Well, while driving home from the Eye doctor's yesterday with dilated pupils, in my 1996 Blazer my engine oil cooler line blew and I lost all the oil and the engine shut down. Upon replacing the line and new oil, the engine starts and idles fine, easing on the gas is fine, but if I just sit and throttle the peddle there is bottom end noise. Any suggestions on which way to go with this? Run it, replace with new or used???
Engine problem !!!!
- Thread starter DoubleDee
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Are you sure that this noise wasn't there before and you didn't notice it because you had no reason to try and notice it? I'd just drive it, as long as it's running fine. If and when the problem worsens, I'd worry about it then.
Some cars are designed to quit running when they lose oil pressure. I think it's a good feature. Based on that, I don't see how you could have hurt anything but it still doesn't explain the noise. My sons VW has a remote filter and twice he has blown the highside line and lost all the oil in seconds but he stopped right away and it never hurt the car at all.
The engine may have shut down but it is still possible to have spun a bearing. That would account for the bottom end noise when you load and unload the engine by revving it as you described.
If you were idling along in traffic and lost oil pressure it would be different than if you were on the freeway and lost oil pressure. Engine rpms would definitely play a role in what damage may have happened.
If it does have damage, you may as well try to run it for a while to see what happens. It may make noise and still run OK. Doesn't really matter, because you be replacing it anyway.
If you were idling along in traffic and lost oil pressure it would be different than if you were on the freeway and lost oil pressure. Engine rpms would definitely play a role in what damage may have happened.
If it does have damage, you may as well try to run it for a while to see what happens. It may make noise and still run OK. Doesn't really matter, because you be replacing it anyway.
How do you use the car,local or long commutes or trips? If the motor truly has a problem then the cost for r@r should be equal so if the engine is bad a crate motor is usually better than a rebuilt motor, what is the mileage on the car? what shape is it in? what is the value of a 10 year old Blazer? I would run it till the noise gets worse.
It is a 96 LT in excellent condition. It has 79,000 miles and is worth wholesale in the $4-5k range. A used engine is going to cost me about $2500 installed and a Jasper or GM crate is going to be @ $4000. I drive back and forth to work about 12 miles, and tow a 14" aluminum boat in the summer. Is there something I can do to possibly make it last longer, or just keep the same oil in it and drive???
By shut down, do you mean it shut off itself, or you turned it off? How long with no oil pressure? Unless you drove for several minutes with no oil, I'd say it's just fine. Everytime you change the oil filter in a Blazer with the remote mounted filter, you're going for about 5 to 10 seconds with no oil pressure.
When I noticed the dim light on the dash and was unable read the gages, the engine shut down by itself. I am pretty sure the noise was not there before but I don't often sit and throttle the engine.
is it a hard knock? you could try a diff brand of oil like a havoline (which seems to the quite pick for pushrod gm engines) in a 10/40 or 20/50 and cheap filter. that may buy you some time. my sister had a buick regal with the small v6 that had a knock that lasted till rest of the car was junk. we ran a heavy oil in it and bottle of motor honey. that was then.. it ran good for her for a few more years.
if you dont have the tools or knowledge find a good mechanic or friend that will check the oil pressure with a real guage and listen accordingly. it may cost you 2 hours of tech time but maybe well worth $. if it is fatal, i wouldnt put a new engine in it. there are tons of good in the junkyard that could be had for much less. check car-part.com for a rough estimate. blazers have a terrible resale value in the midwest and can be had for very little here. your worth can be much different. use your best judgement.
personally, i'd run it with a diff oil till it was done and then donate it and take the tax break..
if you dont have the tools or knowledge find a good mechanic or friend that will check the oil pressure with a real guage and listen accordingly. it may cost you 2 hours of tech time but maybe well worth $. if it is fatal, i wouldnt put a new engine in it. there are tons of good in the junkyard that could be had for much less. check car-part.com for a rough estimate. blazers have a terrible resale value in the midwest and can be had for very little here. your worth can be much different. use your best judgement.
personally, i'd run it with a diff oil till it was done and then donate it and take the tax break..
Along with what Gary sez . . . are the tires/shocks/brakes new? Is the AC cold? Have all the fluids been changed this past year? Does every single electrical item work properly? Are their any water leaks to interior? Sandblasted windshield?
Front end will need no work whatsoever? (Steering is tight, etc).
Under the hood, no greasy wires; some or a lot of the engine-driven accessories have already been replaced (alternator, PSF pump, etc); radiator is only a couple of years old?
