Did Valvoline Conventional Fail?

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Originally Posted by Red91
The real question in this thread is, "did my girlfriend FAIL?!".

...‚...‚...‚.. you're playing with 🔥my friend!
 
My girlfriend semi failed when she first got her 2013 Hyundai sonata (used) she thought it would tell her when to change the oil like her old hand me down Windstar did. After 12,000kms (7500 miles) she went to the dealer and asked. They laughed and said no it doesn't tell you. Then she just did it every 3k miles which took about 6-7 months until I met her and realized her oil was black even immediately after an oil change and smells like gas when I check it usually. Now it's done every 3 months.

Direct injection, short trips and cold weather are a completely different animal for oil change intervals. Especially with an engine known to seize up without warning.
 
Originally Posted by Red91
The real question in this thread is, "did my girlfriend FAIL?!".




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The true test of future stability
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by JAG
If I ask you to swim from North America to Europe and you don't make it, you failed to do what I asked you to do. Whether my request was asking too much of a human is irrelevant in the determination of successs or failure. Significant varnish formation in one OCI indicates lubricant failure to keep the engine clean.

I would say oil degradation (thermal breakdown, oil oxidation) is the prime culprit here but it's also possible that the oil was simply ran to long allowing insolubles to build up (soot), that increases the chances for varnish to lay down. Either way, that (conventional) oil spent too much time in the crankcase. A UOA would be telling...



I agree.

LOL Yes technically speaking I failed to get the oil changed. I knew it was due but I didn't think going over by 1,700 miles would be an issue. As I stated too I really don't know what caused it and a UOA would certainly help.

I know this is coming from XOM, but one of the things you'll find with less capable oils is that they are not that great at resisting oxidation over longer drain intervals. If I had to guess, that's what I'm seeing. I've also seen PP thicken when the oil gets tested in more demaning situations. Again though, I'm not saying definitively that Valvoline failed. It's possible, but it's also possible there is something else going on. In hindsight, Maxlife FS would have been a better choice the last time the car was serviced at VOIC.

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Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by MolaKule
"Oils don't fail. Humans fail to change oil."
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Kind of the same thing, but they don't even bother to check the oil level or add oil when it's low. I see so many used cars come in that barely have a drop of oil on the d/s. It only takes a few mins to check and add oil.

Back to the OP, still don't know total miles, how long in service and if the level was checked often, etc....Sometimes the MM can be 8-9k miles as mentioned then add another 1700 to that. Plus if these were tough city miles, short trips, lots of idling, etc...

I recently finished 3-4 intervals of VWB going 5-6k and no complaints what so ever. The only reason I stopped going to this one place is because they weren't rotating the tires when I asked them to. This happened twice. So off to a new place that uses PYB. No real differences noted after 5k on PYB. Then a few hundred miles ago had an indy shop put some PUP 5w20 in that I had on hand. Start ups and idling seem the same as with PYB and VWB. Only difference I noticed was engine seems smoother when accelerating.
 
Originally Posted by MolaKule
"Oils don't fail. Humans fail to change oil."
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That's why I said the #1 problem facing an engine exists between the steering wheel and drivers seat....
 
I'd love to see a sample of this oil. I'm considering it. The viscosity would be interesting to see.
 
Originally Posted by buster


I agree.

LOL Yes technically speaking I failed to get the oil changed. I knew it was due but I didn't think going over by 1,700 miles would be an issue. As I stated too I really don't know what caused it and a UOA would certainly help.

I know this is coming from XOM, but one of the things you'll find with less capable oils is that they are not that great at resisting oxidation over longer drain intervals. If I had to guess, that's what I'm seeing. I've also seen PP thicken when the oil gets tested in more demaning situations. Again though, I'm not saying definitively that Valvoline failed. It's possible, but it's also possible there is something else going on. In hindsight, Maxlife FS would have been a better choice the last time the car was serviced at VOIC.

Right. I can't speak to your specific vehicle but in general, I would do a series of UOA's to establish whether or not my ride was a good candidate for extended drain intervals. For a number of different reasons (eg. excessive blow by), not all vehicles are (good candidates).
 
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Originally Posted by buster
I'd love to see a sample of this oil. I'm considering it. The viscosity would be interesting to see.

Do it.. I'll be watching out for the UOA. I think there's enough interest by many to see it. If you can afford it, get a full report including particle count and TBN. It may just confirm what you suspect already but at least you'll know for sure, right??
 
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Taste test it is the only way to know for for sure.

Do not buy a diesel engine vehicle or you will have a heart attack if visual check of a dipstick does you in like it has here. Like others have mentioned, without a UOA, just a bunch of speculation and bombastic assumptions.
 
This car is about to be turned in, so I'm not concerned about it. I've never seen a dipsitck develop varnish on it that can't be removed. As much as I would like to send of a sample, I don't think I'm going to.
 
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