I'm getting my house painted soon and some of the soffets and facia boards are weather damaged. I really don't want to replace them; are there any primers or exterior house paints that can seal and penetrate damaged wood? Thanks!
Exterior house painting
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We used some kind of wood stabilizer. It soaked into the wood and when it dried it felt like plastic. I'll have to ask my wife what the name of it was.
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
I'm getting my house painted soon and some of the soffets and facia boards are weather damaged. I really don't want to replace them; are there any primers or exterior house paints that can seal and penetrate damaged wood? Thanks!
December is a few days away, you live in Colorado where I'm going to go out on a limb and assume its pretty cold now especially at night? Coming from someone with over 32 years in the business I would seriously recommend you wait until the spring to have any exterior painting done. There are some very good primers on the market that fit the bill for you, however it is best they are applied when temperatures are above 40F-45F long enough for the products to fully cure without it dipping below 40F. The best temps in my experience to paint outside is from about 50F-80F.
Contractors and even paint companies will tell people they can paint in colder temps and even used so call products designed for application in cold and damp conditions. Please take my advice and wait until spring if you can.
I'm getting my house painted soon and some of the soffets and facia boards are weather damaged. I really don't want to replace them; are there any primers or exterior house paints that can seal and penetrate damaged wood? Thanks!
December is a few days away, you live in Colorado where I'm going to go out on a limb and assume its pretty cold now especially at night? Coming from someone with over 32 years in the business I would seriously recommend you wait until the spring to have any exterior painting done. There are some very good primers on the market that fit the bill for you, however it is best they are applied when temperatures are above 40F-45F long enough for the products to fully cure without it dipping below 40F. The best temps in my experience to paint outside is from about 50F-80F.
Contractors and even paint companies will tell people they can paint in colder temps and even used so call products designed for application in cold and damp conditions. Please take my advice and wait until spring if you can.
First of all, listen to demarpaint. Personally if the wood is damaged, wait until spring, then replace the wood and then do the painting. I live in warmer AL and do not paint if the temp is going below 45-50 degrees in the night. The paint simply will not dry as well as it does in warmer days.
If you really don't want to replace the weathered wood, you're probably looking for a product like Minwax Wood Hardener:
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener
A pint is about $10 in my neck of the woods.
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener
A pint is about $10 in my neck of the woods.
I'll take your guy's advice and wait till spring. It's been unusually warm here recently; that's why I wanted to get it done, but if it would be better to wait, I will. demarpaint, do you have a preferred brand of primer or wood sealer? Thanks; I appreciate the advice from a professional.
You need 50 F overnight for the paint to dry properly. Wait till spring.
Is the weathered wood ready to fall apart or just weathered looking. The Minwax Wood Hardener is good for a spot here and there, but not for entire pieces of weathered wood.
I like oil base paint for the outside. I think its better for the wood with its oil and you you can go over a weathered piece back and forth until all the cracks and crevices are filled without it drying.
Is the weathered wood ready to fall apart or just weathered looking. The Minwax Wood Hardener is good for a spot here and there, but not for entire pieces of weathered wood.
I like oil base paint for the outside. I think its better for the wood with its oil and you you can go over a weathered piece back and forth until all the cracks and crevices are filled without it drying.
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A few facia boards are pretty rotted, but they're on a ridge part of the roof that would be a bear to replace. They're right where I just got new gutters put on as well; I don't want to pull the new gutters off.
I just painted the exterior of my house. Plus two 8'x12' sheds and a 16'x30' detached garage. I did it myself. Took me all summer. I did some research and talked to a lot of guys around me, and I decided to use Sherwin Williams Super Paint. All the paint was applied with a roller then brushed in, or just a brush.
All my buildings are cedar sided that are over 30 years old, and had been stained with opaque stain several times.
The coolest product I bought, was for my porches and their hand rails. Some idiot had used latex on the porch and it was mostly gone. I didn't feel like sanding it all down and starting with bare wood. I used a Sherwin Williams product called Tread Plex. That stuff is crazy tough. If I had the money, I would have painted my entire house with this stuff.
It's 100% acrylic. Crazy penetration. Harder than heck, but with just a touch of give/flex. But it retails for about $150/gallon.
All my buildings are cedar sided that are over 30 years old, and had been stained with opaque stain several times.
The coolest product I bought, was for my porches and their hand rails. Some idiot had used latex on the porch and it was mostly gone. I didn't feel like sanding it all down and starting with bare wood. I used a Sherwin Williams product called Tread Plex. That stuff is crazy tough. If I had the money, I would have painted my entire house with this stuff.
It's 100% acrylic. Crazy penetration. Harder than heck, but with just a touch of give/flex. But it retails for about $150/gallon.
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
I'm getting my house painted soon and some of the soffets and facia boards are weather damaged. I really don't want to replace them; are there any primers or exterior house paints that can seal and penetrate damaged wood? Thanks!.....A few facia boards are pretty rotted, but they're on a ridge part of the roof that would be a bear to replace. They're right where I just got new gutters put on as well; I don't want to pull the new gutters off.
I replaced my roof this past Summer on my single story ranch. Did all the work myself. Had to repair five mitered corner joints where the rake & fascia meet. I considered epoxy, catalyzed paste (bondo for wood) and cutting them out and going back with new wood. I chose #3.
