Does Oil Brand Really Matter?

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Does oil brand really matter?

What do you say to a guy with a 1995 Buick LeSabre 3800 that has over 300,000 ml with 5,000 ml changes on Valvoline 10W30 Dino and Cheapo Filter from the local Quick Change.

You need better oil and filter or shorter intervals?

I'm sure there are better oil, filters, and the change interval might be borderline to long with that oil but why mess with success.

The car uses 1 QT of oil every 3000 ml.

Personally its enough to make me consider the Wally World $17.95 oil change for our own 1995 LeSabre!
 
Personally I think your formula works great and just stick with it. Walmart's oil change in our area is quality oil Pennzoil and a Fram (you can ask for a SuperTech for $0.20 more). I mostly used 4k-5k mostly Valvoline and have had no issues on a 210,000 miles Civic.
 
quote:

What do you say to a guy with a 1995 Buick LeSabre 3800 that has over 300,000 ml with 5,000 ml changes on Valvoline 10W30 Dino and Cheapo Filter from the local Quick Change.

I'd say, "if you don't use oil analysis, maybe you should try an engine clean with Auto-RX and use FP and LC."
 
quote:

Originally posted by Gene K:
Does oil brand really matter?

What do you say to a guy with a 1995 Buick LeSabre 3800 that has over 300,000 ml with 5,000 ml changes on Valvoline 10W30 Dino and Cheapo Filter from the local Quick Change.

You need better oil and filter or shorter intervals?

I'm sure there are better oil, filters, and the change interval might be borderline to long with that oil but why mess with success.

The car uses 1 QT of oil every 3000 ml.

Personally its enough to make me consider the Wally World $17.95 oil change for our own 1995 LeSabre!


Considering your car is only a 1995 with 300k shows that the engine was most likely driven mostly at high speeds and not stressed as much. As for most of us, we usually do about 70% urban driving and only 30% highway which stresses the whole car much more...
 
The 3800 V-6 is very easy on oil, period. You can use almost anything that meets spec.

This is not true of many other engine designs, however.

I don't have a problem with Wally's oil, just Wally's boys, when they miss minor details like putting the drain plug back in.
lol.gif


Double check behind them.
 
I think today's better GII and GII+ dinos are fine for most applications and will help an engine last longer than most of us care to keep a vehicle. The exception would be arctic climates and severe service like lots of trailer towing.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Gene K:


What do you say to a guy with a 1995 Buick LeSabre 3800 that has over 300,000 ml with 5,000 ml changes on Valvoline 10W30 Dino............?


I'd say, Repent, man, Repent!!!!!!! Change to Castrol GTX dino before it is too late!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Mabey try a HM engine oil like Castrol HM or the new Mobil 1 HM.
Consider a Motorcraft filter if they make one for your application , which are cheap(~$3) and good quality
 
Brand of oil might not matter but when you spend $$$$ on a vehicle it's like insurance..want to see the picture on brand's of oil...Who's to say it did go 300,000 on Valvoline or might be in better condition with using Chevron oil...Your choice use whatever oil you want....average Joe wants a little insurance what he puts into his $$$$motor...
 
I would say that brand does not matter, as long as you choose from among one of the top tier dinos. IMHO, you could assemble a nice list dinos like:
Pennzoil
Chevron Supreme
Havoline
Castrol GTX
Valvoline
Conoco HydroClear/Motorcraft

and then shop based on price or stock up when there is a sale. I feel that most daily drivers would function the same in the long run regardless of the oil or oils chosen off of a list like mine.
 
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