Engine flush/Lifter clacking

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Hello everybody,
I have a problem. Engine sat for about 5 years. Changed oil and filter, cleaned gas tank,new fuel.Engine starts and runs fine.After about an hour lifters started clacking. Oil pressure at idle 35-45 psi.Chevy 400. Local guy says "collapsed lifters"
Flush engine and service with new oil. Good to go. Is this valid?
Or do I change lifters?
Ysirogerg
 
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It won't hurt to try. Or you could do a slow clean with A-Rx which would be the safer way. I certainly would try some sort of flush or cleaning procedure before replacing the lifters.
 
Welcome to the Forum!

I agree with the oil change part, i would be nervious about using some harsh engine flush in a engine that has sat for five years.

Some folks might put in Marvel Mystery Oil, Sea foam or Auto RX and then change the oil.

I personally would try the the sea foam, idle it for a while then change the oil. And perhaps do that a couple of times.

Duane
 
I have a 400 in my old Caprice (1973). How many miles have you driven it? If you have a good oil in there like Valvoline Maxlife it should clear up. The more you drive it the better.
 
B-12 for a 10 minute flush.

Or, (I keep suggesting this, hoping somebody will try it) Fill the crankcase up with diesel, turn the engine over, let it sit overnight, drain and fill with cheap dino drive on a long trip for a couple hundred miles, come back and drain and fill with the oil of your choice.
 
i agree with the drain crankcase, completely fill to top with diesel, remove plugs, fill cylinders with diesel, let sit overnight, disconnect distributor, turn over engine several times, then drain the mess, which will be very black. fill with 5w30, any cheap dino, run for a few hours, drain, again it will come out very black, and this time replace with nice synthetic oil. engine will run like new.

if above treatment fails, and it usually works great, then think of doing something more drastic, like the lifter thing u mentioned.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: scoobie
i agree with the drain crankcase, completely fill to top with diesel, remove plugs, fill cylinders with diesel, let sit overnight, disconnect distributor, turn over engine several times, then drain the mess, which will be very black. fill with 5w30, any cheap dino, run for a few hours, drain, again it will come out very black, and this time replace with nice synthetic oil. engine will run like new.

if above treatment fails, and it usually works great, then think of doing something more drastic, like the lifter thing u mentioned.


Wow, never heard this one before, but if you are going to do this, you have to picture where the lifters sit in a pushrod v8. When he says fill it up, he really means fill it up. you'd have to fill the engine to the point that diesel fuel is coming out of the valve cover fill hole in order to submerge the lifters.

Also, if you're going to do this, you'll want to hand crank it, not with the starter. Otherwise you're going to shoot diesel fuel out of the spark plug holes and probably coat the left and right wall of your garage in diesel - or even worse, in your eyes/mouth/nose. I've done this outside with dirty water after sucking it in the intake while 4x4ing. The fluid absolutely rockets out of the spark plug holes. Some will go out through the exhaust manifold too. Watch for fires afterwards. Also, I'd drain the mess first before cranking, otherwise you'll be burping diesel fuel out of the oil fill hole as each piston goes into its intake stroke.

I've never tried this, but it seems awfully messy. I'm doing an ARX treatment for lifter tick on my Chev. No luck so far. These trucks are known for collapsed lifters.

Finally, I'd run it a while. The lifter could be collapsed due to so much time in compression depending on the location on the cam over 5 years, or it could be frozen with a bit of corrosion. If it's corrosion, there's a decent chance it could break loose and start working again.
 
use two quarts of mmo (marvel mystery oil) and three quarts of cheap 10w30 with a new oil filter and let run at idle for about 45 minutes every 5 minutes or so raise the idle slightly (very slightly) for about 10 seconds then let idle again after that change the oil and filter and drive it for about 1 hour if the lifter noise continues and is there all the time cold and hot adjust the rocker arms.
 
Zoinks, I think you guys over estimate the cleaning ability of MMO and Seafoam. Agree on the diesel (or kero) shortcomings in this situation, it'd be more suited to bottom end crud.

I really think that the reason the instructions on MMO recommend the quart substitution method is b/c that's about the only way you'd hope to remove a decent quantity of crud. Of course, the question then, is does the stoddard solvent evaporate out over the period of the oil change and if so, what is left?
 
I think instead of cranking an engine full of diesel fuel, I think I would just pull the distributor and use a drill to run the oil pump.

I wouldn't do that now.
 
Id vote for MMO. Fill the crank with 2 quarts mmo and the rest with cheap oil. I would run the motor, dare I say drive it, for 1-2hours(while running a fuel system cleaner like Techron, redline, or heck, even MMO)

Drain oil, change filter, fill with cheap dino and 1 quart of MMO, run for 1500 miles.
Drain oil, change filter, fill with a quality synthetic, run 3000 mile OCI and motor on!!
 
My vote is to run ARX. With a car that has sat idle for so long, seals would be a concern of mine, if subjected to flash flush techniques.
 
Originally Posted By: ysirogerg
Hello everybody,
I have a problem. Engine sat for about 5 years. Changed oil and filter, cleaned gas tank,new fuel.Engine starts and runs fine.After about an hour lifters started clacking. Oil pressure at idle 35-45 psi.Chevy 400. Local guy says "collapsed lifters"
Flush engine and service with new oil. Good to go. Is this valid?
Or do I change lifters?
Ysirogerg


I would use ARX and some Pennzoil Platinum and do the 2500 Mile clean phase and then the rinse phase with some more Pennzoil Platinum. I would use a 5w20 too, because it's a bit thinner and will get into the tight spaces better IMO to aid cleaning everything really well.

I think this would definitely fix your problem if you run it according to the direction and let the engine get hot with some very nice long runs...

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