First Time Rotor Dial Guage User

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Originally Posted by Trav
In Europe brake system dyno's are very common almost every garage has one but in the US for some reason they are almost unheard of,
This tool will provide similar information when you compare brake pressures between left and right, you will find bad hoses or calipers that are not working 100% right away before buttoning it up and finding out the brakes are not what they should be or has unusual brake pad wear patterns when everything else is nice and free,

Brake parallelism is usually not an issue but easy to check with feeler gauges and can be corrected with shim washers or shim stock. Reman calipers with brackets should be checked, sometimes they surface grind the bracket mountings and don't get it right.


Actually this makes a lot of sense and I should at least get these for my personal racecar and the one I went in on friends with.
 
Welcome to the club and congrats on performing a proper brake job.

Now where's sayjac?
 
Quote
..Now where's sayjac?
I'm right here Mr Know it All. As they are my vehicles that I work on I'll continue to my brake jobs and other DIY as I see fit. If you don't like it, don't read about it or ignore it either way I couldn't care less what you think.

Fwiw, my last brake job like others before working just fine after significant time and miles. I've noted before, since they are my vehicles I only have please one person with the results, me. Once again, Mission Accomplished. And if I choose to post how I do them and what products I use I'll continue to do so.

With this hopefully you will finally get the point. While your immature call out is unsurprising to me, it's still sad and pathetic that you felt compelled make this personal. But since you did, you now have a response in kind.
smile.gif


My apologies to the OP for the OT.
 
Originally Posted by Sayjac
Fwiw, my last brake job like others before working just fine after significant time and miles. I've noted before, since they are my vehicles I only have please one person with the results, me. Once again, Mission Accomplished. And if I choose to post how I do them and what products I use I'll continue to do so.

It's sad that people can't post too much information about what they do or what they use. Some busybody will find fault or give criticism about it. And all too often, they're just repeating "what they heard" or they have (1) instance of using something that didn't work. Anyone with more than half a brain knows you can't make blanket determinations about a single-case instance.
 
Originally Posted by bdcardinal
Originally Posted by Trav
In Europe brake system dyno's are very common almost every garage has one but in the US for some reason they are almost unheard of,
This tool will provide similar information when you compare brake pressures between left and right, you will find bad hoses or calipers that are not working 100% right away before buttoning it up and finding out the brakes are not what they should be or has unusual brake pad wear patterns when everything else is nice and free,

Brake parallelism is usually not an issue but easy to check with feeler gauges and can be corrected with shim washers or shim stock. Reman calipers with brackets should be checked, sometimes they surface grind the bracket mountings and don't get it right.


Actually this makes a lot of sense and I should at least get these for my personal racecar and the one I went in on friends with.


Yes, good pressure with brake on (high pressure) and off (zero pressure quickly when pedal is released) and equal on all pistons and left and right is a must for good brake performance. We see threads all time where the poster cleaned and lubed all the points, pins, bores and slides yet still had accelerated piston side pad wear.
Using this tool you would probably see the pressure drop off to a lower reading then a short time later drop to zero, this indicates a sticking caliper or bad hose.

If cracking the bleeder makes it zero immediately then its a bad hose, if not probably the caliper is the culprit. $200 is a lot of wood for the DIY guy to use once every few years but if you do brakes fairly often its a beneficial tool to own AFAIK no one rents this.
 
Originally Posted by Sayjac
Quote
..Now where's sayjac?
I'm right here Mr Know it All. As they are my vehicles that I work on I'll continue to my brake jobs and other DIY as I see fit. If you don't like it, don't read about it or ignore it either way I couldn't care less what you think.

Fwiw, my last brake job like others before working just fine after significant time and miles. I've noted before, since they are my vehicles I only have please one person with the results, me. Once again, Mission Accomplished. And if I choose to post how I do them and what products I use I'll continue to do so.

With this hopefully you will finally get the point. While your immature call out is unsurprising to me, it's still sad and pathetic that you felt compelled make this personal. But since you did, you now have a response in kind.
smile.gif


My apologies to the OP for the OT.

Sharing ideas and personal processes is part of being on a discussion forum. By posting on this forum, you can expect to receive commentary; some of it will be positive (and supportive), some of it will be critical. I have learned many things from this forum and I am sure you have as well. Some of them I have chosen to implement, others I have not. But I do recognize and respect the value (and legitimacy) of the ideas being shared.

It was never my intention to make the comment a personal attack. Many forums allow you to tag an individual, this one does not. In fact, I should have attached an emoji to my comment since it was not intended to be written in a completely serious tone.
 
Your pontification regarding forum practice and expectation is only partially accurate. When one either starts a thread or chooses to post in one, then it should be expected that there may be a reply, critical or otherwise. Not what happened here, I did neither. What other forums may do, irrelevant.

As I had read it shortly after posting, had I chosen to participant in the thread I would have done so on my own. Until the call out I chose not to. Further I only quoted the call out portion of the post. The response was based on the context of the "performing a proper brake job". And the context of you having made similar views quite clear previously on my RPT rotor installation thread. As noted that was to be expected there, was responded to and should have been the end of it. The implication of all that together seemed/seems obvious to me.

So not being part the some juvenile imaginary club it should be clear now is the least of my concern. Bottom line, whatever the intention, I didn't call you out in thread on which you were not a participant, nor would I. I'd expect similar courtesy afforded as part forum etiquette.
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by Sayjac
Fwiw, my last brake job like others before working just fine after significant time and miles. I've noted before, since they are my vehicles I only have please one person with the results, me. Once again, Mission Accomplished. And if I choose to post how I do them and what products I use I'll continue to do so.

It's sad that people can't post too much information about what they do or what they use. Some busybody will find fault or give criticism about it. And all too often, they're just repeating "what they heard" or they have (1) instance of using something that didn't work. Anyone with more than half a brain knows you can't make blanket determinations about a single-case instance.


Yeah, but Maxlife does make transmissions die. Read that once here. Definitely applies everywhere.

Back on topic; the IPA tool is a VERY effective way to avoid a Charlie-Foxtrot when diagnosing brake problems. It's saved my behind quite a few times, and friends of mine. The first time it does, it has paid for itself.
 
I'm traveling in fast company, indeed.

The idea that an undetected bad hose or caliper piston can fubar an otherwise great brake job has been on my mind. I currently check function the primitive way, have someone push very slowly on the brake while I hold the piston. Sometimes you can feel or see sticky function or non- function.

Other ways of dealing with it is pre-emptive hose replacement (divisive topic on bitog) at 10 years or when ugly, and annual pull down and inspection to see if they are wearing evenly. However most DIY'ers would rather slap new pads in there if they bother to pull down the brakes.
 
oh no.

I've already spent too much on tools this month for household wiring, and a bathtup repaint.

now this.

I can't not do this.
 
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