Engine Oil Help! 2014 BMW x3 xdrive 28i f25 (n20)

[AtomicMilk]

Hey everyone, I have been scouring the internet trying to find the best oil for my car. Usually I have the dealer change my oil/filter but I want to become a little more educated on maintenance for the future.
I have a 2014 BMW x3 xdrive28i with the n20 engine with about 150k miles on it. I need some advice on what engine oil to use.
I live on the west coast with a warm environment, and so far, I've been reading that 0w-20 LL 17FE+ is now the preferred oil, but have also seen that it does not provide adequate protection for the timing chain which tends to go bad in the high mileage.
Any recommendations would be great! Thanks

 

[Andyd95]

0w40 M1/Mann filter

 

[maineiac]

I’m running HPL 5w40 Euro and a Carquest Premium oil filter in my ’20 X3 M40i.

 

[AtomicMilk]

0w40 M1

is this the M1 FS 0w40? is 40 too thick?

 

[edyvw]

is this the M1 FS 0w40? is 40 too thick?

It is not thick. Engines can use thicker oil, but not thinner than recommended.
N20 used in the beginning LL01 oil. BMW used TPT 5W30. Later, they moved to LL01FE (FE stands for fuel efficiency). Then they moved to LL17FE.
I would run definitely LL01 as those timing chain guides will like that. Personally, I would go Castrol Edge 0W30 that you can find in Advance Auto Parts for $37 for 5qt. Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 in the same store for the same price would be my next choice.
If not, Mobil1 0W40 from Wal Mart.

 

[GR_CoB]

It is not thick. Engines can use thicker oil, but not thinner than recommended.
N20 used in the beginning LL01 oil. BMW used TPT 5W30. Later, they moved to LL01FE (FE stands for fuel efficiency). Then they moved to LL17FE.
I would run definitely LL01 as those timing chain guides will like that. Personally, I would go Castrol Edge 0W30 that you can find in Advance Auto Parts for $37 for 5qt. Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 in the same store for the same price would be my next choice.
If not, Mobil1 0W40 from Wal Mart.

^This 100%. But regardless of oil choice - N20 timing chain job is very close on the horizon, given the mileage and life on 0W20 til now. A good Euro shop will do a better and cheaper job than a dealership, (90% of the time.) And then with new updated timing components just stick to LL01 oils as mentioned above.

 

[BISCUT]

^This 100%. But regardless of oil choice - N20 timing chain job is very close on the horizon, given the mileage and life on 0W20 til now. A good Euro shop will do a better and cheaper job than a dealership, (90% of the time.) And then with new updated timing components just stick to LL01 oils as mentioned above.

I have the same vehicle I recently bought, which had 74k in January. I am running Mobil 1 0-40 with 6k OCI. I'm at 79k, and the next OCI is coming up. I'm sure you've noticed the N20 runs a bit warm. I would use a good 30wt but prefer the 40 for this engine. My understanding of the N20 issue is that the plastig guides are subpar, not so much the chains. Do you know if your N20 had the service under the extended warranty?

 

[edyvw]

I have the same vehicle I recently bought, which had 74k in January. I am running Mobil 1 0-40 with 6k OCI. I'm at 79k, and the next OCI is coming up. I'm sure you've noticed the N20 runs a bit warm. I would use a good 30wt but prefer the 40 for this engine. My understanding of the N20 issue is that the plastig guides are subpar, not so much the chains. Do you know if your N20 had the service under the extended warranty?

All BMW’s will run hot! The easier you drive them, the hotter it gets as DME puts water pump in efficiency mode to increase temperature and help mpg.
That is why around 100k you should replace all hoses, coolant reservoir and Mickey Mouse flange (install aluminum one).

 

[Marcozi]

I have the same vehicle I recently bought, which had 74k in January. I am running Mobil 1 0-40 with 6k OCI. I'm at 79k, and the next OCI is coming up. I'm sure you've noticed the N20 runs a bit warm. I would use a good 30wt but prefer the 40 for this engine. My understanding of the N20 issue is that the plastig guides are subpar, not so much the chains. Do you know if your N20 had the service under the extended warranty?

Check the NHTSA website for recalls. Contact the dealer to see if there's an extended warranty on the engine.

 

[BISCUT]

All BMW’s will run hot! The easier you drive them, the hotter it gets as DME puts water pump in efficiency mode to increase temperature and help mpg.
That is why around 100k you should replace all hoses, coolant reservoir and Mickey Mouse flange (install aluminum one).

Absolutely!! Planning on it at 100k. I really like the ZF trans but not so much the forced high rpm even downhill at low speed when warming up.

 

[BISCUT]

Check the NHTSA website for recalls. Contact the dealer to see if there's an extended warranty on the engine.

Basic search provides the info on the extended warranty. I'm past it and OP would be as well. Key is whether it was corrected or if he has original equipment.

 

[AtomicMilk]

wow thanks for the information guys. im gonna go for the pennzoil platinum euro 5w40. i appreciate it folks!

 

[FlyingTexan]

Hey everyone, I have been scouring the internet trying to find the best oil for my car. Usually I have the dealer change my oil/filter but I want to become a little more educated on maintenance for the future.
I have a 2014 BMW x3 xdrive28i with the n20 engine with about 150k miles on it. I need some advice on what engine oil to use.
I live on the west coast with a warm environment, and so far, I've been reading that 0w-20 LL 17FE+ is now the preferred oil, but have also seen that it does not provide adequate protection for the timing chain which tends to go bad in the high mileage.
Any recommendations would be great! Thanks

The cheap but fantastic option is QS Euro. I'm a fanboy of it, I'll admit.

Has BMW LL01/Mercedes 229.3 and 229.5 (someone else can tell me the diff), and Porsche A40.

I currently run it in my 227k mile pickup and ran it in my B58 for a bit. Only real reason I'm not is because I've been using FCP Euro's oils to take advantage of their program. I found Red Line 5w30 to be a little smoother, can't say that means any better protection, and will doing Motul's 5w30 300v next. I do 5k OCI and change my oil myself and frankly my engine LOVES the redline oil but the bottle is such a PITA I'm going to try Motul on a 5k OCI because the can is much easier to work with. After that may try the forsaken Liqui Moly since it carries all the same approvals I mentioned above. You can't go wrong with them.