Lots or opinions, mine is probably, get a used oil analysis and be sure.
Dino safe for a one year interval?
- Thread starter Corollaman
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My last 3 cars had the same engine.....the Volvo B5244S (5 cylinder, 2,435cc, non-turbo).
Evolved into using Mobil 1 0W-40, 7,500 mi. factory OCI.
In a few weeks-at 7,000 mi.- I'm sending oil off for analysis.
I don't want to extend OCI's. I just want to make sure I don't NEED to shorten them.
It's all about being nice to the engine.
I don't want waxes and dinosaur toenails transformed into sludge.
Thanks for understanding.
Evolved into using Mobil 1 0W-40, 7,500 mi. factory OCI.
In a few weeks-at 7,000 mi.- I'm sending oil off for analysis.
I don't want to extend OCI's. I just want to make sure I don't NEED to shorten them.
It's all about being nice to the engine.
I don't want waxes and dinosaur toenails transformed into sludge.
Thanks for understanding.
Originally Posted By: 69Torino
I’m not saying the engine will self destruct at 5,001 miles, but over time and with lack of diligence (6,500 Miles here, 7,100 miles there...what’s another couple hundred miles gonna hurt...) varnish can be deposited, and varnish accumulates. All the sudden you have accumulated a few oil changes worth of varnish and your oil control valve screens have clogged up and you have a CEL with a P0011 or P0014 and you’re saying what the.... happened! I never went more than 7,500 miles! Not to mention 6,000 miles a year is likely in town short trip pattern, and short tripping causes condensation to form and not get burned off in the crankcase. Condensation mixed with combustion byproduct creates bearing eating acids. Not worth it to me.
Average engine replacement at my dealership runs about $5,000. Two $40 oil changes a year (which I never pay, my oil changes cost me between $10 and $20) would take 62.5 years to reach a cost equilibrium. So yes, it would take over 62 years to make “over changing your oil” cost more than replacing your engine. It’s cheaper than car insurance, which you may never use.
That is a very good point on the cost. I have always looked at oil changes as fairly cheap insurance. I fully understand changing the oil in my Tundra 2x a year with it's 8.5 quart sump and oil cooler....using M1 or PP......that I'm probably wasting serviceable oil. However, it gives me a chance to look things over and I know for certain what type of oil and filter I'm putting in.
I’m not saying the engine will self destruct at 5,001 miles, but over time and with lack of diligence (6,500 Miles here, 7,100 miles there...what’s another couple hundred miles gonna hurt...) varnish can be deposited, and varnish accumulates. All the sudden you have accumulated a few oil changes worth of varnish and your oil control valve screens have clogged up and you have a CEL with a P0011 or P0014 and you’re saying what the.... happened! I never went more than 7,500 miles! Not to mention 6,000 miles a year is likely in town short trip pattern, and short tripping causes condensation to form and not get burned off in the crankcase. Condensation mixed with combustion byproduct creates bearing eating acids. Not worth it to me.
Average engine replacement at my dealership runs about $5,000. Two $40 oil changes a year (which I never pay, my oil changes cost me between $10 and $20) would take 62.5 years to reach a cost equilibrium. So yes, it would take over 62 years to make “over changing your oil” cost more than replacing your engine. It’s cheaper than car insurance, which you may never use.
That is a very good point on the cost. I have always looked at oil changes as fairly cheap insurance. I fully understand changing the oil in my Tundra 2x a year with it's 8.5 quart sump and oil cooler....using M1 or PP......that I'm probably wasting serviceable oil. However, it gives me a chance to look things over and I know for certain what type of oil and filter I'm putting in.
Originally Posted By: hallstevenson
Originally Posted By: Corollaman
I know GM and Chrysler state a certain amount of miles or not exceed 1 yr on intervals according to their oil monitoring systems.
Our '14 Ford Fusion has an OLM that goes ~10k miles between oil changes and specs regular 5W-20 oil. Not synthetic, not even synthetic blend. The manual also says not to exceed 1 year either no matter the mileage. I saw a post from an owner of a similar Fusion that drove very little miles but kept an eye on the monitor. For the first 6 months, it only decreased (from 100%) minimally, then decreased a little faster for the next few months, and when it reached the 11-12th month, it moved to 0% oil life remaining.
