Fluid change to replenish vs removing contaminants

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A lot of the old axioms about changing fluids was to get rid of contaminants that build up in the fluids and don't necessarily get filtered out. This would include metal shavings or soot in motor oil, metal shavings in transmissions, or basically anything that ends up in power steering fluid such as wear metals or whatever flakes off the hoses. Coolant usually remains in the block, even with a block drain plug. And of course there's water absorbed by brake fluid.

Of course that runs counter to many the modern fluids that run longer with longer change intervals or where they aren't specified at all. Some transmissions specify a "lifetime" fluid. However, every automatic transmission I've ever heard of leaves most of the fluid in the torque converter after a simple drain, and some owners are almost offended that isn't not at least 80% of the old fluid drained. A lot of people just do partial changes for power steering fluid because of the possibility of introducing air in the system that takes forever to bleed out. DIY coolant drains are partial. As a result, some businesses advertise changes using full-exchange equipment.

Maybe we get all warm and fuzzy about getting out as much previous fluid as possible. I probably don't need to, but when I do oil changes at home I'm not in a hurry and let it drip for up to a half hour. Even after all that the color is still a bit dark (probably about 80-90% of the oil), but I know I did what I needed. Some carmakers even specify filter changes every other oil changes, which means more "dirty oil" still in there. When I changed the PSF in my wife's Honda, I felt good about doing a by the book purge - spewing the old fluid out the return hose rather than a bunch of partial suck and top off cycles as others recommend as an easier and less messy practice.

I guess it's psychological. The rational side tells me that mostly what's going on with the fluids is that the old stuff is worn, and replacing half or most is all that's needed to restore it to proper function. But there's the other side of my brain that thinks it's like washing the dishes. Even today I've seen DIY guides saying that you can judge the condition of motor oil by its color.
 
Rationally we would want all the fluid out that we can.

Practically, the fluids really arent generally "worn out" (other than TBN on some motor oils), so having a little left behind isn t really a concern. I wouldnt necessarily buy the lifetime fluid case, but it really will last a long while, so residue doesnt bother me.

That said, if a little more can be removed in a simple way, why not?
 
The one thing that a lot of people just won't accept is that ATF drains are almost universally less than 50%.

Of course there are a lot of thinking that just won't die, including those who insist on using 10W-40 or 20W-50.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Rationally we would want all the fluid out that we can.

Practically, the fluids really arent generally "worn out" (other than TBN on some motor oils), so having a little left behind isn t really a concern. I wouldnt necessarily buy the lifetime fluid case, but it really will last a long while, so residue doesnt bother me.

That said, if a little more can be removed in a simple way, why not?

Maybe "restore to proper function" was an incomplete description. It may be more of a replenish function to allow the fluid to function properly before it absolutely wears out. Because many fluids will, whether it's depletion of the acid neutralizers, complete breakdown of VI improvers, dispersants being overwhelmed, or detergents breaking down. Back when extended oil change intervals were common, doing a filter only change was justified to replenish the additives by adding a small amount of fresh oil.

Still - with any fluid change, once we drive off the vehicle, it's no longer "freshly changed" and is that way until the next time it's changed. Our vehicles don't fall apart simply on the basis that less than new fluids are circulating through the system. Even so, many feel that you have to get as much of the old stuff out as possible, even if these vehicles are obviously designed to be tolerant of used fluids - even past the recommended change interval.

The power steering on my wife's Civic was whining all the time. Just a whirring sound when starting up for a few minutes until warm and when making turns any time. When cold, the reservoir was right at the min mark, so it wasn't making noises simply because it was low. Just topping off to the max line with Honda PSF and the whine went away. However, even though I took care of the symptoms I wanted to complete the cycle by doing a full purge. Even then I was disappointed because I didn't seem to get the entire .7 quarts that I heard should come out.
 
--Change the oil filter at each OLM oil life monitor flag.

--Change only half the engine oil at each OLM flag.

--Every 3rd oil change, put in an engine flush for 5 minutes prior to changing ALL the oil.

-- Use a Dimple magnetic drain plug to pull out iron particles smaller than 30 microns the oil filter missed.

-- Use an oil filter that mixes in glass fiber (with the basic cellulose-paper) into the media.
 
It may help to use a good synthetic if you go to the half oil change strategy outlined above.

Reference: http://papers.sae.org/2003-01-3119/
http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/
"In one of our previous studies it was observed that engine oil samples collected from fleet vehicles after 12,000 mile drain interval showed 10-15 % lower friction and more importantly, an order of magnitude lower wear rate than those of fresh oils." ... "As in the previous study, the results showed [in this new field study with taxi fleets] that the aged engine oils provide lower friction and much improved wear protection capability. These improvements were observed as early as the 3000 mile drain interval and continued to the 15000 mile drain interval."
 
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