4wd
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Did you ever get a temp with FF (lighter) gear oil or was the sensor not there until you went 140 ?
Differential temperature?
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I did not install the temp sensor until I went to 75W-140. Since I will be re-gearing within the next 1K miles or so, for the last OC I used 85W-140 Shell Spirax (which is what I will use to break the new gears in) and it runs the same temperatures as the 75W-140. Driving between 75 and 80MPH yesterday in 90°F ambient temperatures, it ranged between 215 and 225°F
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Thanks - will likely keep 85W140 Valvoline in for the summer at least …
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Thought his cooling covers were only for HD series … unless GB has expanded the product line …
Do you have an IR temp gun so you can perhaps see how closely it reads to your installed sensor?
I think more than myself would be interested in the comparison.
I guess emissivity wise, how shiny the black paint on the diff is, also plays a part.
My aluminum radiator reads wacky(low) on shiny aluminum but the black painted section I added reads as expected, or very close to it.
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No, but I trust the readings I have. I am running ISS Pro gauges which are some of the best on the market and the sensor is directly in the oil path when the axle is turning.
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You and I will agree on most things … not this.
GB has put fins on the inside to soak up heat … and external fins with ram air on the other side to remove heat.
As for the rest ? He confirmed that an OEM dome shape (his with containment fins) helps carry a concentration of flow to the ring/pinion interface - and plenty flow to forward bearings …
Lastly that more oil capacity just heats up and cools off slower …
He certainly took 10x longer to explain that than needed …
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1.) pretty standard way to achieve air cooling of oil
2.) nothing comes from the factory with a flat back = horrible design
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Right … with the correct contour … that cover acts as a pump housing and the ring gear forms a “viscous coupling” and works like a pump impeller to bring that oil stream to the pinion hot or cold …
My GM’s have stuck with 75w90 synthetic (or thereabouts) and in fact gear oil was one of the early OEM uses of synthetic … I’m sure temperature extremes and neglected rear ends lead to that decision
What you mentioned might be a good reason Banks stuck with OEM capacity … so it’s not more oil like some aftermarket types claims as a plus …
Seems the front differential on my Jeep gets the oil in a more direct path … (axle cover forward) … but that’s not doing high speed work anyway … Those Dana’s don’t hold much oil … but very easy to change …
This is the Dana aftermarket cover for it … note ring gear contour
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You are not adding a chiller unit to the axle--you are giving the performance of his cooling more credit than it deserves.
I never saw any data from Banks about the actual temperature reductions only his bloviating about how other covers aerate the oil (cover do not aerate the oil, the two gears turning at 90° and smashing the oil between them cause aeration), how more oil versus OEM levels is bad, blah, blah, blah--all of which he offered no data to substantiate nor did he have the data he did share validated by a reputable third party.
In 0°F temperatures, proper viscosity selection will impact the oil thickness at that temperature more than a cover ever will--don't over think it.
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You are not adding a chiller unit to the axle--you are giving the performance of his cooling more credit than it deserves.
I never saw any data from Banks about the actual temperature reductions only his bloviating about how other covers aerate the oil (cover do not aerate the oil, the two gears turning at 90° and smashing the oil between them cause aeration), how more oil versus OEM levels is bad, blah, blah, blah--all of which he offered no data to substantiate nor did he have the data he did share validated by a reputable third party.
In 0°F temperatures, proper viscosity selection will impact the oil thickness at that temperature more than a cover ever will--don't over think it.
Right but its still BTU's in vs BTU's out. The BTU's in don't change, but if the BTU's out don't change either then the cover is a complete waste. I doubt its a waste, but whether its necessary is debatable.
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Agree; too bad there is no validated data showing the "BTU reduction".
I don't know how many videos he made, not how many you watched CarbonSteel, but he did show, with clear covers, the flow characteristics. He also had a video or two where temperatures were taken.
He does use a lot of words to say stuff, that's for certain, and he promotes his covers. So what? He's been in the performance game a long, long time and is extremely knowledgeable - probably doesn't need the $$ at this point. I hope I am as well spoken as Mr Banks when I'm pushing 80.
I am curious what your basis is for dismissing his research out-of-hand?
He does use a lot of words to say stuff, that's for certain, and he promotes his covers. So what? He's been in the performance game a long, long time and is extremely knowledgeable - probably doesn't need the $$ at this point. I hope I am as well spoken as Mr Banks when I'm pushing 80.
I am curious what your basis is for dismissing his research out-of-hand?
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Obligatory #2:
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1. He talks about aeration causing more heat and states the flat back covers create more aeration. OK, based upon what? A visual? There are other YouTube videos of clear covers that mimic the OEM design that have just as much aeration in the oil. The ring and pinion cause the aeration by smashing the oil between them, aeration is not created by the cover or its design. How was the aeration measured between the different cover styles? Which qualified third party verified it? If there is verified increased aeration, what problems does it create or solve?
2. He talks about additional oil causing more heat or that increased capacity means there is more oil to heat and cool down versus OEM levels. What is he using to substantiate that and where is the data to back up that statement? How can additional oil levels cause a marked increase in heat in an axle? Is he suggesting that 2 or 3 additional quarts of oil adds so much more resistance versus the load the axle is under that it makes the axle run hotter?
The oil does not generate heat in and of itself, it is a carrier of heat generated by the ring and pinion and axles turning against the resistance of the load(s) being applied to them. Do we really think that an additional 2 or 3 quarts is going to hold the axle at temperature “X” for a longer period of time versus a lesser amount of oil? If it is true, then what is that longer time interval? 5 minutes, 10, or an hour? Where is the data to substantiate?
Based upon my own experience, I can make the oil temperatures in my Rubicon axle go from 190°F to 225°F simply by increasing my MPH from 65 to 85, but it will drop back down again within minutes and this axle has OEM capacity and axle cover. With that said, the F150/F-250 trucks I had in the past with Mag-Hytec covers would do the exact same, so his statement does not wash without data to back it—unless he is making a typical marketing statement of “it runs hotter because it holds more oil”. OK, how much hotter?
It is very easy to make claims and use unsubstantiated or unscientific data to make a point that seems valid, but data never lies and unless I missed it, I never saw any test reports or data sheets that were verified thereby proving his points. In the end, I tuned out because it was nothing more than an infomercial hawking his new axle cover without ever proving or disproving anything.
Others may and likely do disagree with my stance, but there it is for what its worth...
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