do you think they'll warranty?

[meep]

My 08 jeep is 2 years old. Every 2 years I swap the brake fluid.

Lt rear bleeder valve was obnoxiously tight!! Took a 13" wrench to break it free.

Rt rear bleeder valve just melted off (sheared) as soon as I started to turn it.

Clearly factory overtightened and started to sheer the bleeder valve already. But since I did it myself.... I can see the dealer arguing this all day long. So... take it back while it's under warranty, and maybe get nowhere? Or just never bleed that corner until it seizes in a few years?

M

 

[Johnny]

I would get it fixed no matter what, but I doubt the warranty will cover it since the dealer did not do it. But it never hurts to check.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Doubt they over tightened it, they prob put too much locktite on it at the factory.

Personally I'd just get it off and get a new one. I could see them getting dumb with it.

You KNOW the answer to the last sentence in your post so I'll not answer it.

Bill

 

[HyundaiGuy]

Originally Posted By: Johnny
I would get it fixed no matter what, but I doubt the warranty will cover it since the dealer did not do it. But it never hurts to check.


+1

 

[demarpaint]

IMO you broke it you bought it. I'd have it fixed no matter what. As others mentioned you can check with the dealer, but to get your hopes up.

 

[The_Jeff]

It was a casting flaw, so yeah should be covered under warranty.

But how much gas does it take to get your Jeep to the dealer for a $15 part, and how are they going to screw it up.

I think this would be a good test of your dealer's integrity. And you'll have an amusing story for us when you go, no matter what the answer is.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Does not sound to me to be a casting flaw. Brake bleeder screws are soft already and EASY to mess up.

I've never had to replace one from a stealership (I'd go to NAPA) but hopefully its a $2 part.

 

[Drew99GT]

I wouldn't even think of taking it to a stealer for that. While it's there, they'll call back with the grocery list - trans flush, coolant flush, muffler bearings, grease the radio etc.

 

[Johnny]

What! You mean you're not suppose to grease the radio and service the muffler bearing?

 

[SuperDave456]

A few weeks ago I serviced the breaks on my truck. The break fluid was black and nasty, probably the original stuff from 1998.

I got the rear 2 bleeders loose and flushed out that part of the system with new fluid, then got to the passenger side front. The bleeder screw was stripped out, it was a rectangle.
The following day I went into Auto Zone, picked up a pair of bleeder screws for the front end for 1.99. I went back home, turned the wheel away from that side to give me more clearance, and grabbed the vice grips.

Worked like a charm. It came right out, also put a dab of anti seize on the new bleeder screws.

I would do this yourself if possible. The parts should be cheap, even if you go get those from the Stealership.

 

[robshelton]

Meep, I don't know your situation but if you are in a pinch you can bleed that cylinder thru the line fitting. It's slow but it works.

 

[willix]

Bleeders can take in moisture,road chemicals through the opening and find a way into the seat of the valve.

This is why some systems have a rubber or plastic cap on the nipple.

I entirly agree that the valve was not likely overtightened and thread sealer/locker contributed to this issue.

A bit of heat would of softened the the thread sealer.

 

[meep]

Well, the catch is... the rest of the bleeder screw is still in there, nice and tight. While the screw itself is cheeeeaaap, I'm not sure I can extract it w/o destroying the caliper. It'll easily bend with a reverse-thread extractor. Considering it offered little resistance when I started it, I think it was partially sheered/distorted from assembly.

Many cars never get any fluid changes. by 75k miles the rebuilt calipers shouldn't cost that much... if I break this one trying to extract the remaining bits, or if the dealer charges me $200 for a new caliper, then it's pointless. It's on TIGHT, it ain't leaking...

Now-- if the brakes wear, and I take it to them for a brake job, and they say... it's missing a part, and I say "umm... I know nothing"... then they might look at it and R&R. BUT, the way i drive, and unlike previous jeeps, these brakes tend to last a long time.

I my call them, but I think I'll be SOL b/c the only thing I've ever had it there for is warranty work. They haven't seen a dime from me since purchase...

 

[mechtech2]

Bleeders stick. They don't have to be overtightened.
The metal actually bonds electrically with the metal in the slave cylinder, over time. Or just plain rust.
Sometimes a sealer is used, this can hurt, not help.

 

[The Critic]

They'll probably say you broke, so it isn't worth your time.

Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
I wouldn't even think of taking it to a stealer for that. While it's there, they'll call back with the grocery list - trans flush, coolant flush, muffler bearings, grease the radio etc.

Never had that happen to me. Last time I went to a dealer with the Saturn, they recommended replacing a failed lower dogbone mount and flushing the nasty P/S fluid-- both of which were legitimate items.

 

[aaxb970]

Fix it yourself. Dealer might fix it but chances are slim.