Mazda Miata owner's manual calls for FL-22 antifreeze. I've looked in the usual places, Autozone etc. but can't find it. Finally found it on Amazon at $36.00 per gallon. Can also get it at the local Mazda dealer but the cost will probably be higher. Is there anything special about FL-22 or can I use a common brand like Prestone or other? What do you guys recommend?
FL-22 Antifreeze?
- Thread starter Mar57
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FL-22 is $24.99/gal from the dealer.
Originally Posted By: Mar57
. Is there anything special about FL-22 or can I use a common brand like Prestone or other? What do you guys recommend?
FL22 is an Asian PHOAT AF which comes as a 55/45 premix. Most of the Asian AF premixes come as 50/50, other than that, it has the same chemical profile as the other Asian AFs. No silicates, borates, amines or nitrites. And it's a Long Life AF.
If you can't get FL22 at the quoted ~$25/gallon, you should take a look at PepBoys OEM brand 'concentrate' and make your own 50/50 mix with distilled water. Comes in green tint to match the oem AF. If you have a store nearby and they stock it, it's currently $14.90/gallon. Can check the stores online. Or, go to PepBoys at ebay linked, currently $17.67/gallon delivered.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Concentrate...=item25cef6f756
'I' would not use Prestone Universal because 2eha used as an inhibitor. Asian vehicles don't use or recommend using 2eha.
. Is there anything special about FL-22 or can I use a common brand like Prestone or other? What do you guys recommend?
FL22 is an Asian PHOAT AF which comes as a 55/45 premix. Most of the Asian AF premixes come as 50/50, other than that, it has the same chemical profile as the other Asian AFs. No silicates, borates, amines or nitrites. And it's a Long Life AF.
If you can't get FL22 at the quoted ~$25/gallon, you should take a look at PepBoys OEM brand 'concentrate' and make your own 50/50 mix with distilled water. Comes in green tint to match the oem AF. If you have a store nearby and they stock it, it's currently $14.90/gallon. Can check the stores online. Or, go to PepBoys at ebay linked, currently $17.67/gallon delivered.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Concentrate...=item25cef6f756
'I' would not use Prestone Universal because 2eha used as an inhibitor. Asian vehicles don't use or recommend using 2eha.
I wonder who thought it would be a great idea to deviate from 50/50 that has worked for 80 yrs?
The real question I ask is how can they expect me to maintain the proper mix if you can’t get all the leftovers out of the block and I flush with water?
Ford Motorcraft VC-10-A2 is the same as FL-22.
Originally Posted By: Reggaemon
Ford Motorcraft VC-10-A2 is the same as FL-22.
I see Motorcraft AF part numbers numbers being used more often here now. I know it as Motorcraft Specialty Green, and it does come as a concentrate. However, though it's been awhile last time I priced it at a couple area Ford dealers it was ~$34 a gallon. I realize that it's a concentrate, but still pricey.
Originally Posted By: E150GT
The real question I ask is how can they expect me to maintain the proper mix if you can’t get all the leftovers out of the block and I flush with water?
If you're referring to your 2016 Mazda 6, looks like it has a non pressurized recovery tank. Pep Boys OEM 'concentrate' would work for that. Do some distilled flushes till clear, then using your cooling system capacity, add half capacity (for 50/50) with AF and top with distilled. Can make a 50/50 premix for recovery tank after. In non pressurized tank system I've never not been able to get at least 50% AF into system and top with distilled.
Now if you're wanting to use FL22, after distilled flushes you've got to do d&f's with it until an AF tester shows correct concentration. Or, find the block drain(s) open them and then fill with AF. That's why with premixes many folks just do simple radiator d&fs on shorter intervals. You shouldn't need to worry about it for awhile though.
Ford Motorcraft VC-10-A2 is the same as FL-22.
I see Motorcraft AF part numbers numbers being used more often here now. I know it as Motorcraft Specialty Green, and it does come as a concentrate. However, though it's been awhile last time I priced it at a couple area Ford dealers it was ~$34 a gallon. I realize that it's a concentrate, but still pricey.
Originally Posted By: E150GT
The real question I ask is how can they expect me to maintain the proper mix if you can’t get all the leftovers out of the block and I flush with water?
If you're referring to your 2016 Mazda 6, looks like it has a non pressurized recovery tank. Pep Boys OEM 'concentrate' would work for that. Do some distilled flushes till clear, then using your cooling system capacity, add half capacity (for 50/50) with AF and top with distilled. Can make a 50/50 premix for recovery tank after. In non pressurized tank system I've never not been able to get at least 50% AF into system and top with distilled.
