dino + mmo vs synthetic

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Originally Posted By: HyperJinx
Dont people add mmo to their crank case purely for the detergent factor. I cant imagine that adding MMO would improve any aspect of a conventional oil(of the proper weight) except detergent factor.
+1 Perhaps I misinterpreted the OP's post, when he taked about add pack I thought he was referring more to possible improved detergency/cleaning, as opposed to using MMO to modify oil weight/viscosity. I would see little or no point in the latter no matter whether conventional or syn.
Originally Posted By: ProfPS
If you are looking for thin your conventional for cold temps without being be concerned with MMO's possible lack of protection, why not replace one of the OC qts with a thinner grade conventional or even a synthtic?
Agreed.
 
Quote:
Since most engine wear occours at start-up, adding any extra protection at all is only logical.


Ah, yes, Castrol's "90% of all wear occurs at startup" ..which they don't tell you is about the first 20 minutes.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Originally Posted By: HyperJinx
Dont people add mmo to their crank case purely for the detergent factor. I cant imagine that adding MMO would improve any aspect of a conventional oil(of the proper weight) except detergent factor.
+1 Perhaps I misinterpreted the OP's post, when he taked about add pack I thought he was referring more to possible improved detergency/cleaning, as opposed to using MMO to modify oil weight/viscosity. I would see little or no point in the latter no matter whether conventional or syn.


Yes, I was asking about improved detergency/cleaning.

Thanks
 
chevrofreak - You will get SOME UCL lubing with MMO in the crankcase [and cleaning]. The cylinders, pistons, and rings are 'upper cylinder' parts.
I have MMO in my main car now, but I don't intend to use it all the time in the crankcase.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Why would you change out a quality synthetic after only 5000 miles?

Perhaps he likes to change oil, and/or wants time away from the wife and can't wait beyond 5k.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
chevrofreak - You will get SOME UCL lubing with MMO in the crankcase [and cleaning]. The cylinders, pistons, and rings are 'upper cylinder' parts.
I have MMO in my main car now, but I don't intend to use it all the time in the crankcase.


Yes, and I should've worded my statement a little differently also. he he, that's what I get for posting here on BITOG at 5:30 in the morning. Edit function doesn't last long enough either.

One thing I didn't mention is that MMO seems to help the cold-flow properties as well - a concern with single-digit or below temperatures. Both my cars definately make much less noise on a cold morning startup with MMO in the crankcase.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
chevrofreak - You will get SOME UCL lubing with MMO in the crankcase [and cleaning]. The cylinders, pistons, and rings are 'upper cylinder' parts.
I have MMO in my main car now, but I don't intend to use it all the time in the crankcase.


Not much more than you would get with oil alone.
 
Originally Posted By: KW
MMO and Rotella T 15W40 in the old Dodge and even in 9 degree weather -- POW! Oil pressure right now at cold start up.


80% Rotella 15w40 and 20% MMO together in the crankcase, as I understand it, makes a 10w30 viscosity very high detergency oil. When I buy a used car, I run one OCI through for good measure and then go to straight synthetic forevermore.

I've used MMO several times since the 1970s when dealing with known sludge in my cars and those of friends and noisy lifters have been silenced in a few hundred miles every time. I haven't run it for a full OCI in those cases, but changed to regular oil with a new filter after 500 - 1000 miles. I've seen some nasty stuff come out of engines in those instances, including particles that looked like coffee grounds in the filter of a GM 5.7L Vortec that had had coolent in the oil due to the famous Dexcool/intake manifold gasket problem before the lifter noise started. That engine ran for me another 70K miles until I sold it with about 140K miles on the odometer without lifter noises or any further problems, and as far as I know it is still running for the new owner.

While I've never run MMO in a crankcase routinely, I have started adding to gas every time I fill up with the new E-10 fuel since running into some performance problems when the alcohol first went into the gas station tanks.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
MMO is useful in the crankcase in very cold weather,


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Originally Posted By: af0h
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
chevrofreak - You will get SOME UCL lubing with MMO in the crankcase [and cleaning]. The cylinders, pistons, and rings are 'upper cylinder' parts.
I have MMO in my main car now, but I don't intend to use it all the time in the crankcase.


Yes, and I should've worded my statement a little differently also. he he, that's what I get for posting here on BITOG at 5:30 in the morning. Edit function doesn't last long enough either.

One thing I didn't mention is that MMO seems to help the cold-flow properties as well - a concern with single-digit or below temperatures. Both my cars definately make much less noise on a cold morning startup with MMO in the crankcase.



MMO definately helps with cold starts, it is more dramatic when it gets well below 0*F. If you decide to do a used oil analysis with MMO I would suggest doing it on the second or third run, it will be doing a lot of cleaning and that cleaning might be reflected in the used oil analysis. There are a handful of used oil analysis here on the site with MMO and they were actually pretty good. Lately though I've seen a lot of botched up used oil analysis so they really don't have me jumping up and down to get one. JMO


Originally Posted By: ronrackley
Originally Posted By: KW
MMO and Rotella T 15W40 in the old Dodge and even in 9 degree weather -- POW! Oil pressure right now at cold start up.


80% Rotella 15w40 and 20% MMO together in the crankcase, as I understand it, makes a 10w30 viscosity very high detergency oil. When I buy a used car, I run one OCI through for good measure and then go to straight synthetic forevermore.

I've used MMO several times since the 1970s when dealing with known sludge in my cars and those of friends and noisy lifters have been silenced in a few hundred miles every time. I haven't run it for a full OCI in those cases, but changed to regular oil with a new filter after 500 - 1000 miles. I've seen some nasty stuff come out of engines in those instances, including particles that looked like coffee grounds in the filter of a GM 5.7L Vortec that had had coolent in the oil due to the famous Dexcool/intake manifold gasket problem before the lifter noise started. That engine ran for me another 70K miles until I sold it with about 140K miles on the odometer without lifter noises or any further problems, and as far as I know it is still running for the new owner.

While I've never run MMO in a crankcase routinely, I have started adding to gas every time I fill up with the new E-10 fuel since running into some performance problems when the alcohol first went into the gas station tanks.



Nice report. While I never went up a grade to use it, it does sound like a pretty good way for people in fear of thinning their oil to try it for cleaning. I never noticed much difference in hot idle OP with MMO. For me it lowers oil pressure when the oil is cold in very low temps. Something I consider good.

IMO mixing it with dino to get something like a synthetic is not happening. If I want a synthetic oil I'll buy it.
 
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