Explorer didn't want to start

[merc80]

I'll make a long story short... Saturday night my wife calls from Target saying her truck wouldn't start, it's a '95 explorer.

I get there and tried to start it, and nothing happens. It doesn't make a sound, and the voltmeter on the instrument panel barely moves. It doesn't show actual volts, just Low and High, but was about where it normally would be with the vehicle off. I tried to jump start it, again same thing happens, nothing. I traced a wire back to the starter, and tried to hear if it was engaging when she tried to start it(w/ jumper cables disconnected). Lo and behold, it fires right up.

My question is, just what the heck happened? I really didn't do anything except maybe wiggle a couple wires. I didn't see much corrosion on any of the wires. I'd just like to know what happened, and fix it so that it doesn't happen again. The battery is only 5 months old, it's an AAP titanium. It was cool that night, but a little bit above freezing.

This all happened a Saturday night, and since then it's been fine. The weather has cooled off a good bit since then, and the problem has not re-ocurred.

Any ideas or advice?

 

[daman]

Dunno...recheck all your wires and starter connections,
sounds like just a bad connection somewhere.

 

[CBDFrontier06]

My Eclipse did this from time to time...it was a battery cable that wasn't quite making full contact with the battery post. I guess vibrations, temp changes, etc. would work it loose and I'd go outside to start the car and it would show no signs of life. I'd pop the hood, wiggle the negative lead and everything worked for another month or so. I tightened this thing numerous times, finally just wrote it off as "one of those things".

 

[Quest]

starter solenoid contact problems or relay problems, or last but not least: ignition key tumbler switch problems.

 

[eljefino]

Also look for neutral safety switch issues. Try starting in "N" instead of "P" anytime something like this pops up.

 

[merc80]

Thanks for all the advice, I'll check the contacts this weekend. Hopefully it was just a one time thing, but I'd like to make sure it's not a symptom of some bigger problem.

 

[punisher]

If you have the solenoid wire that connected via a spade terminal, (vs the wire that is held on with a nut) you have likely already fixed it by wiggling the wire. The spade connector is notorious for causing intermittent no crank situations due to corrosion not really visible to the naked eye sometimes. Usual fix, unplug the wire from the solenoid, with small pliers or a pocket screwdriver crimp the female connector a bit,apply some silicone grease and reinstall.

eljefino offers good advice as well if you suspect a neutral safety switch.

 

[alreadygone]

Gonna bet punisher has furnished correct information. As he stated this has been a Ford problem for several years, especially for approx. your model. Wire he's refering to is on solenoid activation wire where it connects to starter.
(small, but I don't remember color) Spade trerminal is encased in large plastic insulator, best fix is to cut it off and replace with aftermarket spade end. Replaced 2 or 3 starters on 2 different vehicles before asking dealership what was going on. (back about 6-8 years ago)

Bob

 

[merc80]

I'll check the terminals this weekend, and if there's any doubt I'll replace them.

eljefino, I'll try that if it happens again. That thought had never even crossed my mind as a possibility.

Thanks all.

 

[kc8adu]

i take emery cloth to the terminals and a few swipes with a deoxit pen.
if the female side is loose restore tension by squeezing lightly with pliers.or prying with a thin scewdriver.
i often treat every connector i can reach with deoxit and work em a few times.follow with dielectric grease.
keeps the gremlins away.

 

[alreadygone]

kc8adu,

This particular connector is tensioned by plastic insulator/body, That's why it needs cut off and replaced with all metal plastic covered spade.

Bob

 

[Trav]

The fact the volt gauge didn't move makes me suspect the connections,of course that would depend on where the gauge is hooked up to.IMO if the Neutral switch was iffy i think you would still have a voltage reading.