do you let your engine "warm up" before driving?

[TheTanSedan]

I'm a believer in, once running, and the oil pressure is up then it's time to go. But I let it roll up into top gear without using the accelerator, and don't give it any fuel -- if possible -- until the thermostat opens.

Even then, remember that the oil is not yet warm, the trans fluid, wheel bearing/suspension/steering grease, etc is not yet warm. And the drive axle is not yet warm.

In warm weather, I figure 20 miles steady-state driving, in cold, 35-plus before ALL components are as warm as they're likely to get.

Of course, I drive a 1971 Chrysler, not a computer-controlled, sort-of-like-a-car, and the problem of cylinder wash is magnified on a carburetted motor versus EFI, but the principle holds.

In towing, this is only magnified for the first few miles.

Don't forget hot shutdown, either. Another problem that most ignore.

 

[Bror Jace]

Despite the fact that I live where it gets VERY cold, I warm up the car as little as possible ... then drive gently for the first 3+ miles.

It was abut 0F this morning and will be colder tomorrow.

The only time that I feel compelled for a warm-up of more than 30 seconds is when I need to clear my windshield and/or it's fogged up.

Generally, I feel that a long warm up is merely more wear 'n tear on the motor ... and wasted fuel.

--- Bror Jace

 

[Patman]

It was 0F here this morning too, and I only warmed my car up for maybe 30-40 seconds and then pulled off. Stupid me went and got a car wash on the way to work though, and it promptly froze even before the dryer could do it's thing. So I decided to pay the $12 for the underground parking (even though I already pay $140 a month on another outside lot) so that my car would thaw out and dry off. I hate winter. Did I ever mention that?

 

[Dewlanna]

I usually start the car then go back in the house to holler at the kids, back outside to deal with snow and ice, go back in the house to inform the kids that missing home work is not MY problem

, back out to the car......you get the picture. The car is good and warm before I ever leave the driveway.
Just how much fuel am I wasting doing this?
I'm getting atrocious gas mileage this winter, but that could have more to do with the type of driving I do. I put 50 or 60 miles a day on the car and never get farther than 7 miles from home. I never get to drive faster then 50 (and that's just for 2 miles before I hit the 30 mph zone). Then it's 'stop sign to traffic light' driving the rest of the day.

While we are on the subject of winter driving and this IS an oil board, just what weight oil should I be using in the winter (in a place with sub-zero nights, daytime highs usually below freezing)? My car is a '93 Mercury Sable with lots of miles (I'm going to roll over the odometer for the second time in a few more months). The thing either leaks or burns about a quart between oil changes. (yes I know I should get a new car, but I have 2 boys who need college educations too.

)
The car is not worth bothering with fancy oil, I just use plain old Pennzoil, but I'm not sure if I should switch weights in the cold months.

 

[Patman]

What weight are you using now? If you're gonna stick with plain old dino oil, you should go with 5w30, but look around for some of the oils with the lower pour points for the winter, such as Chevron or Havoline. I believe those two have the lowest pour points of the conventional 5w30s.

 

[metroplex]

I use 5W-30 Super-Tech Synthetic in my 2000 Ford 4.6L SOHC V8.

I give it 30 seconds so the high idle comes down, then I take off. I don't go WOT unless absolutely necessary prior to reaching 1-2 miles.

Necessary meaning: The light is green and the next time it will turn green is in about 5 minutes. I'm late for work, I have no time for this BS warm-up crap.... VROOOOOOOM.

Otherwise if I hit the red I just take it easy until I need to go fast.

For what its worth, when I used Pennzoil 5W-30 (the dino), the engine was very sluggish before 1-2 miles. I can't even race it if I wanted to at a stoplight

Even the cheapest synthetic seems to perform better than one of the better dino oils.

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

The winter gas is killing my mileage not the cold weather. Off 9-10%.

 

[Rick in PA]

No particular warm-up here (I've always been too cheap to waste the gas). Usually start it and go easy the first mile or so. If the motor starts a little "off", I'll let it settle into a smooth idle, then go. The only time I let it warm-up is if there is ice on the glass, then it warms-up while I scrape the ice off.