You may want to reread your owners manual regarding your choice of oil. At a minimum you should be using MC 5w-20 Semi-Synthetic oil in the car. It requires the WSS-M2C945-A spec which is semi-synthetic..
And, most oil manufacturers state to change oil atleast once a year, even Amsoil!
Originally Posted By: Corollaman
I know GM and Chrysler state a certain amount of miles or not exceed 1 yr on intervals according to their oil monitoring systems.
Our '14 Ford Fusion has an OLM that goes ~10k miles between oil changes and specs regular 5W-20 oil. Not synthetic, not even synthetic blend. The manual also says not to exceed 1 year either no matter the mileage. I saw a post from an owner of a similar Fusion that drove very little miles but kept an eye on the monitor. For the first 6 months, it only decreased (from 100%) minimally, then decreased a little faster for the next few months, and when it reached the 11-12th month, it moved to 0% oil life remaining.
You may want to reread your owners manual regarding your choice of oil. At a minimum you should be using MC 5w-20 Semi-Synthetic oil in the car. It requires the WSS-M2C945-A spec which is semi-synthetic..
And, most oil manufacturers state to change oil atleast once a year, even Amsoil!
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Or how about GDI turbo boosted motors that thin oil viscosity so greatly that is it not safe to run even 5k miles??? Which there are documented cases of this happening. Good, bad or indifferent there are times where doing what works in one circumstance does not work in another.
I change the oil in my lady's friend who has a Nissan. Very short trips a lot of the time. In as little has 4k miles the oil is jet black and nasty. In my car it never has ever looked that bad. I disagree with people who say looks don't matter on a gasoline powered car or truck. It does to a degree. Obviously on a diesel it doesn't matter because it gets black very, very, very quickly. But when a gasoline powered car or truck's oil get jet black and that nasty smelling of gas... The way that oil looks and smells matters. Especially when the oil capacity is on 4.5 qts. In her Nissan a short run is a good thing. My car run for the same distance and it looks way, way better than what comes out of her Nissan. Because it does see long trips up to full operating temperature. That helps a lot.
You, sir, have been here long enough to know that what an oil looks like is not a reliable indicator of condition, and neither is a gasoline smell. Her Nissan may require shorter intervals or it may not. You might recall threads on BITOG where gasoline powered vehicles turned their oil black within 1500 miles. With your logic those people would be changing their oil monthly.
Or how about GDI turbo boosted motors that thin oil viscosity so greatly that is it not safe to run even 5k miles??? Which there are documented cases of this happening. Good, bad or indifferent there are times where doing what works in one circumstance does not work in another.
I change the oil in my lady's friend who has a Nissan. Very short trips a lot of the time. In as little has 4k miles the oil is jet black and nasty. In my car it never has ever looked that bad. I disagree with people who say looks don't matter on a gasoline powered car or truck. It does to a degree. Obviously on a diesel it doesn't matter because it gets black very, very, very quickly. But when a gasoline powered car or truck's oil get jet black and that nasty smelling of gas... The way that oil looks and smells matters. Especially when the oil capacity is on 4.5 qts. In her Nissan a short run is a good thing. My car run for the same distance and it looks way, way better than what comes out of her Nissan. Because it does see long trips up to full operating temperature. That helps a lot.
You, sir, have been here long enough to know that what an oil looks like is not a reliable indicator of condition, and neither is a gasoline smell. Her Nissan may require shorter intervals or it may not. You might recall threads on BITOG where gasoline powered vehicles turned their oil black within 1500 miles. With your logic those people would be changing their oil monthly.
Our Tuscon only get driven maybe 6 to 8k per year and so far have just used regular conventional and change it at 5k though I think one time it went to 7k, but it gets easy hiway miles for the most part and I never tow anything. My Mom probably put on maybe 3k per year when she was retired and living in Fargo and had her conventional oil 5w30 changed right before winter on her 95 Camry and never any issues even with lots of subzero -20 and below starts and probably 100% of her driving was in the city limits. For her driving style once per year was fine.
Originally Posted By: Corollaman
2012 corolla gets driven 6,000-7,000 per year. Is a dino safe for that interval or just stick with a budget synthetic oil? I've used chevron supreme in the past for six month intervals but it seemed like a waste to dump it at 3,000 mile six month intervals.
