Considering Fiesta ST. What problems to look out for. Are they using the same block, internals or is it ruggedized for the turbo? Probably will shop for around 70,000 miles, definetly under 100,000 miles. is it geared lower - same RPM at 60 MPH in top gear as regular Fiesta SE?
Fiesta ST Problems?
- Thread starter borgward
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I had one when new. Fun car, but expect rattles from lots of hard plastics and stiff ride. Much of the handling comes from dynamic brake applications, usually to the inside front wheel. One thing about the fast Fords of the era (had a FoRS after) was that the seating position was quite high, at least with the Recaros. The 1.6 is of the Ecoboost variety used in many other applications and nothing special about it. If I remember correctly, it may suffer from the poor design that causes head gasket leaking of coolant to oil.
Not surprised with turbo boost. Bought 2013 SE Hatch new. No engine problems. Seating did not seem too high. Felt like TR4 seating position. Maybe different w/Recaro?
My 2017 SE has been absolutely excellent (except for trim). Probably the most important thing you can do is shop 2016 and up for the reengineered DCT. Do your own research but you do not want a 2015 and back Fiesta with the bad DCT's.
The 1.6 has been fantastic. I have 105K on mine and its perfect. I get a solid 40mpg on the highways. I have no idea about the 1.0 turbo.
The Fiestas are great small cars, but their exterior and interior trim is their sore spot. That does not affect driving but can be a nuisance.
The 1.6 has been fantastic. I have 105K on mine and its perfect. I get a solid 40mpg on the highways. I have no idea about the 1.0 turbo.
The Fiestas are great small cars, but their exterior and interior trim is their sore spot. That does not affect driving but can be a nuisance.
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I had one for close to a decade. In that time I didn't have to do much other than general maintenance and a few HVAC blend door actuators (you'll get used to replacing these). Apart from the terrible paint coming off nearly every panel, I avoided all the other common issues:
And while not really issues, these are annoyance points for people that do their own work:
If you can live with those issues, they're extremely fun little go karts. Brakes, suspension, and tires are cheap and plentiful and they've been widely used in numerous motorsports so there's a lot of information out there for making them even better.
- Lots of plastic cooling system components like to crack and fail, usually the line fittings on the overflow tank. The stock radiator is also pretty much inadequate even for a stock vehicle.
- Both clutch hydraulic cylinders are plastic, with the slave cylinder being a concentric throwout bearing type inside the bellhousing (clutch job if it leaks)
- Gearbox uses small fixed ball bearings on both the input and output shafts, which fail from thrust loading. Also, only 2 out of 6 forward speed gears (and reverse) ride on needle bearings, the rest ride directly on the shafts (what is this, 1950?). We also never got the option of a stock LSD, which the car really needed. Basically the gearbox is junk.
- EVAP purge valves commonly fail. The $10> valve itself is not serviceable due to being molded into hard vacuum lines, so the entire harness has to be replaced at a cost of around $200 every time unless you splice a replacement into it or spend even more for upfront an aftermarket harness that lets you simply replace the valve.
- Blend door actuators. I'll mention them again because they really do break that often.
And while not really issues, these are annoyance points for people that do their own work:
- Timing belt jobs require a special toolset to lock the crank (have to remove one of the axels), flywheel (have to remove the starter), cams (have to remove valve cover), and crank pulley, and uses a special non-reusable stretch bolt + washer, all because the crankshaft isn't keyed.
- Almost every suspension bolt is a non-reusable stretch bolt, and they're not cheap
- All 4 wheel bearings are press-in
If you can live with those issues, they're extremely fun little go karts. Brakes, suspension, and tires are cheap and plentiful and they've been widely used in numerous motorsports so there's a lot of information out there for making them even better.
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ST's were 6-speed manual only
Yeah, some input here seems to be talking about stock homely Fiestas, I kept say to myself no way the ST could of had the horrible Ford DCT trans, it had to be all manual trans, make sense now. I feel good, my car is VERY stiff and have very few, if any rattles from the plastics. I have Roxul mineral wool insulation behind my plastics though and door tar in the doors and rear tub. I do have urethane "spring rubbers" squeaks though, with some urethane control arm squeaks in there too I bet. Just turn up the 80's rock!!!
What would a mechanic shop typically charge for a timing belt replacement on the 1.6L? I intend to do mine at 150K.
BTW, at 105K no issues with blend door actuators...