Drivers seat not sagging, drivers shoulder belt shows no wear, etc?
This is the kind of list I'd run down. Low mileage doesn't mean too much to me. Time (age) is more important at some point.
Figure on 15-years of use, that means about 2010 or 2011 at oldest.
So, with cost of engine, and any other repairs needed between now and 2010 (not maintenance), will the per year expense -- and time spent out-of-service [rentals, etc] -- be acceptable?
At 75,000 miles OR ten years I figure rubber bushings to have lived their life: anti-roll bars, body-frame, etc.
(Don't forget safety in all this. An SUV of that vintage is not in the same category of roll-over resistant, or as well-equipped with air-bags, stability control, etc as a new one).
Though the mileage is about one-half the national per driver annual average, it may be that it has served you. I hated having to total our 2001 JEEP Cherokee at four-years and 100,000 miles, but the damage from a wreck was too substantial.
I could have done it, but . . . .
Front end will need no work whatsoever? (Steering is tight, etc).
Under the hood, no greasy wires; some or a lot of the engine-driven accessories have already been replaced (alternator, PSF pump, etc); radiator is only a couple of years old?
Drivers seat not sagging, drivers shoulder belt shows no wear, etc?
This is the kind of list I'd run down. Low mileage doesn't mean too much to me. Time (age) is more important at some point.
Figure on 15-years of use, that means about 2010 or 2011 at oldest.
So, with cost of engine, and any other repairs needed between now and 2010 (not maintenance), will the per year expense -- and time spent out-of-service [rentals, etc] -- be acceptable?
At 75,000 miles OR ten years I figure rubber bushings to have lived their life: anti-roll bars, body-frame, etc.
(Don't forget safety in all this. An SUV of that vintage is not in the same category of roll-over resistant, or as well-equipped with air-bags, stability control, etc as a new one).
Though the mileage is about one-half the national per driver annual average, it may be that it has served you. I hated having to total our 2001 JEEP Cherokee at four-years and 100,000 miles, but the damage from a wreck was too substantial.
I could have done it, but . . . .
To give you an idea as to the true condition:
New Bilstein shocks all the way around, 4 months old, New Radiator with fluid switch to green 5 months old, alternator 1.5 years old, both upper ball joints 1.5 years old, new Delco plugs and wires, 1 years old, new delco coil 1 year old, Specialty Formulations fluid in transmission, 5 months old, gear oil 1 year old, front brakes 1 year old, oil change with analysis 3-4k, leather interior barely a noticeable wear mark, all carpeting intact with no stains or tears, all power equipment is fully functional, steering wheel shows no wear, no sagging of any items, exterior paint on all sides and rear is flawless, hood has approx 10 chips but not a spot of rust on the entire vehicle. The vehicle has great eye appeal and did run like a champ. But I can't see putting $4K in an engine, possibly $2-$2500. Is what I just stated above justification for the expense, or is it just ramblings of a proud owner??
New Bilstein shocks all the way around, 4 months old, New Radiator with fluid switch to green 5 months old, alternator 1.5 years old, both upper ball joints 1.5 years old, new Delco plugs and wires, 1 years old, new delco coil 1 year old, Specialty Formulations fluid in transmission, 5 months old, gear oil 1 year old, front brakes 1 year old, oil change with analysis 3-4k, leather interior barely a noticeable wear mark, all carpeting intact with no stains or tears, all power equipment is fully functional, steering wheel shows no wear, no sagging of any items, exterior paint on all sides and rear is flawless, hood has approx 10 chips but not a spot of rust on the entire vehicle. The vehicle has great eye appeal and did run like a champ. But I can't see putting $4K in an engine, possibly $2-$2500. Is what I just stated above justification for the expense, or is it just ramblings of a proud owner??
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In regards to a new engine (reman -crate - whatever) I'd look at what you're going to spend on something else. This is what I went through with my minivan. I didn't want to spend $2200 for a long block ..but otherwise it was the junkyard (for the engine or the minivan). Since I'm not doing the work myself, labor costs are an item to be minimized. I only want to do this once ..so the option was to do the long block or shop for another fetch-it vehicle (two jeeps are the other DD's and they don't fit anything aside from the passengers well). I cannot get another minivan in the same or better condition for the $2500 range of purchase....so a long block it is
So, I'd look at what $4000 gets you for another vehicle and if it's as good as what you have now. If not ..then that kinda indicates that you're on the plus side with the new engine. You may never get the full life out of the engine, but within about 2-3 years (much shorter if placed up against NEW or newer used) you will have gotten your money's worth.
