end up like you. With the wheels free. Undo the return hose from the reservoir. Drop it in an oil pan quickly at the same time i plug the 'grommet' the return hose attaches to with the corner of a plastic baggy and a zip tie.

I fill the reservoir up up with fluid. I turn my key to ACC [unlocking the wheel]. Turn the wheel at full lock a few times until the reservoir is low. I keep an eye on it as running it dry is hard on the pump as well as lets air into the system. I repeat until i've gone through most of the 2 liters. Keeping about 1/4 liter for 'just in case' and store it in my trunk.

Obviously every car is different as far as PS fluid amount and stuff like that.

But this is how i do My VW, my mom's VW, my girlfriends Civic, and my brothers F250 [this takes more fluid].

The reason i know that 1.75/2 liters is enough is because the first time i changed the P/S on these vehicles thats how much i had to push through the system until the fluid started coming out new looking; rather than burnt or old looking.
 
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