I would get that done immediately!!! I am guessing $1000 plus. The tools to do the job are not expensive. What ever the shop charges is way less than down payment on something new.
I am asking about the ST, not the S, SE, or SES.
I didn't know they re-engineered the dreadful DCT for 2016...did they do the same for the DCT in the Focus? I have a 2014 Focus bought new and I purposely bought a stick because I was aware of the DCT's issues. If I knew the DCT was fixed after 2015 I'd consider buying another low mileage one.
Also, I believe the Fiesta ST only came with a stick shift but I may be wrong?
It's funny you mention that but when I took my 2014 Focus in for it's annual inspection they noted that my coolant 'overflow' tank was leaking. It was and I ordered one online and plan to install it when I return to NY in March. I wondered how something like that happens (a plastic tank that doesn't move developing a leak). I'm guessing it happens often enough due to the amount of tanks being sold on Ebay, RA etc...I'm looking forward to seeing exactly where the leak is when I remove the old tank. I'm glad I'm due for a coolant change rather than having just done one.
I have read that even the later DCT's have problems, but not as much.
I thought about buying a Focus when I bought my 13 Fiesta SE but the Focus looked bloated compared to the previous generation. The 13 Focus used the same 5 speed (Getrag) as the Fiesta. I believe the earlier generation used the same as the Escort 5 speed which is a decent gearbox. The Getrag 5 speed is an abomination. ti's a 4 speed that they tacked on a 5 gear. It also has the reverse gear as part of the 1st/2nd synchro hub. The result is it won't downshift into 1st unless you are going about 3 MPH.
I thought about buying a Focus when I bought my 13 Fiesta SE but the Focus looked bloated compared to the previous generation. The 13 Focus used the same 5 speed (Getrag) as the Fiesta. I believe the earlier generation used the same as the Escort 5 speed which is a decent gearbox. The Getrag 5 speed is an abomination. ti's a 4 speed that they tacked on a 5 gear. It also has the reverse gear as part of the 1st/2nd synchro hub. The result is it won't downshift into 1st unless you are going about 3 MPH.
Sorry if I got you off track with my posts about the SE. Its just so rare to see talk about Fiestas here...
Miss my car. Get to "Stage 2" as soon as possible.
Stage 2 ? For competition? I used to race a TR3B in SCCA events late 60's, early 70's. If I get an ST it will be a street machine.
Stage 0, Stage .5 Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3 and Stage 4, is "high performance nomenclature". It is the degree of use, and/or the extreme use of maximum thresholds of boost, ignition timing, ect.... before going BOOM for turbocharger/Supercharger ECU tuning that deals with boost, ignition timing and fuel/air ratios. It includes, and sometimes excludes, add on parts like catted/non catted exhaust down pipes, exhaust systems, electronic/manual blow-off valves, intercoolers, intake tubing sizing, fuel injector sizing, methanol injection, and E85 fuel to gasoline ratios, and some cases engine RPM. It also includes when in the RPM range torque and HP are available and at what degree it pushes danger to short block internal parts, whether modified or not modified. Stage 3 can be pushed on some cars unmodified short blocks, but Stage 4 must have a modified short block.
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Stage 1 and Stage 2 are very common and Stage 1 is fully safe, and Stage 2 is mostly safe, but risk is just low level starting.
Tune, Intercooler, cat back. Thing flied.
Hey Guys,
Long time lurker first time poster having just made my account yesterday. Since I’ve been reading your threads and learning tons for years now I figured it was time to contribute with my ownership review of my 2015 Ford Fiesta ST with the 1.6 Ecoboost.
History: I bought this car as a cheap and fun commuter in January of 2016 with a 3 year lease and 76 miles on the clock from my local dealer. The car is fully loaded with the Recaro Seats, Sync 2 & Navigation, Sunroof and the grey wheels. The car stickered for around $26,000...
Long time lurker first time poster having just made my account yesterday. Since I’ve been reading your threads and learning tons for years now I figured it was time to contribute with my ownership review of my 2015 Ford Fiesta ST with the 1.6 Ecoboost.
History: I bought this car as a cheap and fun commuter in January of 2016 with a 3 year lease and 76 miles on the clock from my local dealer. The car is fully loaded with the Recaro Seats, Sync 2 & Navigation, Sunroof and the grey wheels. The car stickered for around $26,000...
Funny, I was just talking about how fun that little car was with a friend today. Didn't own it past 50k miles, but the only thing out of the ordinary was the blend door actuator, like the person said above.
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