Is there any difference between 5W30 standard automotive engine oils and 5W30 4-cycle small engine oils?
Difference between automotive engine oil and Small Engine Oil?
- Thread starter Darth Xed
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Good question. I was wondering the same. I had bought and used a bottle of MTD Yard Machines 5w30 snowthrower oil for my for my MTD snowthrower when I changed the oil in early May. It did not have any API classifications on it. It just said high detergent. Is it anything special or the same as motor oil or higher or lesser quality than motor oil?
There could be. API SM specs. for autos limit the amount of ZDDP. Your small engines may need more anti-wear agents. API automotive oils are designed for long life of the catalytic converters. Small engines don't have these emission control requirements and may need a different additive package. I would err on the side of caution and run an approved 4-stroke/lawn mower oil over an automotive oil.
Gee...I've only ever used automotive oils in small engines all my life.
GrtArtiste
GrtArtiste
"I would err on the side of caution and run an approved 4-stroke/lawn mower oil over an automotive oil."
I imagine that an OEM power oil might have more ZDDP ... but they are soooo much more expensive and what assurance do we have that they are using a top notch base oil?
And with so much moly and boron in the better automotive oils available, is that much ZDDP really needed anymore? I don't think so.
Save your money and use the cheaper, more widely available automotive oils. Just don't leave them in for too long.
--- Bror Jace
I imagine that an OEM power oil might have more ZDDP ... but they are soooo much more expensive and what assurance do we have that they are using a top notch base oil?
And with so much moly and boron in the better automotive oils available, is that much ZDDP really needed anymore? I don't think so.
Save your money and use the cheaper, more widely available automotive oils. Just don't leave them in for too long.
--- Bror Jace
haley10, I agree that automotive oils can be improved upon when used in an air-cooled application ... with MolaKule's SX-UP, Schaeffer 132 and a few other additives providing useful extra barrier protection.
However most of these engines are horribly neglected and ANY oil changed regularly would ensure a long, long useful life.
Having said that I use Schaeffer 15w40 in most of my power equipment. I'd like to see an lawn & garden OEM oil top their barrier anti-wear package.
In others, I often additivize with the aforementioned products as well as a little Red Line Oil.
But I still say that most people would be perfectly fine using mass-market automotive oil changed regularly.
jef1ge, you won't find many here who think a 20W-50 is ideal for these engines. MolaKule did an informal test a while back and found that the extra thick 20W-50 caused the engines to actually run hotter than a thinner oil.
Most of these engines are designed to run on a 30 weight oil. Some, like me, are big proponents of 15w40 oils in these applications (should be just a bit thicker at temp than a 30 weight) ... but I'd never go thicker than this unless the engine was a total basket-case on its last legs.
The main idea of going with the 15w40 is to get the excellent additive package and shear stability. The same lines of oils Delvac, Chevron Delo400 etc ... in 10w30 would be equally as fine as 15w40 (maybe even better!)
--- Bror Jace
However most of these engines are horribly neglected and ANY oil changed regularly would ensure a long, long useful life.
Having said that I use Schaeffer 15w40 in most of my power equipment. I'd like to see an lawn & garden OEM oil top their barrier anti-wear package.
In others, I often additivize with the aforementioned products as well as a little Red Line Oil.
But I still say that most people would be perfectly fine using mass-market automotive oil changed regularly.
jef1ge, you won't find many here who think a 20W-50 is ideal for these engines. MolaKule did an informal test a while back and found that the extra thick 20W-50 caused the engines to actually run hotter than a thinner oil.
Most of these engines are designed to run on a 30 weight oil. Some, like me, are big proponents of 15w40 oils in these applications (should be just a bit thicker at temp than a 30 weight) ... but I'd never go thicker than this unless the engine was a total basket-case on its last legs.
The main idea of going with the 15w40 is to get the excellent additive package and shear stability. The same lines of oils Delvac, Chevron Delo400 etc ... in 10w30 would be equally as fine as 15w40 (maybe even better!)
--- Bror Jace
Use Castrol GTX 20w50...In the splash sytems.
Well, TooSlick, Amsoil differentiates between these product lines.
Bror, Molakule has the SX-UP for older vehicles, so I have to believe that modern oils may "not" have everything needed for flat tappets, etc or Specialty Formulations wouldn't have considered it.
True we have no way of knowing without analysis if the lawnmower oils are that good or not.
I could send some Briggs SAE 30 for a VOA if it would help anyone.
Bror, Molakule has the SX-UP for older vehicles, so I have to believe that modern oils may "not" have everything needed for flat tappets, etc or Specialty Formulations wouldn't have considered it.
True we have no way of knowing without analysis if the lawnmower oils are that good or not.
I could send some Briggs SAE 30 for a VOA if it would help anyone.
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