Driveline fluids for my 2008 Ram?

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Which fluids should I use in my '08 Dodge Ram to maximize mpg & change intervals? Here is what the factory calls for:

6-spd manual transmission - ATF+4
part time transfer case - ATF+4
front differential - 75w90
rear differential - 75w140
 
Syn gear oil Amsoil Mobil 1 or even better Chevron Delo ESI a GpII oil that performs like a syn oil but is half the cost.Trans oil ???
 
RedLine C+ ATF wich is a fully synthetic version that grossly exceeds ATF+4. In case anyone ask's I have a used oil analysis on this site of it from my 2001 Dodge Dakota it great looking!

You can also use it in the T/Case.

For the front and rear diff it will not matter that much. If you are buying the redline I have good luck with [censored].com or mylittleoilshop.com they used to be sponsors for a short time. I like fact that Redline makes a specific fluid just for Chrysler products call for any of the ATF+,++,+++,++++ type fluids as compared to an all in one universal fluid like Amsoil. I can also recomend it because I have used it. On that same note ATF+4 is now easy to find at Walmart and AutoParts stores so if you wanted to stay with ATF+4 no harm their it just is not a fully synthetic product and is not as robust as Redlines product. Again look at my used oil analysis at all the additives they put in their that are not in other fluids!

Now for the front and rear diff.'s I do not think it is going to matter as much. If you can get Amsoil Sever Gear cheaper localy go for it!Even M1 would do well.
 
Hmmm, didn't notice that before. I see that Amsoil, Schaeffers, RP, etc... all recommended a universal synthetic ATF while Redline actually has a Chrysler-specific ATF. Still not sure why Chrysler uses ATF with a Getrag manual transmission, though.

Thanks!
 
Use the ATF-4, I don't go in for the universal stuff. Redline or what ever brand you want to buy.

Dodge calls for full synthetic lubes in the differentials. Use what they call for, in whatever brand you want.

However you will not increase your MPG much if any.
 
Dodge uses a synthetic 75w140 in the rear diff, and conventional 75w90 up front from the factory. Not sure what the ATF+4 is...some say synthetic, some say synthetic blend.

Either way, I went ahead and ordered some Redline C+ ATF for the transmission & t-case, and some Redline 75w90/140 for the diffs. I've had great luck with their products in the past on my BMW, and the Chrysler-specific ATF convinced me to spend the extra few bucks, even though my truck hardly seems worthy of the oil.
 
I have an 07.5 Dodge with a 6.7 liter cummins. I run 75w-90(per manuel) Schaeffer's in the front and rear diffs. Schaeffer's syn. atf+4 in the x-fer case. I will change the transmission to schaeffer's pretty soon. Schaeffers 5w-40 supreme 9000 in the engine.
 
Opposite Locker I noticed that my transmission 45RFE in the Dakota I had would shift much better when cold then it did with the Mopar ATF+4. Now my transmission had two filter inside one on the cooler return side and one for the pickup side. I used OEM Dodge parts because at the time that is all I could find. No one had aftermarket filter for it. I changed my ATF and all my lubes at 10,000 miles for new powertrains or rebuilt ones! When I did nine I used a $3 plastic kiddy pool and my Rhino Ramps! THe only problem I ran into was that I got about 3 extra quarts out then the book said it takes. I am guesing it was the Rhino ramps that made the difference. Lucky for me I had ordered a few extra just incase. The filter on the cooler return side is a screw in cartridge filter so it looks like a small oil filter but it has a threaded pipe built onto it and thread into the case. It is best to change both of these while you are in their. Bulkparts carries these filters and they are cheap through them! If you want a sealant that is a match for OEM and will not cause foaming of the ATF a product called either the right stuff I think it is what you want. It is a bit priceing comes in a compressed self feeding can but it dry's in 5 minutes and is almost industructable!

Oh and that spin in filter if I rember right need to be torqued to 11 inch pounds. That is what I remember converting the newtons listed in the service manual to. None of my calibrated torque wrench's had Newtons on them.
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
Opposite Locker I noticed that my transmission 45RFE in the Dakota I had would shift much better when cold then it did with the Mopar ATF+4. Now my transmission had two filter inside one on the cooler return side and one for the pickup side. I used OEM Dodge parts because at the time that is all I could find. No one had aftermarket filter for it. I changed my ATF and all my lubes at 10,000 miles for new powertrains or rebuilt ones! When I did nine I used a $3 plastic kiddy pool and my Rhino Ramps! THe only problem I ran into was that I got about 3 extra quarts out then the book said it takes. I am guesing it was the Rhino ramps that made the difference. Lucky for me I had ordered a few extra just incase. The filter on the cooler return side is a screw in cartridge filter so it looks like a small oil filter but it has a threaded pipe built onto it and thread into the case. It is best to change both of these while you are in their. Bulkparts carries these filters and they are cheap through them! If you want a sealant that is a match for OEM and will not cause foaming of the ATF a product called either the right stuff I think it is what you want. It is a bit priceing comes in a compressed self feeding can but it dry's in 5 minutes and is almost industructable!

Oh and that spin in filter if I rember right need to be torqued to 11 inch pounds. That is what I remember converting the newtons listed in the service manual to. None of my calibrated torque wrench's had Newtons on them.


Hey JB

If you were having cold shift problems it might have been that little plastic bushing/seal installed in between the pan filter and the pump suction. If that thing isn't installed correctly it will allow the transmission to feel like it is slipping and not shift right, when first started in the morning. Once the transmission warms up it shifts like it is suppose to. Also, if it is leaking, allow the truck to idle about 15 to 30 seconds in gear (D or R), I guess it fills up whatever needs to be filled up and it then shifts fine.

Ask me how I know this!

Yep it happened to me.

Black RTV always worked for me. The OEM filters do not come with a pan gasket. The last filters I purchased were Hastings brand, the filter kit came with a cork gasket. Used a small amount of RTV, stuck the gasket to the pan, and WALLAH-- no leaks drips runs or errors. Heck I even used the old fashioned Form-A-Gasket #2 and it worked very well.
 
Manual Transmission gear oil can still be replaced as a preventative measure.

That in mind, I see most manual transmissions go for AGES with the factory fill.
 
No I was not haveing shift problems I am just very observent and know any eqipment I operate and maintain inside and out. The cold shift properties of the 45RFE are controlled by the PCM and specificly holds it in gear longer and prevent some shifts to warm the engine up faster. Put no what I ment was that the shift feel felt better witht he C+ATF as compared to the OEM ATF+4. The only transmissions that have ever given me grief have always been GM transmissions. I had great luck with Dodge,Toyota and Ford automatics and manuals!

I will say this though. My 2001 Dakota was in tot he dealership once a month it seemed like the first two years either for a recall,TSB or Warranty Work. I never had any problems witht he engine or transmission though it was always something bolted to the engine or the frame!

My service writer who used to invite me to Poker games at his house with the guys always used to ask me what I was useing in the Transmission. I always told him nothing just ATF+4...He would always look at me and laugh since he knew I was not running ATF+4 since he could see I had purchased filters their but no fluid! Back then it was OEM only for ATF+4. He asked because My Dakota was the only vechile with a 45RFE transmission that did not weep ATF from the rear seal. He even went so far as to show me brand new Jeeps as well as older vechiles and they all had a weep at the rear seal either on the transmission or from the transfer case. SInce I was under warranty back then I would never admit I was useing anything but ATF+4 but it was the C+ATF from Redline that I had in their. Although I think my transfer case had a mix of Amsoil Universal and C+ because I ran out of the C+.
 
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