The reason they rotted is that the original roofers didn't use any metal flashing what-so-ever. Over time water leaked in instead of rolling off and rotted them from the miter joint out. These were too far gone to pour anything in from above, without using a form to hold in epoxy, for example.
Minwax wood conditioner is a great product for firming up punky wood and sealing it. I used it in a few places where there was minor surface rot that I dug out first.
Post a photo of the damaged wood as I'm having a hard time picturing gutters near a ridge.
Do you ever get ice dams in your gutters? You may well have to remove the gutter(s) to effect a repair and maybe some shingles. Depends. Post a photo.
As far as paint goes, primers job is help paint adhere to bare wood. It doesn't completely dry hard so the paint will adhere to it better. Neither primer nor paint will 'soak' into nor 'repair' rotted wood. It'll just flake off as there's nothing solid to adhere to.
I'm getting my house painted soon and some of the soffets and facia boards are weather damaged. I really don't want to replace them; are there any primers or exterior house paints that can seal and penetrate damaged wood? Thanks!.....A few facia boards are pretty rotted, but they're on a ridge part of the roof that would be a bear to replace. They're right where I just got new gutters put on as well; I don't want to pull the new gutters off.
I replaced my roof this past Summer on my single story ranch. Did all the work myself. Had to repair five mitered corner joints where the rake & fascia meet. I considered epoxy, catalyzed paste (bondo for wood) and cutting them out and going back with new wood. I chose #3.
The reason they rotted is that the original roofers didn't use any metal flashing what-so-ever. Over time water leaked in instead of rolling off and rotted them from the miter joint out. These were too far gone to pour anything in from above, without using a form to hold in epoxy, for example.
Minwax wood conditioner is a great product for firming up punky wood and sealing it. I used it in a few places where there was minor surface rot that I dug out first.
Post a photo of the damaged wood as I'm having a hard time picturing gutters near a ridge.
Do you ever get ice dams in your gutters? You may well have to remove the gutter(s) to effect a repair and maybe some shingles. Depends. Post a photo.
As far as paint goes, primers job is help paint adhere to bare wood. It doesn't completely dry hard so the paint will adhere to it better. Neither primer nor paint will 'soak' into nor 'repair' rotted wood. It'll just flake off as there's nothing solid to adhere to.
I painted my house this past Summer. I had some high up trim that all the paint was gone. First coat was a flat latex. Basically a primer. Then two coats of Sherwin Williams Super Paint.
Sherwin Williams is pricey. 4 times a year they have 40% off all paint. That's when I buy mine.
Sherwin Williams is pricey. 4 times a year they have 40% off all paint. That's when I buy mine.
Originally Posted By: rshaw125
I painted my house this past Summer. I had some high up trim that all the paint was gone. First coat was a flat latex. Basically a primer. Then two coats of Sherwin Williams Super Paint.
Sherwin Williams is pricey. 4 times a year they have 40% off all paint. That's when I buy mine.
Great minds think alike. I am prepping the wood work for coats of Sherwin Williams 40 % off paint. I'm slow as molasses, plus I got de-railed onto more immediate projects. I started on the back end of the ell last year and have moved onto the front of the house. I found some damage that has to be addressed before paint. The local SW outlet has our color codes. I found the paint going on and covering quite well.
I painted my house this past Summer. I had some high up trim that all the paint was gone. First coat was a flat latex. Basically a primer. Then two coats of Sherwin Williams Super Paint.
Sherwin Williams is pricey. 4 times a year they have 40% off all paint. That's when I buy mine.
Great minds think alike. I am prepping the wood work for coats of Sherwin Williams 40 % off paint. I'm slow as molasses, plus I got de-railed onto more immediate projects. I started on the back end of the ell last year and have moved onto the front of the house. I found some damage that has to be addressed before paint. The local SW outlet has our color codes. I found the paint going on and covering quite well.
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
I'll take your guy's advice and wait till spring. It's been unusually warm here recently; that's why I wanted to get it done, but if it would be better to wait, I will. demarpaint, do you have a preferred brand of primer or wood sealer? Thanks; I appreciate the advice from a professional.
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I'll take your guy's advice and wait till spring. It's been unusually warm here recently; that's why I wanted to get it done, but if it would be better to wait, I will. demarpaint, do you have a preferred brand of primer or wood sealer? Thanks; I appreciate the advice from a professional.
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Wait till warmer weather, for sure.
There are wood hardener products for rotton or porous wood - they work great. Brush on, let soak real good, and repeat - let dry thoroughly. Plain old Bondo can be used for cracks [fill]- it is great.
I love Behr Ultra Premium exterior in satin - it has primer added also. 1/2$ of Benjamin Moore, and I think superior.
A really really good exterior product. But it at Home Cheapo
Wait till warmer weather, for sure.
There are wood hardener products for rotton or porous wood - they work great. Brush on, let soak real good, and repeat - let dry thoroughly. Plain old Bondo can be used for cracks [fill]- it is great.
I love Behr Ultra Premium exterior in satin - it has primer added also. 1/2$ of Benjamin Moore, and I think superior.
A really really good exterior product. But it at Home Cheapo
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