First Oil Change

[Dave Sherman]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Johnny
When you remove that oil filter, oil is going to run everywhere. Be sure and try to wipe down everywhere the oil went, if not you will have oil drops on your floor for days. Honda engineers should be shot for that filter location.


I've got the guns and ammo!

Every time I changed the oil in my 1998 Accord or Dad's 2001 Civic I thought of those "engineers"...

I KNOW I could find 12 people to find me innocent.

If that did not work pleading temp insanity WOULD work!

NOT one of Honda's better moves.



If it's any help, I was equally disgusted by the mess my '04 would make, but I took an old 1 quart oil bottle, cut the side out of it, leaving the neck and cap intact, and used it as a tray to stick under the filter. I cut the side down to the the bottom of the bottle, stuck the bottom up against the side of the engine, and the oil would land in the bottle. Then I could take the "catch pan" out, open the cap, and drain it into the rest of the oil.

Honda also sells an "oil deflector" just for changing the K24's filter without making a mess too.
http://www.handa-accessories.com/elementmaint.html

 

[Johnny]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Johnny
When you remove that oil filter, oil is going to run everywhere. Be sure and try to wipe down everywhere the oil went, if not you will have oil drops on your floor for days. Honda engineers should be shot for that filter location.


I've got the guns and ammo!

Every time I changed the oil in my 1998 Accord or Dad's 2001 Civic I thought of those "engineers"...

I KNOW I could find 12 people to find me innocent.

If that did not work pleading temp insanity WOULD work!

NOT one of Honda's better moves.



Your honor I find this defendant NOT GULITY of all charges.

 

[hominid7]

Originally Posted By: reef
Do most people do this? I've changed a lot of vertical filters and never even heard of this procedure. Have I been screwing up all these years?


In a perfect world, pre-filling the filter may in fact decrease the amount of time the engine is starved for oil upon start-up after an oil change. However, i don't think filling the inside of the filter really helps. In order to do it properly, you would need to fill the outside section of the filter, let the media soak up oil, and then fill the inside. This would take a lot of time, make a mess, and that's why i never do it.

 

[hominid7]

Originally Posted By: radtech91
Hello everyone, this is my first post and my first time trying my own oil change, so bear with me.

I have a 2009 Honda CR-V EX 4wd. I bought Castrol Syntec 5w-20 oil and a Puralator PureOne Oil Filter. I also got a pair of Rhino Ramps.

What else do I need for the change?

Where is the best place and price to get those supplies?

Do you have any suggestions/tips for my first time?

I have the service manual from Honda but it isn't very detailed and especially since I have never done this before, I need help. Thank you!



I've never changed the oil on a Honda CR-V before, but as far as the order of steps involved, while some may have different methods, i do the following on a warm (not too hot) engine:

1. Remove old filter first, using the oil drain pan to catch the oil from the filter and the filter itself. I usually loosen it with my filter wrench, give it a few turns, which lets some oil start drooling out. I let it stop dripping and then take it the rest of the way off.

2. Take a rag and wipe off the filter flange, making sure the threaded bolt is still in place (on some cars it can come out with the filter) and make sure the old filter o-ring didnt stay stuck on the flange.

3. Wipe down any areas where oil may have spilled.

4. Put a thin coat of fresh oil on the new filter o-ring, and spin on by hand, tightening per the filter instructions (usually 1 to 1.5 full turns after the gasket hits the filter flange).

5. Remove oil pan drain bolt, and allow old oil to drain. While you are doing this, loosen the oil filler cap, and pull the oil dipstick out part way to allow for easier drainage.

6. While the old oil drains, you can use this time to check your CV boots, battery, PS fluid, coolant level, tire pressure, and other necessary items.

