Faulty TPS?

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I’ve posted about this problem previously, thinking it had something to do with the transmission. Someone pointed out it could be the differential, and I had that inspected but there wasn’t a problem with it. It cannot be ABS related, because the vehicle isn’t equipped with ABS (’00 Montero). I’m being told this is the TPS ($200+), but that cannot be confirmed without using an ohmmeter. Before I go out and purchase an ohmmeter to confirm, I was wondering if these symptoms I experience are actually TSP-related. If somebody can shed some light on this, I would very much appreciate it.

The problem is intermittent, and do not happen all the time. It first started as a knock whilst driving at highway speeds…as if someone suddenly slammed on the brakes for 1 second and released them. It was quite hard and noticeable before, but now it's gotten very faint and doesn't happen very often. Then I started noticing something usual at WOT last night. The best way to explain the symptom is…imagine you’ve just driven over wet tarmac and gunned the throttle, causing your rear wheels so spin freely. Then as the tires dry up, they stop spinning, but spin every now and then, because parts of the tires are still wet, until the tires are completely dry. I suppose it’s like the transmission is slipping to some extent but not exactly. Then again, I’ve recently serviced the unit and have religiously changed ATF every 25,000 miles since the truck was new. I’m being told the TPS is faulty and cuts off, causing these symptoms. Does this sound like a good enough explanation? Could it need cleaning with electrical contact cleaner? Thanks!
 
Is there a torque management system on this car? I am not talking about ABS here. TMS controls the amount of torque sent down the driveline to protect itself from damage. Many GM cars have it. They go faulty from time to time and cause exactly what you described. Calibrating a throttle positioning switch is super simple and easy by the way.
 
To me it sounds like a u-joint siezing up or something mechanical. Does the truck have full time all wheel drive? Maybe something is binding and releasing in the center diff.

Does the truck run leaded gas? If so its engine management is going to be different from that of many forum readers.
 
Thanks for the input. I dismantled the throttle body and it was extremely filthy, despite having cleaned it in January. I cleaned the whole thing, and sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the TPS and choke. Put everything back together, and there's a significant improvement in throttle response. The problem didn't come up in the 100 miles I driven, but that doesn't mean to say it's sorted.

Nevertheless, I will check the TMS, ignition and u-joints to be on the safe side. The truck runs on 95 RON unleaded gas. If it doesn't come back over the course of the next few days (fingers crossed!), I reckon it's safe to say it's done and dusted.
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$200 for a TPS is outrageous... I'm listing one for your car for about $80 CDN. Plus shipping, and it's still under $100 CDN.

Let me know if you want me to hook you up with one...

Also testing the TPS with an ohm meter is not good, because it could be flaky in one spot, showing an Ohm reading but causing the wrong feedback to the computer. The best way to check it is by replacing it or hooking the car up to a scan tool and it will have a mode that will show you a graph and when you press/let go of the throttle you should see a nice even wavy line without blips in it... If not then the TPS is toast.

It's a wearable part and Japanese systems generally use it for their transmission shifting / timing etc...
 
An Ohmmeter or voltage check of the TPS is a fine way to check them.
Watch for uneveness as you gradually open the throttle, as well as the actual values.
 
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Best to use an analog version. My digital did not pick up on the multiple faulty spots on my TPS that was causing rough/random shifting and acceleration "glitches". I knew it was the TPS as it was directly related to throttle angles.

Replaced it, all was perfect again. Tested my old TPS on an analog voltmeter a friend had, yup drop outs in multiple spots.
 
My mom's old Intrepid had this problem and couldn't be proven on an analogue/digital meter... It did show up on a Scan-Tool though as mentioned above. You might get away with a multi-meter testing, but you won't be 100% sure IMO.
 
Steve, many thanks for the offer - much appreciated! I have to say I first checked the price online, and it was $167 USD for a Delphi unit, but with shipping it came up to $200. Called the parts department at the dealer this afternoon, and it's $80 USD for an OEM one manufactured by Mitsubishi Electric.
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That said, the problem hasn't gone away and has started to become more frequent - happens only under two conditions: one is at around 80-90 km/h (50-55 MPH) at the 2,000-2,200 rpm mark, the second is under heavy acceleration (which is the symptom I described above). Spoke to a technician at the dealer, who said I will need to book the vehicle in. He said the TPS controls the TMS on my truck, along with the transmission shift points - but he reckons its an electrical problem to do with the distributor.
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Falcon_LS: Glad to help...

Originally Posted By: brianl703
An oscilloscope will show any TPS problems for sure.


This would help for sure... But not too many people have these at home, but some people do have access to a Scan Tool. I have both!
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Like an O2 sensor, a TPS can be bad and not throw a code.
Manually checking components is sometimes the only way to ascertain if they are bad, or partially bad.
 
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