Even more of an Auto RX believer now

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(this was also posted on the Auto RX board yesterday)

My moms car, a 2002 Subaru Outback L.L Bean edition, which has the 3.0 liter H6 engine, has had a slight squeal to it for a while. Recently, it had become louder, and she said it sounded as if it were coming from more than one source. I had personally heard the squeal before, but it was never as loud as it now was. I popped the hood, and with the car running I put my ear near the alternator to try to pinpoint the location of the sound. I traced it to the serpentine belt idler pulley. I removed the belt, and spun the pulley by hand, and it was quite clear that the bearing was shot, as it felt full of grit. I replaced that pulley yesterday, but because the factory pulley was unavailable, I had to use an aftermarket part that was 2mm larger in diameter. I was worried that this would put too much strain on the tensioner because the belt was very difficult to reinstall, and that suspicion was confirmed when the extra strain caused the tensioner pulley to emit a similar sound to the worn out idler pulley. It was late, and all of the part stores were closed. I figured another day of driving wouldn't hurt, since I was going to replace the other pulley anyway.

Today, I replaced the second pulley, but this time with a 76mm unit to take some of the pressure off of the belt and bearings. Now the belt squeal was completely gone. But another squeal was heard....

This was the sound that I was familiar with, having driven the car 6 months prior when the sound had originally started. I once again put my ear near the alternator to have a listen. This time it definitely wasn't coming from the front of the engine, which had me quite worried. I checked the transmission fluid level, which was right where it should be, and the fluid looked brand new. I knew the sound had to be coming from the transmission, so I went ahead and added 6 ounces of Auto-RX to the fluid. I started the car and let it idle for a few minutes. The squeal actually became intermittent while I was standing there listening. I backed the car out of the garage and took it for a short 2 mile drive, and to my surprise the squeal at idle was completely gone, yet when I revved the engine it was still there at higher RPM. I continued driving to get the transmission nice and warm; driving a total of 14 miles before pulling back into her garage. When I returned to the house I revved the engine several times, and the squeal was GONE! I asked her to come out and listen for herself, and she was completely amazed. She had lived with the sound for months thinking it was just the serpentine belt, even taking it to the dealer, who could not find the source of the problem.

If we had taken it back for this squeal again it probably would have cost thousands of dollars for them to drop the transmission, and they probably would have replaced parts at random to find the cause, or would have replaced a bunch of parts at one time.

I will report back as to whether the sound is still gone once more miles have been put on the car.
 
I just heard from my mother, and she said that there was absolutely no squeal this morning when she started the car to head to work, in -15F temperatures.

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Something I'm curious about, how bad would it be to leave the Auto RX in until the next change?

Something I've considered doing is draining the fluid, filtering it, then reusing until it comes time to actually change it. It looks brand new right now and seems like a waste to dump it after 1k.
 
Good question. I'd imagine that it would depend on what material was liberated in the cleaning. There is no filtration to speak of in automatics ..so one would probably want to get whatever it was out of the trans. OTOH, if it's not that much ..but some localized problem spot ..it would probably be fine ..or rather "not unfavorable" (there's a difference).

Install a Magnefine or some other auxiliary filtration.
 
Hmm, engines don't squeal belts do. 99% of the time a squeal or similar noise is belt related. Belts can look great but just sit wrong on the pulleys etc and squeal and the only way to stop it is replace the belts
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Something I'm curious about, how bad would it be to leave the Auto RX in until the next change?


I don't think there is anything wrong with leaving it in there until the next oil change, I left it in my transmission for 7k and didn't have any issues
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Originally Posted By: Spector
Hmm, engines don't squeal belts do. 99% of the time a squeal or similar noise is belt related. Belts can look great but just sit wrong on the pulleys etc and squeal and the only way to stop it is replace the belts


The idler pulley bearing was so messed up that it wasn't spinning fast enough, and it caused the surface of the pulley to get quite glazed. The belt itself is pretty glazed looking, so it's probably going to get replaced anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
I think bullwinkle topped that by about 20k or so.
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Same here, exept mine was also mixed w/ Lubegrad red.
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I don't know. It's kinda hard to diagnose a squeal over the internet.
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I shall restrain my first comment, but...

If auto-rx is good for an AT in general (and I'm not saying it isn't) then how about putting it in a new AT (no cleaning to do) and leave it there for the full ATF usage interval, say 30k miles?
 
Originally Posted By: BearZDefect
I shall restrain my first comment, but...

If auto-rx is good for an AT in general (and I'm not saying it isn't) then how about putting it in a new AT (no cleaning to do) and leave it there for the full ATF usage interval, say 30k miles?


Maintenance Dose
 
You can leave the ARX in indefinitely. But the magic likely stops after around 3,000 miles. After that, you're running on the host fluid, which may or may not be depleted. If it is or when it does, then all the good work that the ARX did starts to get undone.

I usually drop in ARX about 1,500-2,000 before a scheduled fluid change. Then I know that the fresh fluid is going into a clean box.
 
Thanks for the replies.

c3po, I was aware of a maintenance dose for engines but not for transmissions.

Volvohead, if the transmission is clean to start with why would arx get depleted in 3k miles? I am assuming a like new transmission with fresh ATF.
 
If the trans is clean (or new) to start with, then the ARX doesn't have much to do. It's basically a giant (and possibly wasteful depending on system capacity) maintenance dose. You might even be better off using LC in that circumstance, as this is a high oxidation environment. But some units do benefit from the higher lubricity of ARX. Depends on what you need for the particular ATX or hydraulic system.

My statement was for examples that need cleaning and/or have deposit related "issues". Sorry if I confused anyone.
 
I'm going to look into adding an external filter to make sure the particles get removed from the fluid. I don't know if such a thing is available in a kit for this car, so I may have to make one myself using an oil filter relocation kit. A Magnefine filter might also be an option.
 
Originally Posted By: BearZDefect
Thanks for the replies.

c3po, I was aware of a maintenance dose for engines but not for transmissions.

Volvohead, if the transmission is clean to start with why would arx get depleted in 3k miles? I am assuming a like new transmission with fresh ATF.


I might have to rethink this, I was originally thinking about 1 ounce of Auto-Rx in the transmission, but now I am thinking that adding it 2000 miles before a fluid change might be better, this could be a debateable topic.
 
My 99 Buick Regal LS has 168,000 miles and have changed the transmission fluid 2 times i now run 3 ounces of Auto-Rx in the fluid as a maintenance dose (this car was a rental and never taken care of) please remember Auto-Rx turns any particulates into liquid form. Transmission Fluid is base hydraulic oil combined with the additive package of sellers choice. I am biased so i go with the additive package in Auto-Rx.

You don't want to use solvents in AT units. Clutch Packs-Seals all vulnerable.Plus what are you going to do with the particulates ?
they are not going to drain out completely.
 
Frank, thanks for your response here.

It appears you approve of a maintenance dose of auto-rx in automatic transmissions.

In this thread nobody suggested using a solvent. I certainly would not put a solvent in a transmission. Closest it might get is to clean a removed pan, but even that I just wipe it off with clean rags.


chevrofreak, please do give us a follow-up report in a few months!
 
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