quote:I don't know about you, but when I aim at a target, I aim at the center. So are you saying the target value is 3/16" (This still sounds big to me!!) plus or minus a 1/32"?
Originally posted by Nebraskan: Between 1/16" to 1/8" toe is nominal for the rear Park Avenue.
Discount Tire Direct vs. Tirerack
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I got the toe in info for the rear tires here:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=606679
I really want to be right on this, so I would imagine if I adjust them out a bit so that they ar 1/16" that would be good.
quote:That sounds a lot more reasonable, 3/8 sounded downright wierd. You should still try to find the correct numbers from a reliable source instead of an unsubstantiated number in a forum.
Originally posted by Nebraskan: I got the toe in info for the rear tires here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=606679 I really want to be right on this, so I would imagine if I adjust them out a bit so that they ar 1/16" that would be good.
Gee, XS650.... I thought you were the reliable source!! :0)
We had OEM Michelin MXV4+ tires on our 02 Accord V6. My brother-in-law who is a tire shop manager, been in tire biz for over 20 years, told me to keep the tires at 40 PSI. Door label showed recommended PSI of 30. Max cold PSI for these tires was 44. We rotated the tires every 6-8K miles. I have read comments from many owners saying their MXV4s wore out under 40K miles. When we sold the car, it had 69.4K miles on it and the tires still had enough tread left to pass inspection. Our fuel MPG improved. I keep the tires on our new Accord at 40 PSI also.
I do think that the manufacturers recoemmend somewhat lower tire inflation for ride comfort. I can live with how it feels at 40 PSI and prefer the better fuel MPG and tire tread life.
I also wish to thank CapriRacer for his most valuable insights!!
bought 4 Yoko YK4S from Discount Tire + Warranty on all 4. Within 6 weeks and about 2500mi the tires started to vibrate pretty bad. They replaced all 4, without hassle, with a better tire, the YK5S. Been about 6 weeks with the new tires and i am quite happy with experience. Free lifetime balancing/rotation is real nice, as much as I drive i have them rotated about every 3 weeks. Always professional, and quick.
Discount Tire at Concord Mills Mall in Concord, NC, is the shizzle.
yeah DTD is a few $$ higher than just going to sears!! a good year aasurance triple tread was $5-$8 higher tha just walking into sears and buying it. and since i would have to pay tax at sears it comes out to the same price. the only difference is NO waiting and i leave the sameday with the tires i wanted...
chris
quote:Just checked the toe in on the front. I had the fron jacked up and checked the middle of the tire half way up front and back. it was 58 11/16" on the front measurement and 58 15/16" on the rear measurement. From that I would certainly guess that it is toed in and probably a lot too much if I did my measuring correctly. Vern
Originally posted by CapriRacer:quote:I don't know about you, but when I aim at a target, I aim at the center. So are you saying the target value is 3/16" (This still sounds big to me!!) plus or minus a 1/32"?
Originally posted by Nebraskan: Between 1/16" to 1/8" toe is nominal for the rear Park Avenue.
quote:The vehicle has to be in the condition you use it to get the proper alignment. You want to measure it just like it goes down the road. That means on the ground and some folks even add sandbags in the seats to simulate the weight of passengers. Since you seem to be both energetic and resourceful, try this: Take a 2X4 and some plywood. Measure the distance from the floor to the center of the front wheel. Call this distance "X". Cut the plywood into 2 rectangles - each about 6" by "X". Nail one of the rectangles on the "4" part of the 2X4 at the end with the "X" at right angles to the 2X4. Mark the center of the top of plywood with a thin but visible line. (Painting the top of the plywood white and using a thin magic marker works well. Position the device such that the line on the plywood is at the center of the one of the tires and the plywood is vertical with the 2X4 stretching under the car. Go to the other side of the car and figure out where the other plywood recatngle needs to be so it's centered on the tire like the other side. No need for accuracy here - close enough is close enough. Nail the plywood in that position. Mark off a series of small lines at the top of the unmarked plywood (the one you just attached) about 1/16" apart. A small scale works even better. What you should now have is a "U" shaped device. Measure the front of the tires, then measure the rear and just like you did before, the difference is the total toe. This device is called a Trammel bar. This has been used many times and can be highly accurate for measuring toe if used correctly. You may find that you have to trim the plywood in order to get it in and out from under the car, but under no circumstances should you move the car or jack it up - move the bar. Try laying the bar flat on the ground with the 2X4 further away from the tire. Raise the bar into position, moving the 2X4 closer as you go. Hope this helps.
Originally posted by Nebraskan: .....I had the front jacked up and checked.....if I did my measuring correctly. Vern
Excellent CapriRacer I was having and idea on how this all worked and so did a google seach on Trammel Bar and came up with this link.
http://members.shaw.ca/rjsill/tech.htm Very similar to what hyou are talking about I'm sure.
Basically, what you are building is a homemade vernier caliper of the LARGE size. LOL I have one that measures out to 4 inches, many are out to 6" but few are ever made out to 60" or so.
This is also a good link to a home made tammel bar for illustrative purposes: http://wrx.dicknogs.net/suspension/toe_trammelbar.jpg
Nebraskan,
Yup, that photo is straight out of Fred Puhn's "How to make your car handle" - an excellent reference book.
Well, this thread has veered way off the original topic... but I did think that I should update that I did make the purchase from DTD and everything was fine. I even got the rebate check within the promised timeframe (albeit just barely).
I compare and then buy from the cheaper source. Price-matching is bull. Whoever POSTS the lower price gets my business....anything else encourages them to not lower their posted price.
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