7. Once the oils flow slows to a drip, wipe off and inspect the oil pan bolt, replace or reuse the old washer, and wipe down the oil pan plug area, install bolt and tighten. I get mine tight, but not TOO tight. Sometimes paying attention to how tight it was when you took it off, and perhaps tightening, loosening it once more, and re-tighten it so you can get a feel for it may be good practice during your first oil change. Tightening and re-loosening it, may require another new washer though. I get mine snug, then give it a good UMPH. However on my car while laying underneath the car, i'm in no way putting my full force on the bolt. You can use a torque wrench if you want to do it exactly right.

8. Move oil drain pan to a safe location so you dont either step on it or drive over it.

9. Fill engine with new oil as per the owners manual. Replace dip stick, oil fillter cap, and anything else you took loose. (If the owners manual says it takes 4.0 quarts you might add just a little less. Adding more is easy. If you get it overfilled, drama can follow). As a side note, you can likely run an engine 1/4 quart over without any ill-effect, but i would not want to get it much more over-filled than that.

10. Start engine and give it 60 seconds for pressure to built and oil to flow (Oil light should go off within a few seconds and any clatter when you start it up the first time will stop within a few seconds). If you used ramps, this would be a good time to back it off the ramps.

11. Turn off engine and then check everything. Put your hand on the filter to make sure its not leaking and should be slightly warm (indicating oil has been flowing through it). Make sure the drain bolt is dry, then check the oil level and adjust as necessary. If you need to add any oil, do so no more than 1/4 quart at a time, as you dont want to overfill it too much. I usually get mine just a fraction above the full mark.

12. Clean up everything, and pour old oil into a large gallon container (milk jug, detergent jug, gallon vodka bottle, whatever) for recycling. Your local auto part store or walmart should accept your old oil. It is recommended to allow your old filter to drain for 24 hours prior to throwing it away. You can put a screen or old kitchen broiler rack on top of your oil drain pan to accomplish this.

13. Take car for test drive, and when you return you can check the auto transmission fluid (if so equipped) and check the oil again and check one more time under the hood to make sure everything is as it should be.

I ordered a few hundred oil change windshield reminder decals from ebay and also got some from pennzoil for free by emailing them and requesting them from their website. I also keep all my receipts, write down everything i did and staple receitps to the paper along with miles recorded and date. My cars out of warranty, but i still do this as i like to keep proper records.

Good luck!

 

[ryan2022]

Enjoy the oil change.

Its as nice for me as an hour or two in the spa is for my wife.

Its good meditation!

Remember, before you remove the drain plug, that oil usually flys out in an arc out of the pan. Make sure you place your drain bucket accordingly.

I've made too many messes to remember.

 

[ThirdeYe]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Johnny
When you remove that oil filter, oil is going to run everywhere. Be sure and try to wipe down everywhere the oil went, if not you will have oil drops on your floor for days. Honda engineers should be shot for that filter location.


I've got the guns and ammo!

Every time I changed the oil in my 1998 Accord or Dad's 2001 Civic I thought of those "engineers"...

I KNOW I could find 12 people to find me innocent.

If that did not work pleading temp insanity WOULD work!

NOT one of Honda's better moves.



I'm assuming it's in the same location as my Integra.. above the CV axle on the back of the engine, horizontally?

I don't understand the problem with it, I'm always able to get it off just fine. It does make a bit of a mess and it's hard to wedge a towel between the CV axle and the engine block, but oh well. I've seen worse *shakes fist angrily at the 1998 Kia Sephia I used to maintain* The 5.7 on the GMC/Chevy 4x4 pickup oil filter location was a pain in the butt too, you had to bend your wrist in ways it wasn't meant to be bent!

 

[afoulk]

I'm a diesel mechanic for a living, so thats why I've gotten into the practice of prefilling my filters. Some of the stuff we work on can have anywhere from 1-4 filters on it, and some can hold anywhere from 1-4qts in it.

Also, I just kinda skimmed over the last few posts, so i dont' know if its been covered yet, but while your under there changing oil, that would be the perfect time to check the underside of your honda over for anything visually wrong with it. Oh, and I like to keep a little notebook tablet in my console and log everything I do to my car in it.

