drain plug washer

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Messages
1,426
Location
Golden Meadow, LA
i always change washers(and usually use OEM washers when i can)on drain plugs that have them, when doing an oil change. I have to do an oil change on a 2007 4 cyl Camry tomorrow, it specs 18 ft lbs on the plug. I dont have any oem washers, so i stopped at O Reillys and bought some M12 flat copper washers. Nissan and Toyota both use M12-1.25 drain plugs. I do have some oem nissan crush washers, so would it be better to use the nissan washers or the flat washers from o reillys, and should the nissan washers work good on the toyota plug, will they work as intended when torqued to 18 ft lbs instead of the usual nissan spec of 22-29? sorry for being paranoid, I just dont want the car to have an oil leak.
 
Being paranoid. Old washers get reused every day without any leaks or problems. Fewer people actually torque a drain plug. I never have

Imo too many on this board are paranoid about reusing washers
 
I reuse and flip the washer around 180 degrees each OCI. Torque is 29ft lbs. Going on 126,000 on the original drain plug washer on my accord. Sleep well.
 
Last edited:
The only vehicle I have had that I changed the washer was my car when it was new. I only did it for 3 changes. I have never used a torque wrench either. I always clean off my plug after install to make sure it doesn't leak but I have never had one. yet I guess
smile.gif
 
The Nissan washers work fine on Toyota drain plugs. Yours is an exception, as most Toyota drain plugs are tightened somewhere between 25-30 ft lbs. Just tighten the plug until the washer bottoms out.
 
my personal vehicles, i haven't used a washer at all. No leaks at all.

I do know that most VW will need a washer or they have slight drips. I serviced a few friends and found that to be the case.
 
Go with the flat washer..that way its also harder to overtighten the drain plug. I over tightened a crush washer and stripped the threads..never an issue with flat washers and tightening til its firm and snug. I dont torque to any specific spec. You should be fine.
 
The Saabs in the family have copper drain plug washers and I must say they are not "satisfying" as they are hard.

The transmission plugs on all our vehicles and oil plugs for the Volvo, Hondas and Toyotas are all aluminum.
They're better because they give a feel which I prefer.
You can feel the aluminum yield or bite a bit.

I prefer a little bite. Kira
 
Toyota used to use a plastic washer. If you have a different material that will snugly fit the drain plug like aluminum, then give it a try. If you tighten all aluminum to 21 ft lbs, you can usually flip it over and use it again on the second oil change.

I've switched to a fumoto drain valve.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
I reuse and flip the washer around 180 degrees each OCI. Torque is 29ft lbs. Going on 126,000 on the original drain plug washer on my accord. Sleep well.


I'm going on 250,000 on my Accord. I used to change them until it reached around 30,000 miles, then I just kind of forgot about it...it now has 287,000 miles. The drain plug is the least of the worries for this car at this point.
 
The only (potential) issue I see is the torque - I have needed to get on a couple copper washers pretty hard to get them to seal.
You can mess around on eBay and Amazon and look for aftermarket plugs with a variety of gaskets.
Some are magnetic of course.
 
Originally Posted By: 4WD
The only (potential) issue I see is the torque - I have needed to get on a couple copper washers pretty hard to get them to seal.
You can mess around on eBay and Amazon and look for aftermarket plugs with a variety of gaskets.
Some are magnetic of course.
I was wondering about corrosion.
 
Dissimilar metals ? I have seen the aftermarket plugs made from lots of stuff - even titanium
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Is there an issue with copper washer, steel plug and aluminum pan?


Yes, copper and aluminum hate each other. If you drive treated winter roads, you'll get more corrosion around a copper washer ...

Just re-use old washer and add some Ultra-black RTV around the threads on the plug when you re-insert. Have been doing that on untold numbers of pan plugs for about 40 years now. Never had one back out or leak
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: doublebase
I'm going on 250,000 on my Accord. I used to change them until it reached around 30,000 miles, then I just kind of forgot about it...it now has 287,000 miles. The drain plug is the least of the worries for this car at this point.

Not nearly that many miles on my Accord or BMW but I don't change mine either. One day I was changing my oil and didn't have a fresh washer so I reused the old one. It worked fine. Now I take the washer off the plug (or occasionally have to pop it off the pan) and wipe it off carefully and just put it back. Might be the same side, might be flipped over, might be rotated, might not be rotated.

On a '63 Chevy II I had a soft clear plastic washer for a few years. It eventually got distorted so I threw it out. Replaced the plug (without any washer) for years and had no problems. But that was a steel pan of course.
 
I use an oem flat AL washer on my Mazda. I did use a torque wrench many times to get the feel under the engine and now I use a partly used oem washer and only snug up the bolt. No reason to wrench in like a head bolt. Ed
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top