From Wimberly it should be about 4 hours. Give or take.
Do people really use Non Detergent oil?....They do around here!
- Thread starter Mr TCar
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Good point - SF's gotta be a sea-change improvement over SA. Now if 99 Cent Stores would just start carrying the new synthetic blend 76 5W-20 and 5W-30 motor oils. And dare I hope for Champion Labs produced "Valuecraft" oil filters for 99 cents, too? Can you say six dollar synthetic blend oil and filter changes?...
I'll bet that straight 30 was detergent oil. There is nothing wrong with using 30 in hot climates. In the 1990's GM still allowed straight 30 in some owners manuals. The question was about SA-rated non-detergent.
So one probably could do well with this stuff by adding Lube Control.
Laycock, the manufacturer of the electro-hydraulic overdrive gearbox in my '72 TR6 (also used in '60's - 70's Volvos) specifies ND 30W fill. That's what I use. I suspect the recommendation is partly to make sure wear particles settle in the sump and don't get dispersed throughout the hydraulics.
... was thinking. what if you took cheap ND oil "30wt" and mix it with (VALVOLINE SYNPOWER OIL TREATMENT)? i have a old car that i rarly use for anything but fun and was wondering what would happen if i tried this oil/treatment mix. would the synpower give it cleaning power? i'm guessing it would boast the ND oil really well in protection. It would probly just make it more like a unrefine standard oil ...
--Idoxash
PS) Yup my first post but a long time reader
--Idoxash
PS) Yup my first post but a long time reader
why people use non-detergent oils is beyond me,, the only reasons I can think of is the (old) cars with leather,and old style plain rubber seals within the engine which require just a plain non featured lube,,or small air compressers and some vacume pumps,and sleeve bearings....BL
I have used it in the past to run a fresh rebuild in for the first 20 to 30 minutes with GM EOS added for the cam. Then it's drained and a detergent oil is added along with a new fiter.
I like that idea Paul! Sometime ago I posted a thread about trying the cheapest dino oil I can find at Autozone or something and add some LC to it. My thinking was to send in a VOA of the oil. Next run for 3K then UOA. Add some LC then do another 3K and UOA and see what my findings are. Now that you mention it, ND oil with LC?? I would love to see those kind of numbers, lol ARquote:
Originally posted by TallPaul:
So one probably could do well with this stuff by adding Lube Control.Or at least it would make for a good extreme test of Lube Control's capabilities.
Monograde does not equal ND. Delo even comes in mono 30, not for EGR equipped engines though. Only a total goofus would put ND in a decent car.
Kestas
Staff member
I thought one reason to use non-detergent oil was that it didn't foam as much as detergent oil, and that's why it's more desirable to use in lawn mowers. Can anybody confirm or deny this?
I'm not a goofus.
If a motor is not dirty and the oil is to be run for a short time there is no need to pay for additives that just are not needed.
"pay for additives"???
What year and condition is your car anyway?
It's not exactly a secret around here that modern oils are cost/effective.
Did you ever pull a UOA, BTW?
What year and condition is your car anyway?
It's not exactly a secret around here that modern oils are cost/effective.
Did you ever pull a UOA, BTW?
API Service Category SA oils have much more missing than just detergents. They have most of the modern additive package missing. They are not suitable for any engine built since the '30s. SB oils have a very low level of additives and aren't suitable for any engine built after 1963. In any case, a modern oil, straight weight or multi-weight will do a better job in every engine than the SA & SB oils will do.
Air compressors and gear boxes have different requirements. The additives tend to emulsify water. In an air compressor I want the water to lay in the bottom of the crankcase so I can drain it off. Gear boxes also have their own requirements that do not relate to engines.
Ken
Air compressors and gear boxes have different requirements. The additives tend to emulsify water. In an air compressor I want the water to lay in the bottom of the crankcase so I can drain it off. Gear boxes also have their own requirements that do not relate to engines.
Sorry, but the addtives are needed. They are detergents, dispersants, antiwear agents, antioxidants, antifoamants, viscosity index improvers, pour point depressants, and others. All engines benefit from these. Modern engines NEED them. And they cost no more, or maybe pennies more.
Ken
Very nicely said, Ken. Heck, even Britney Spears prefers modern lubricants!
Most everything I build are air/oil Suzuki's and pre '86 Chevy V8's. They are new rebuilds, not the car I drive everyday. I wouldn't drive around with that junk in my crankcase. I only use the stuff sometimes for the first 20 minute run with EOS then it's dumped. This is done to run in the cams and rinse any crud that might be in the motor.
Anywho, I think we were barking up different trees.
I
Anywho, I think we were barking up different trees.
I
I though the ND meant "Never Drain".
MolaKule
Staff member
What I find interesting about the ND oils is the price.
In my view, they should NOT cost more than $75/Quart.
In fact, I find some ND oils priced higher than detergent HD oils at some of the Farm and Ranch stores up here.
Maybe ND oils are the new Botique oils??
In my view, they should NOT cost more than $75/Quart.
Maybe ND oils are the new Botique oils??
You won't get any argument about thatquote:
Originally posted by MolaKule:
In my view, they should NOT cost more than $75/Quart.
The actual price diference probably has something to do with the lower volume and the fact that most people buying it don't have a clue, so will pay more.
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