Originally Posted By: Jimmy9190
If the speakers got wet, they would still play after they dried out. They might not sound as good but they should still work. Speakers are not likely the problem here. Use an ohm meter to check the speakers and be sure the voice coils are still OK, which they should be after drying out. See if you have these colors at the speaker output plug at the amplifier:
Front Speakers:
Left Front (+) Purple
Left Front (-) Blue/Orange
Right Front (+) Blue/White
Right Front (-) White
Rear Speakers:
Left Rear (+) White/Blue
Left Rear (-) Red/Blue
Right Rear (+) White/Green
Right Rear (-) Blue
You can check the voice coils with an ohm meter and you can connect a 9 volt battery across the speaker wires, and if the speaker works, the speaker cone will move and the speaker will make a popping sound. You can also check the wiring polarity that way, when you have the positive speaker wire on the positive post of the battery and the negative speaker wire on the negative post, the speaker cone will move out, away from the basket (frame) of the speaker. If you have the polarity reversed, the cone will move in, towards the magnet on the speaker. To be sure the speakers still work, you can also connect a known good audio source like a boom box to each speaker, one at a time.
You probably still have a power problem somewhere, especially if the original amp was immersed in water. When you say you replaced the radio, did you put in another Ford radio? And if so are you sure it works? And if it does work, is it the same model that came with the premium sound system in your car? Some Ford radios will operate the amplified system and some will not. If you used an aftermarket radio, did you connect the amplifier remote on lead to the remote on lead for the factory amplifier? If you used an aftermarket radio and an aftermarket wire harness to connect it just be sure to connect their respective blue/white leads together to trigger the Ford amplifier.
Check at the amplifier location. Pull up the carpet in front of the amp location and there may be a bolt or screw and a ground wire for the amplifier going into the floor or more likely the metal support brace that is welded to the floor, under the seat. The ground wire itself should be black. If there was water standing in the car, the ground connection may be corroded. If you find that, just remove the bolt and clean it all up. Dry the carpet and the metal floor pan the best you can before reassembly. The amp may not be grounded to the chassis of the car, if there is no ground terminal there it is grounded with a wire that is part of the wire harness for the amplifier.
If the ground is OK or you don't have the bolt, there should be a plug there at the amp location for power, ground and remote on to the amp. Check to see you have voltage on the white/orange remote on wire at the amp, when the radio/cd is on. It may be a low voltage turn on, about .3 amps. That should be OK, especially with a new radio installed, as long as the radio works. Then check the main power wire at the amp location, it may be blue/red. No matter its color it should be a larger gauge than the remote on wire. There may be one power wire, or there may be 2 power wires each the same color, going to the same pin on the plug for the amp. Check for voltage on the power wire, it should have constant 12 volts whether the ignition is on or not. If there is no voltage present, you probably still have a blown fuse somewhere for the amplifier. I would guess that is what is wrong since the old amp was immersed in standing water. I would guess the water would also account for the static you heard through the speakers. I think the water was conductive enough to cause the amp to try to turn on, even if only for a few seconds.
If there is no main voltage present for the amplifier, check the fuse panel in the car and also the one under the hood. Look for a fuse labeled "audio" or "premium sound" or if there are no fuses like that there you will need to remove each fuse one at a time and you may find the blown fuse that way. Sometimes different components will share the same circuit, like the clock and the dome light are both on the same constant 12 volt circuit.
The radio that I tried was a known working unit and it was a Ford radio just like mine.
There are only 2 fuses that control the audio, both under the dash and I replaced both.
There are ne seperate grounds on the amp, but I do not have a meter and didn't check for power at the amp. I'll take the seat back out and borrow a meter to check for power. Have not checked the speakers either as I assumed if they were bad, I'd still get some sort of noise/feedback from them.