 

[Superbuick96]

Just stay away from Pennzoil, it promotes waxy buildup, not to mention it will sludge up your 2.7L !

 

[JustinC25]

Last poster was just joking, Pennzoil is excellent oil.

+1 on the detailed info post.
Also have a can of brake cleaner, paper towels, and a good amount of cardboard available. (Like a pizza box size.) Before starting work, lay down the cardboard under your work area. This is for 2 reasons. The first is incase you spill any oil, it will keep your garage floor, or driveway clean. The 2nd is that the oil drain pan will slide much easier on the cardboard then on asphault, thereby reducing the chance for spillage.
Spray any spills with the brake cleaner, and wipe with a paper towel, MAKING SURE NOT TO GET ANY INSIDE YOUR ENGINE, AS IT CAN WIPE OUT YOUR BEARINGS. Basically, I just make sure the filter is on and tight, the oil cap is back on, and the drain plug is tight, and you should be ok. Just spray it down sparingly, and wipe with the paper towel. This also works on spills on the garage floor.

Good Luck, and Merry Christmas,
Justin

 

[Jeepster_nut]

I have an 08 CR-V EX-L 4wd. I put in the full 5 quart jug of oil, not the 4.5 as indicated in the manual. For some reason, 4.5q only brings it up to the lower mark on the dipstick. The full 5 quarts brings it up to the top mark. I have even let it sit for days and checked it and it is not overfull with 5 quarts.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
It does make a bit of a mess and it's hard to wedge a towel between the CV axle and the engine block


But other than that its easy!

Compared to 95% of the other engines I've changed oil in the last 30+ years, the Honda motors are a POOR design.

The last vehicle I changed oil on that made a mess like the Hondas was my 1972 Ford Truck with a 360.

Also the 1993 Ford Exploder with 4.0l V6 I'd LOVE to meet that "engineer" face to face.

Take care, Bill

 

[radtech91]

Thanks for all the replies!

I put my CR-V up on the ramps just to see how hard this was going to be when I do the change. The drain bolt and oil filter are right by each other. The filter is just above the drain plug and vertical. It looks like it is gonna be pretty easy and also no mess.

I had a Honda Element before this and I always got the changes done at the Honda garage, but I was going to start to do them, when I looked up the location for its filter it is really up in there. I'm glad the CR-V is so easily accessible.

I'm at 2000 miles now so I guess once the MM system hits about 20% I'll do the change.

Also, does anyone else no if me doing the changes myself will void m y factory warranty? I heard this on another forum if you don't keep detailed records it could possibly void the warranty.

Any other suggestions for my first oil change is still welcome and very much appreciated. Thanks again!

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: radtech91

Also, does anyone else no if me doing the changes myself will void m y factory warranty? I heard this on another forum if you don't keep detailed records it could possibly void the warranty.


Keep and do the following; (spoken from someone who had to jump through the hoops for a warranty claim and BECAUSE of my records and maintenance they warrantied a repair 25 THOUSAND miles after the warranty ran out)

1. Receipts.

Make sure it is for the CORRECT weight/type spec'd in the manual. They could check. Don't worry if you buy a lot on sale and use it up later, just have the correct oil and amount for the oil changes listed.

2. Log of service done, be detailed in description

(IE 12-24-2009 12,100 miles changed oil and filter with Pennzoil 5w30 (4 quarts) and Supertech ST4967 filter. Cut open filter for inspection. Blah Blah Blah

3. Take the cap off the oil filter box and write the oil used, date and miles. Keep those.

Make sure you are following the manual and do the above and you'll be fine *IF* you have any problems.

The biggest laugh the service guys get is when a vehicle is towed to the shop DOA with a brand new oil change. That speaks volumes to them. Same if the vehicle comes in with a problem. The owner is trying to cover something up in their minds with a fresh oil change.

Take care and enjoy the vehicle.

Merry Christmas, Bill