ALS:
You are probably correct: Auto-Rx's active ingredient probably depletes itself as more and more contaminant gets liquefied and taken out of circulation. Through personal experience and feedback from users, Frank has probably observed that for typical concentrations in typical engines, by 750 miles all the Auto-Rx has become “used up” through its reaction with crud. If as you say, the chemical process gets stopped at 750 miles, then it does indeed make sense to drain it and add a fresh dose to deal with any residual or newly formed contaminants.
That makes sense however it doesn’t answer my question. Here’s the point I was trying to make regarding my Geo Metro: applying High School Logic to your High School Chemistry leads to one conclusion: if the engine in question contains only a tiny amount of contaminants, then after 750 miles, those contaminants will have reacted and be flushed away however there must still be plenty of Auto-Rx’s active ingredient left in the engine. To my cheapskate way of thinking, that unused Auto-Rx should be left in to act as the “maintenance dose” normally prescribed for dealing with newly formed contaminant.
I’m delighted that Auto-Rx stopped the oil leak on my wife’s Lexus however the jury’s still out on how well it worked in my Geo Metro. When I first added Auto-Rx to the Geo there was a thin film of varnish covering the valve train. I haven’t noticed any change at all in its appearance or hardness ... perhaps it just needs more time to be liquefied?
The Geo’s tiny, 3-cylinder engine is in good condition and doesn’t burn any oil at all. It probably has less than half the internal surface area of typical engines so it’s fair to conclude that there’s less than half of “the number of "moles of contaminant" inside it that are in need of liquefaction. Based on your explanation, wouldn’t it make sense to let the still unused active ingredients continue to work inside the engine?
Anyone who drives a Geo Metro is cheap by nature. I don’t mind putting in the second bottle but not until the first one has stopped working. Unless I’m misunderstanding something here, it seems best to just change the filter and let the reaction continue. I’ll monitor the appearance and hardness of the varnish inside the valve cover and post my findings.
Peter