So, I'd look at what $4000 gets you for another vehicle and if it's as good as what you have now. If not ..then that kinda indicates that you're on the plus side with the new engine. You may never get the full life out of the engine, but within about 2-3 years (much shorter if placed up against NEW or newer used) you will have gotten your money's worth.
Sounds like the lack of oil pressure ruined some bearings.
Sorry.
Sorry.
it sounds like you already made up your mind. get someone to check it out to make sure your not hearing things or missed something. then price out a good used engine if its fatal. with your short trip to work i'd probably drive it and get it towed if it dumps. these are a dime a dozen and there is a ton of lower mileage engines to be had. a better salvage yard will offer a waranty and a extended warranty for a little more.
I take it you have the 4.3? Might check out junkyard interchanges to see how new a motor might drop in without problems.
For my 95 saturn for example the block and head match up to 02 and I'd keep my orignal manifolds, sensors and injectors. I can buy a 40k mile motor for $500 if I look hard enough.
Creepy as it sounds, you can have the junkyard mechanics do all the work, this truck sounds like it's worth saving. This is right up their alley. Just get a written warranty on the replacement. And junkyards have an endless supply of free-to-them parts in case they bust a bracket or something.
For my 95 saturn for example the block and head match up to 02 and I'd keep my orignal manifolds, sensors and injectors. I can buy a 40k mile motor for $500 if I look hard enough.
Creepy as it sounds, you can have the junkyard mechanics do all the work, this truck sounds like it's worth saving. This is right up their alley. Just get a written warranty on the replacement. And junkyards have an endless supply of free-to-them parts in case they bust a bracket or something.
DoubleDee,
Does your blazer have a built it oil pressure gage on your instrument cluster? The reason why I ask is because the oil pressure at idle would tell you whether or not you have any damage to the bearings. You're looking for at least 45psi at idle speeds with a fully warmed up motor.
Do you have any lifter tick? Those hydraulic lifters are at the end of the oil route; so if you have any lifter noise at all, that is a sign of lost oil pressure. If your lifters are quiet, then usually that means you have good oil pressure. I mention this just in case you are not able to get an oil pressure reading right away.
Does your blazer have a built it oil pressure gage on your instrument cluster? The reason why I ask is because the oil pressure at idle would tell you whether or not you have any damage to the bearings. You're looking for at least 45psi at idle speeds with a fully warmed up motor.
Do you have any lifter tick? Those hydraulic lifters are at the end of the oil route; so if you have any lifter noise at all, that is a sign of lost oil pressure. If your lifters are quiet, then usually that means you have good oil pressure. I mention this just in case you are not able to get an oil pressure reading right away.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Like GoldenRod says, get a read on your oil pressure. If your oil press is ok, your bearings are ok. Those hoses are a very common failure point on these trucks.
Joel
Joel
Sorry for the delay, just got back from an overnight trip for my daughters college orientation.
Yes I do have an oil pressure gage in the cluster and it reads the same as it was prior to this. Cold start pressure is 60 psi. At idle when warm, 40psi, at any throttle, 60psi. There is no lifter tick at all. When I apply a hard throttle I hear the thumping from the bottom end.
Still very unsure what to do????
Yes I do have an oil pressure gage in the cluster and it reads the same as it was prior to this. Cold start pressure is 60 psi. At idle when warm, 40psi, at any throttle, 60psi. There is no lifter tick at all. When I apply a hard throttle I hear the thumping from the bottom end.
Still very unsure what to do????
good pressure doesnt mean no bearing issues.
i have seen them spun to shreds and still hold good pressure.
get it on a lift and investigate further.
a neighbor just got a nice buick park av at auction cheap as it had "engine knocks" scrawled on the windshield.
it had a disintigrated damper/pulley.
i put pressure on it with an ax handle and it quiets down.
sounds bad that the noise happened after the cooler line failure but jumping to conclusion can be costly.i have gotten cars cheap that were given up on for a rod knock that was nothing more than a misfire rocking the engine on its mounts and banging a pipe on the body!
i have seen them spun to shreds and still hold good pressure.
get it on a lift and investigate further.
a neighbor just got a nice buick park av at auction cheap as it had "engine knocks" scrawled on the windshield.
it had a disintigrated damper/pulley.
i put pressure on it with an ax handle and it quiets down.
sounds bad that the noise happened after the cooler line failure but jumping to conclusion can be costly.i have gotten cars cheap that were given up on for a rod knock that was nothing more than a misfire rocking the engine on its mounts and banging a pipe on the body!
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