 

[Bror Jace]

"I usually start the car then go back in the house to holler at the kids, back outside to deal with snow and ice, go back in the house ... The car is good and warm before I ever leave the driveway. Just how much fuel am I wasting doing this?"

Dew, it's hard to say. Is the car running for more than 5 minutes before you begin to drive? It may only be a few percent. You would have to keep careful track of miles and gallons used over time with calculations made after each fill up to see for sure. As others have said, you get poorer mileage in the winter because of reformulated fuels (which vary widely depending on location) and the colder air makes for a denser air/fuel charge. You actually make a little more power in the winter but that takes a toll on fuel economy. My '95 Honda Civic got 45mpg in the middle of summer but only in the high 30s come winter. Of course, a car with a bad sensor or two, clogged injectors or other mechanical problems such as sticking brakes can also reduce mileage. Replaced your air filter within the last 15,000 miles?

Anyway, your mileage will drop, perhaps considerably, but trying to pinpoint why can be difficult. It is usually a process of elimination.

"I put 50 or 60 miles a day on the car and never get farther than 7 miles from home."

As long as you get the car up to temperature (15-20 minutes of running at a time) you should be OK. It's shutting the car down before it has reached operating temperature which tends to sludge oils, foul emissions equipment, etc ...

"While we are on the subject of winter driving and this IS an oil board, just what weight oil should I be using in the winter (in a place with sub-zero nights, daytime highs usually below freezing)?"

Generally speaking, 5W30. Some quickie oil change places use only 10W30 oil. this might be OK in your area ... as long as the car turns over in the morning. Pennzoil is a perfectly good choice, I wouldn't switch.

--- Bror Jace

 

[JakeGMCHD]

I like to run my Espar Pre-heater for 30-45 minutes which usually warms the engine to 180 degrees before starting. So I usually get in fire up wait about 30 seconds then start moving slowly. The first few miles try not to accelerate fast or rev the engine. This is in a 6.6L diesel with Amsoil threw out the vehicle.

 

[TheTanSedan]

Any big motor, gas or diesel, northern or southern would benefit by an Espar (or Webasto) pre-heater. Cold weather simply means harder starting, BUT they all still have to warm to operating temps. Little motors do seem to come up to op temp more easily.

As to neighbors speeding away (first post), it's pretty obvious they don't care about their cars.
(Plus, as the median age is about thirty-five, fewer than half now remember what points, carbs and such were like to deal with on a cold motor).

Which is also why they are never without a car payment.

There is a balance, and if one keeps a vehicle 150,000 miles or 12-years (when the wiring definitely becomes problematic), then one is relatively well-set as to money spent versus benefit received.

To do otherwise is to throw away a LOT of money.

Good maintenance means not waiting until things wear out, nor using re-man parts. The car ought to be kept as new as possible for as long as possible.

Reasonably short idle periods are crucial to that.
Or, at least take it out and drive it on a 1-200 mile trip monthly.

 

[2533a]

No way I could scrape the windshield, rear window and all four side windows with only a 30-40 second warmup. In single digits and below I let my car and truck warm up for about five minutes at which point I have some heat to keep the windshield clear. I really need a couple of block heaters or a big garage.

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by 2533a:
No way I could scrape the windshield, rear window and all four side windows with only a 30-40 second warmup. In single digits and below I let my car and truck warm up for about five minutes at which point I have some heat to keep the windshield clear. I really need a couple of block heaters or a big garage.

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Why not do the window cleaning before you start the engine? This morning it was only -5F here, so I cleaned off the dusting of snow off the car first, then started the engine, ran it less than 30 seconds before pulling away. The steering was super stiff at first (thanks to GM morning sickness) but otherwise all was well. I kept the rpms below 1500 for the first two minutes, then below 2000 for the next 5 or 6 minutes after that. It took a full 6 miles of driving before the coolant reached operating temperature today! Based on my oil pressure, I estimate it took about 10 or 11 miles before the oil reached operating temperature.