Now if you're wanting to use FL22, after distilled flushes you've got to do d&f's with it until an AF tester shows correct concentration. Or, find the block drain(s) open them and then fill with AF. That's why with premixes many folks just do simple radiator d&fs on shorter intervals. You shouldn't need to worry about it for awhile though.
Originally Posted By: Sayjac
Originally Posted By: Reggaemon
Ford Motorcraft VC-10-A2 is the same as FL-22.
I see Motorcraft AF part numbers numbers being used more often here now. I know it as Motorcraft Specialty Green, and it does come as a concentrate. However, though it's been awhile last time I priced it at a couple area Ford dealers it was ~$34 a gallon. I realize that it's a concentrate, but still pricey.
Originally Posted By: E150GT
The real question I ask is how can they expect me to maintain the proper mix if you can’t get all the leftovers out of the block and I flush with water?
If you're referring to your 2016 Mazda 6, looks like it has a non pressurized recovery tank. Pep Boys OEM 'concentrate' would work for that. Do some distilled flushes till clear, then using your cooling system capacity, add half capacity (for 50/50) with AF and top with distilled. Can make a 50/50 premix for recovery tank after. In non pressurized tank system I've never not been able to get at least 50% AF into system and top with distilled.
Now if you're wanting to use FL22, after distilled flushes you've got to do d&f's with it until an AF tester shows correct concentration. Or, find the block drain(s) open them and then fill with AF. That's why with premixes many folks just do simple radiator d&fs on shorter intervals. You shouldn't need to worry about it for awhile though.
The plan was to use FL22 but I am not going to do drain and fills and lose good expensive coolant so I will probably use the motorcraft stuff. Valvoline also told me I could use their dexcool bit I cannot bring myself to use it since its associated with GM.
Originally Posted By: Reggaemon
Ford Motorcraft VC-10-A2 is the same as FL-22.
I see Motorcraft AF part numbers numbers being used more often here now. I know it as Motorcraft Specialty Green, and it does come as a concentrate. However, though it's been awhile last time I priced it at a couple area Ford dealers it was ~$34 a gallon. I realize that it's a concentrate, but still pricey.
Originally Posted By: E150GT
The real question I ask is how can they expect me to maintain the proper mix if you can’t get all the leftovers out of the block and I flush with water?
If you're referring to your 2016 Mazda 6, looks like it has a non pressurized recovery tank. Pep Boys OEM 'concentrate' would work for that. Do some distilled flushes till clear, then using your cooling system capacity, add half capacity (for 50/50) with AF and top with distilled. Can make a 50/50 premix for recovery tank after. In non pressurized tank system I've never not been able to get at least 50% AF into system and top with distilled.
Now if you're wanting to use FL22, after distilled flushes you've got to do d&f's with it until an AF tester shows correct concentration. Or, find the block drain(s) open them and then fill with AF. That's why with premixes many folks just do simple radiator d&fs on shorter intervals. You shouldn't need to worry about it for awhile though.
The plan was to use FL22 but I am not going to do drain and fills and lose good expensive coolant so I will probably use the motorcraft stuff. Valvoline also told me I could use their dexcool bit I cannot bring myself to use it since its associated with GM.
^^^^True, it is a wasteful process. That's said I was left little choice once when a Honda dealer used original green with a head gasket job. I went back and told them I wasn't pleased and they gave me a jug of Type2 premix, I bought another and did precisely that. As mentioned block drains another option, but depending on where they are that may not be practicable either.
Specialty Green an option.
As for DexCool, I'd pass on that idea. Uses 2eha as a main inhibitor, something the ALL the Asian AF's avoid. One other option is Peak Global Lifetime full strength sold at NAPA. Long Life OAT AF with no 2eha. Been running it in place of Toyota Red or SLL pink for ~3+ years now on older Tacoma. Working fine, original radiator.
Specialty Green an option.
As for DexCool, I'd pass on that idea. Uses 2eha as a main inhibitor, something the ALL the Asian AF's avoid. One other option is Peak Global Lifetime full strength sold at NAPA. Long Life OAT AF with no 2eha. Been running it in place of Toyota Red or SLL pink for ~3+ years now on older Tacoma. Working fine, original radiator.
JHZR2
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Originally Posted By: Chris142
I wonder who thought it would be a great idea to deviate from 50/50 that has worked for 80 yrs?
My Saab didn't come with 50/50.
I wonder who thought it would be a great idea to deviate from 50/50 that has worked for 80 yrs?
My Saab didn't come with 50/50.
Mazda, as well as other, perhaps all Japanese automakers only require one radiator drain and fill as part of their maintenance schedule. That is why they only stock premixed coolant and that is why the factory fill is twice as long as changes afterwards. If you plan on using FL-22 there is no need for multiple drain and fills.
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