Does Castrol GTX 5w-30 have any Moly?

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I'm confused. Some of the oil analysis show Castrol oils have some moly, others do not. Does anybody know for sure if the Castrol 5w30 sold in the States has Moly or not?

If I wanted to add some Moly to my GTX dino, which additive would be best?
 
Moly is just one way of meeting spec. Don't get infactuated by it. The best wear numbers come from oils that used advanced additive packages that use state of the art components. Molybdenum is not one of them. It's old school.
 
So what's "new school"? I see sodium popping up in some of the GTX analyses.

I find it interesting that most of the factory fills contain lots of Moly... and most the the boutique oils contain healthy doses of it too. That's why I'm wondering about it.
 
One of the top 5w20 and 5w30 conventional moly oils for the past several years hasn't done well fighting dilution in crankcases. So before switching to these highest moly oils, get a used oil analysis done first - for detection-reasons.

I have the GM 4.3 engine that's notorious for coolant infiltration. I avoid the Havolines, Chevrons.... high moly oils. So be careful what you wish for.
 
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So what's "new school"?




A well formulated oil, an oil that doesn't depend on any one ingredient to do all that is fully expected of a motor oil. Some use a well rounded additive package that may or may not use Mo. Some use Mo and B. Some interesting formulations have a higher B than Mo with excellent results.
 
I'm still confused about GTX though. Some analyses show it has moly, others do not. Does Castrol add it sometimes and other times does not? If that's true, it troubles me that these formulations change from time to time when you stock up!
 
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I'm still confused about GTX though. Some analyses show it has moly, others do not. Does Castrol add it sometimes and other times does not? If that's true, it troubles me that these formulations change from time to time when you stock up!




It's probably a function of product age and changed formulas.
 
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Moly is just one way of meeting spec. Don't get infactuated by it. The best wear numbers come from oils that used advanced additive packages that use state of the art components. Molybdenum is not one of them. It's old school.




Per Moly Basics from the home page. Benefits described there are more important than "best wear numbers". For an old, high mileage car factors that affect drivability have priority over oil report data.
 
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I'm confused. Some of the oil analysis show Castrol oils have some moly, others do not. Does anybody know for sure if the Castrol 5w30 sold in the States has Moly or not?

If I wanted to add some Moly to my GTX dino, which additive would be best?




Here is a very good UOA with excellent TBN @ 5.8k miles --> GTX 5w30 toyota corolla 5.8k miles

Moly shown as 15 and oil was bought around Nov 2006 (SM)

Here is a run of 3.3k miles of GTX--> GTX 5w30 3.3k miles in toyota corolla.

That oil was SM also with a Moly of 9. Oil was bought April 05.

So with my GTX used oil analysis its never been a Moly "rich" oil.
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BUT I agree with others. Don't buy an oil because its Moly this or Group that. Buy an oil for its PERFORMANCE .
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And I would not go around and add this or that to oils. Let the oil companies do that. (a oil should be able to do its job if blended correctly. )

Take care, bill
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I'm confused. Some of the oil analysis show Castrol oils have some moly, others do not. Does anybody know for sure if the Castrol 5w30 sold in the States has Moly or not?

If I wanted to add some Moly to my GTX dino, which additive would be best?




I used to obsess about moly too when I found out Hondas love it and have some significant amount in its FF. But rather then focus on a certain ingredient(despite the moly), I relied on what the car maker thought was a good formula for my car's Factory Fill and luckily they sold DriveClean OTC in not one but two members in Drive Clean series(both 5k and 75k (see below))

What more important is that my car is thriving on the final formula by way of whats in the base oil (+ additives for anti-wear, Friction modifiers(whatever are absolutely needed that the base oil can't do to its equivalent)). Don't forget it has to provide something tangible for you, in the short-terms first (i.e power, FE et al) and then long-term, most oils are gonna give you what your engine will allow, in my case it should be 250,000 to 300,000 miles given continuous(improvement)proper maintenance.
 
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