Will easily do 6-7000 mile OCI's on conventional oil. I personally would use a budget synthetic though. Why use conventional oil when you can get a budget synthetic for not much more.
2012 corolla gets driven 6,000-7,000 per year. Is a dino safe for that interval or just stick with a budget synthetic oil? I've used chevron supreme in the past for six month intervals but it seemed like a waste to dump it at 3,000 mile six month intervals.
Will easily do 6-7000 mile OCI's on conventional oil. I personally would use a budget synthetic though. Why use conventional oil when you can get a budget synthetic for not much more.
I imagine conventional will be fine, but with the low cost of synthetics, both brand name on sale or Walmart types, why not use synthetic?
To me the bigger question, as others have stated, is are you getting the oil hot enough to burn off contaminants?
To me the bigger question, as others have stated, is are you getting the oil hot enough to burn off contaminants?
Why would you bother with this when you can buy name brand full synthetics on sale with a rebate for less and not have to wonder?
Just buy Mobil EP or similar and an Ultra or similar.
Run 15k and two years.
Run 15k and two years.
Chevron Supreme is a good oil, I wouldn't worry about it.
Originally Posted By: JLTD
Without data your answer is maybe. Do a used oil analysis and you will know for sure.
A used oil analysis will cost as much as an oil change
Without data your answer is maybe. Do a used oil analysis and you will know for sure.
A used oil analysis will cost as much as an oil change
Originally Posted By: Pelican
Originally Posted By: JLTD
Without data your answer is maybe. Do a used oil analysis and you will know for sure.
A used oil analysis will cost as much as an oil change
Correct, but in this case with that data if the driving conditions remain the same there is no need for another one unless conditions change or he suspects a problem. So over time it could actually save the OP money, even if he needed a second used oil analysis to dial things in.
Originally Posted By: JLTD
Without data your answer is maybe. Do a used oil analysis and you will know for sure.
A used oil analysis will cost as much as an oil change
Correct, but in this case with that data if the driving conditions remain the same there is no need for another one unless conditions change or he suspects a problem. So over time it could actually save the OP money, even if he needed a second used oil analysis to dial things in.
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Just buy Mobil EP or similar and an Ultra or similar.
Run 15k and two years.
No, even Mobil EP states " oil change must be completed very 12 months"
Just buy Mobil EP or similar and an Ultra or similar.
Run 15k and two years.
No, even Mobil EP states " oil change must be completed very 12 months"
Originally Posted By: rossn2
You may want to reread your owners manual regarding your choice of oil. At a minimum you should be using MC 5w-20 Semi-Synthetic oil in the car. It requires the WSS-M2C945-A spec which is semi-synthetic..
And, most oil manufacturers state to change oil atleast once a year, even Amsoil!
The manual doesn't refer to conventional, semi-synthetic, blend, full synthetic, etc, just that "MCC" specification and nowhere did I find that that is a synthetic blend. The best thing I found was from here:
Quote:
Recommended motor oil (U.S.): Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W20-QSP WSS-M2C945-A
Recommended motor oil (Canada): Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12 WSS-M2C945-A
"Super Premium" is not synthetic either.
I also stated, per the manual, not to exceed 1 year.
You may want to reread your owners manual regarding your choice of oil. At a minimum you should be using MC 5w-20 Semi-Synthetic oil in the car. It requires the WSS-M2C945-A spec which is semi-synthetic..
And, most oil manufacturers state to change oil atleast once a year, even Amsoil!
The manual doesn't refer to conventional, semi-synthetic, blend, full synthetic, etc, just that "MCC" specification and nowhere did I find that that is a synthetic blend. The best thing I found was from here:
Quote:
Recommended motor oil (U.S.): Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W20-QSP WSS-M2C945-A
Recommended motor oil (Canada): Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12 WSS-M2C945-A
"Super Premium" is not synthetic either.
I also stated, per the manual, not to exceed 1 year.
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Maybe I'll try supertech synthetic 0w-20, it's on sale for $15 here. Three dollars more than chevron supreme 5w-20 conventional in the five quart container.
Originally Posted By: Corollaman
Maybe I'll try supertech synthetic 0w-20, it's on sale for $15 here. Three dollars more than chevron supreme 5w-20 conventional in the five quart container.
