Dodge Ram overheated then started knocking........

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Originally Posted By: Shannow


JB, the current ford 6 cylinders sold in Oz have a coolant free limp home mode. Alternately allows fuel to cylinders, and apparently 50km or so is OK...must rely on the air flow through the non fueled cylinders to carry away heat.
The Cadillac Northstar has that too.

Doesn't work.............Still burns em up.
 
Actually the truck only has around 190 kilometers. I'd like to repair or replace this engine and then get at least another 100k out of it. Then buy a Tundra........ oops did I say that out loud?

Any bets on how long an engine will last with rod knock? Is it usually cheaper to replace an engine with a used one or rebuild the old one?

I'm changing out the oil to Esso XD3 hoping the noise is caused by thinned oil. Part of me is still clinging on to that hope and the other part of me says I'm dreaming.
 
Originally Posted By: firemachine69
I'd buy a GMC Sierra long before a Tundra. I firmly believe a camshaft belongs INSIDE an engine.

The choice is yours, of course...


I didn't know the Tundra had it's camshafts outside the engine. Where are they, in the bed?

What will you do when engines don't have camshafts, but computer controlled hydraulic or electrical valve actuation?
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL


That is not necessarily correct. There are a number of different types of cooling systems in use. Almost all of them are pressurized, but WHERE that pressure is restricted is a function of the type of system.

Three examples:

1. Old-school 8psi-style systems found on 60's and 70's cars. Many of these did NOT have overflow tanks. There was always some sort of air in the cooling system. Yet they functioned fine. They typically had larger rads, and copious quantities of under-hood space that allowed for much better heat dissipation than the modern cramped engine compartments which rely VERY heavily on an efficient cooling system.

2. Newer systems with a non-pressurized overflow. The system found on all older Ford automobiles for example. My Town Car, Mustang, Explorer (1997)...etc all had this system. The pressure cap (15psi for the Lincoln for example) is on the radiator. The overflow tank simply has a clip on cap. There is a level of coolant in this tank and two lines indicating full cold and full hot. As the coolant expands, it eventually overcomes the 15psi limit of the cap on the radiator, causing the expanded coolant to exit the radiator into the overflow container and increasing the level to the "full hot" mark. When the car is shut off, and the coolant cools (and contracts), the negative pressure inside the radiator draws back in the coolant from the overflow and brings it back down to the "full cold" mark.

3. Pressurized overflow. My dad's 03 Town car has this, my mom's 2000 Expedition has this system. There is no rad cap. The cap is instead a screw-on cap on the actual overflow container. This container is opaque plastic and has the same "full cold" and "full hot" marks as the older system, except the pressure in the system is controlled by the cap on the actual overflow.


And a couple of points:

- Ethylene Glycol has a higher boiling point than water (198C). A 50/50 mix of traditional green antifreeze (Ethylene Glycol) and water NOT pressurized has a boiling point of 107.2C (225F).

- Pressurized coolant has a higher boiling point than non-pressurized coolant. So while a 50/50 mix of EG and water will boil at 225F, under 15psi, water boils at 250F, and with a 50/50 of EG, boils at 265F.


OVERK1LL,

That's an excellent well written post with lots of good information. Nice work.
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Yeah, that doesn't really sound like rod knock from those videos.

Take a stick (or if you have a stethoscope even better!) and try and locate where the sound is coming from.
 
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Originally Posted By: edhackett
Hard to tell, but that sounds like it could be a blown head gasket. A warped head is the most common outcome of overheating.

Ed


I have to agree. Sounds like bad head gasket, cracked head etc. Don't drive it and get it fixed or the damage will increase exponentially. $110 for the dearation tank sounds like a steal now. (sorry, I couldn't help myself)
 
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