First startup with Gen I Small Block Chevy...detergent or non-detergent oil??

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You probably know this, but crank the engine with the ignition or fuel disabled until you get oil pressure, then actually start the car.
 
quote:

Originally posted by C.O. Jones:
You probably know this, but crank the engine with the ignition or fuel disabled until you get oil pressure, then actually start the car.

Not the best idea. Priming the engine before starting is one of the most important things you can do before starting this engine.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jimbo:
This break-in oil thing relates to the old chromed rings that dont exist anymore, to my knowlege, except in aircraft. Lycoming and Continental still factory fill with straight 50 mineral oil, to be used for the first 25 hours.

As I said earlier, it relates not to the rings, but to bringing down the cylinder walls. And we're not talking about production engines here. This is a field rebuild, usually still done with small hand and machine tooling.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 427Z06:

quote:

Originally posted by C.O. Jones:
You probably know this, but crank the engine with the ignition or fuel disabled until you get oil pressure, then actually start the car.

Not the best idea. Priming the engine before starting is one of the most important things you can do before starting this engine.


On the mark, 427. If the builder did a good job, you can usually rely on the assembly lube for the first five to ten seconds until pressure arrives. But priming the lubrication system reduces that reliance to a minimum.
 
I will defenitly prime the motor. I just have to practice getting the dizzy in, plenum and CAI on, fuel lines hooked up, sensors and vacuum lines on etc. before the oil drains back off the top end!

Well, next on the list is what filter to use. I've done a lot of reading on here about various filters and i know there is no one perfect filter but im still clueless whch one to use.

Do I want an ADBV since mine is right side up?
I am going to need a good median between flow and cleaning ability...any suggestions?
I also would like to get a tall or oversized filter so I can have as much surface area to clean the oil as possible.

Thanks again everyone!
 
If you have 13/16-16 threads and the ground clearance (what is this engine going into?), Wix 51060, AC Delco PF1218, PureOne PL34631, Motorcraft FL-12A will do nicely. These have an ADBV which I prefer. I like K&N HP-3002 once engine is broken in, but it's probably overkill.
 
John Deere at all their dealerships sells a special-blend 10W-30 break-in oil with special aditives. Cruise their website or stop in a dealer for more info. This may be of interest to you. Philip.
 
I did a search on EOS being added to engine oil. I found people mentioning adding a few ounces to a whole bottle. Has anyone added EOS and had good results?

I will be breaking in my new Ford 300 with SuperTech 5w30 and was planning on adding the whole bottle of EOS for cam break in. Then after the first quick oil change after break in I will run Shell Rotella T 5w40 syn.

I also read an article in the June 2006 HotRod magazine about cam failures with flat tappet cams. They recommed EOS and Shell Rotella oil and Quaker State Racing oils.

Should I add EOS to the cheap SuperTech oil for break in?
 
Just an update...the car is very close to being driven. Before I start it, I need get the suspension together so i can drive the thing.

I ended up picking up two NAPA Gold filters and will run HD30 Supertech for the first 30 min run and HD30 Pennzoil for the 500 mile run. Will eventully move to the M1 or M1 EP with a M1 filter.

I've found that selection around here is extemly limited (both oil and filters) so I had to compromise...
 
I also would like to know how much EOS I should put in the 6 qts. of Supertech I'm using.

427...this motor is a Gen I SBC so I don't really need a ADBV do I? I have a deep pan and the NAPA Gold filter I have now is about 3-4" short of the bottom of the pan. I'm unsure of the thread size, however.
 
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