The Pennzoil Platinum $2/qt rebate runs until end of June. Ideally you can find some $22 jugs at Walmart to best utilize that rebate. Though my local stores show it currently at $27.76. Last month it was $22.
Pennzoil Platinuminum rebate
Maybe I'll try supertech synthetic 0w-20, it's on sale for $15 here. Three dollars more than chevron supreme 5w-20 conventional in the five quart container.
The Pennzoil Platinum $2/qt rebate runs until end of June. Ideally you can find some $22 jugs at Walmart to best utilize that rebate. Though my local stores show it currently at $27.76. Last month it was $22.
Pennzoil Platinuminum rebate
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Pelican
Originally Posted By: JLTD
Without data your answer is maybe. Do a used oil analysis and you will know for sure.
A used oil analysis will cost as much as an oil change
Correct, but in this case with that data if the driving conditions remain the same there is no need for another one unless conditions change or he suspects a problem. So over time it could actually save the OP money, even if he needed a second used oil analysis to dial things in.
Thank you, demarpaint. I would like to add that since OP is concerned, that a used oil analysis will both give him his answer, avoid engine sludge, and give peace of mind as well. Until then, it is sheer speculation.
Originally Posted By: Pelican
Originally Posted By: JLTD
Without data your answer is maybe. Do a used oil analysis and you will know for sure.
A used oil analysis will cost as much as an oil change
Correct, but in this case with that data if the driving conditions remain the same there is no need for another one unless conditions change or he suspects a problem. So over time it could actually save the OP money, even if he needed a second used oil analysis to dial things in.
Thank you, demarpaint. I would like to add that since OP is concerned, that a used oil analysis will both give him his answer, avoid engine sludge, and give peace of mind as well. Until then, it is sheer speculation.
Originally Posted By: hallstevenson
Originally Posted By: rossn2
You may want to reread your owners manual regarding your choice of oil. At a minimum you should be using MC 5w-20 Semi-Synthetic oil in the car. It requires the WSS-M2C945-A spec which is semi-synthetic..
And, most oil manufacturers state to change oil atleast once a year, even Amsoil!
The manual doesn't refer to conventional, semi-synthetic, blend, full synthetic, etc, just that "MCC" specification and nowhere did I find that that is a synthetic blend. The best thing I found was from here:
Quote:
Recommended motor oil (U.S.): Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W20-QSP WSS-M2C945-A
Recommended motor oil (Canada): Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12 WSS-M2C945-A
"Super Premium" is not synthetic either.
I also stated, per the manual, not to exceed 1 year.
Yes, it doesn't say specifically in the manual it shows the code it has to meet- WSS-M2C945-A. You answered your own statement/question..in that WSS-M2C945-A is Ford's Synthetic Blend oil.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.c...ory=Motor%20Oil
Originally Posted By: rossn2
You may want to reread your owners manual regarding your choice of oil. At a minimum you should be using MC 5w-20 Semi-Synthetic oil in the car. It requires the WSS-M2C945-A spec which is semi-synthetic..
And, most oil manufacturers state to change oil atleast once a year, even Amsoil!
The manual doesn't refer to conventional, semi-synthetic, blend, full synthetic, etc, just that "MCC" specification and nowhere did I find that that is a synthetic blend. The best thing I found was from here:
Quote:
Recommended motor oil (U.S.): Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W20-QSP WSS-M2C945-A
Recommended motor oil (Canada): Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12 WSS-M2C945-A
"Super Premium" is not synthetic either.
I also stated, per the manual, not to exceed 1 year.
Yes, it doesn't say specifically in the manual it shows the code it has to meet- WSS-M2C945-A. You answered your own statement/question..in that WSS-M2C945-A is Ford's Synthetic Blend oil.
https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.c...ory=Motor%20Oil
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: rossn2
Yes, it doesn't say specifically in the manual it shows the code it has to meet- WSS-M2C945-A. You answered your own statement/question..in that WSS-M2C945-A is Ford's Synthetic Blend oil.
However, many conventional oils have that approval.
Yes, it doesn't say specifically in the manual it shows the code it has to meet- WSS-M2C945-A. You answered your own statement/question..in that WSS-M2C945-A is Ford's Synthetic Blend oil.
However, many conventional oils have that approval.
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