Electrical help!

[dja4260]

This is not one of my strengths....

Existing exterior light on a single a single interior switch. Electrician came to install a radon fan and the sub panel shown below to power it. Electrician ran romex from the exterior light to the panel (see picture)

I removed the light, moved the sub panel to it's place, and run romex to exterior lighting as seen exiting the sub panel on the right instead of the single light. Radon fan is to stay on at all times as before, and the lights work off the switch.

Outcome: The lights and radon fan now all stay on at all times, single switch does nothing.

Please help me problem solve and correct the wiring so the switch works for the lights only.

-1st/2nd picture is before & electrician's work.
-3rd picture is what I did and the switch isn't working, power is constant for radon fan & lights. Romex exiting the subpanel on the right is to the new lights. Romex exiting below the panel is to the radon fan.

 

[samven]

A couple questions, where is the incoming power. Are you tapping the light for power. Where did the wires come from that appeared in the center knockout (looks like they came out of the wall). What set of wires are going to the switch.
The way the far left tap is ganged it looks like incoming power, the light and the fan are all tied together in which case anytime there is power everything is on, if the incoming is going to the switch then your fan will go on and off with the light.
I am confused because I see 4 hots and only 3 neutrals

















w

 

[Leo99]

A couple questions, where is the incoming power. Are you tapping the light for power. Where did the wires come from that appeared in the center knockout (looks like they came out of the wall). What set of wires are going to the switch.
The way the far left tap is ganged it looks like incoming power, the light and the fan are all tied together in which case anytime there is power everything is on, if the incoming is going to the switch then your fan will go on and off with the light.
I am confused because I see 4 hots and only 3 neutrals

















w

To add to this, there was switched power going to the light originally. The electrician pulled always-on power from the light fixture by going in front of the switch and creating a switched hot to the light and an always hot leg to the fan. Looks like the OP pulled always on power into the box. OP, you need to figure which of the hot leads is on the switch. Then create two legs so the fan is always on and the lights are on the switched leg. If you plug everything into that bar, the switch can't work. It's always hot.

 

[eljefino]

That "subpanel" looks like a cutout box for an AC unit or anything else that's required to be able to shut off from outside for servicing or other reasons. I'm not great with code, don't know if Radon units need these things. If they do, there's a decent chance they're the only things that should be powered by the box.

Also don't believe Romex should be inside conduit like that; should be individual strands of THHN wire.

Also wonder what's keeping rain water from dripping down the backside of the back and then into that hole in your wall.

 

[dja4260]

I figured it out!

 

[dja4260]

To add to this, there was switched power going to the light originally. The electrician pulled always-on power from the light fixture by going in front of the switch and creating a switched hot to the light and an always hot leg to the fan. Looks like the OP pulled always on power into the box. OP, you need to figure which of the hot leads is on the switch. Then create two legs so the fan is always on and the lights are on the switched leg. If you plug everything into that bar, the switch can't work. It's always hot.

You’re 100% correct!

 

[Starving Electrician]

That is an absolute abortion. That exposed UF cable is not code compliant. I'd have to check code on that service disconnect but I'm not sure it's needed. Please dont go to that guy ever again for anything. This work is distressing.

 

[Donald]

That is an absolute abortion. That exposed UF cable is not code compliant. I'd have to check code on that service disconnect but I'm not sure it's needed. Please dont go to that guy ever again for anything. This work is distressing.

What a mess (electrically). And ugly too.

 

[2005jettatdi]

Do not attempt wiring unless you have read and understood Wiring Simplified. (or you are an electrician)

Double tapping is against code and could be dangerous. Sloppy is dangerous.

 

[Starving Electrician]

Do not attempt wiring unless you have read and understood Wiring Simplified. (or you are an electrician)

Double tapping is against code and could be dangerous. Sloppy is dangerous.

Common misconception double tapping isn't against code out right. It is allowed if the connector is listed for it. Off hand I think all Square D breakers are listed for landing two wires. Although those connectors to not look like they are the type that is listed for such use. I left it alone because I couldn't say for sure.

Edit I will add since double tapping is only allowed with certain terminations it's a good practice to avoid it. Unless you know the termination is listed for it and you have a reason. Other than well it's allowed as that's not a justification. It was probably a mistake you are trying to correct.

 

[JHZR2]

That "subpanel" looks like a cutout box for an AC unit or anything else that's required to be able to shut off from outside for servicing or other reasons. I'm not great with code, don't know if Radon units need these things. If they do, there's a decent chance they're the only things that should be powered by the box.

Also don't believe Romex should be inside conduit like that; should be individual strands of THHN wire.

Also wonder what's keeping rain water from dripping down the backside of the back and then into that hole in your wall.

I was thinking the same about romex in conduit.

Looks like the installer used the wrong part of the switch loop to connect the light. The radon unit should be always on.