Did I add too much lubegard to my atf.

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JUSTINPULV

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Hi there my names justin and I'm new to this forum but have been lurking and accumulating knowledge for sometime now. My question is that I recently was getting a little bit of shutter between the 1-2 shift on the auto trans in my 09 corolla.
Just in the past 5k miles.
Car has 57k miles and I have had the fluid flushed previously at 30k miles.
I recently took it to the toyota dealer and they did a complete flush before the 60k mark.
Fast forward 2k miles and the minor shutter between 1-2 is still present. So I did some research and decided to add the lubeguard dr. Transmission additive. I was under the assumption that like most lubeguard products you add 1 oz per at. of atf.So I added 6 oz of the dr.tranny which is 3 tubes.
Fast forward to 600 miles later and the transmission shifts wonderful almost no sign of shudder.
What worries me is upon further research lubeguard only recommends 4 oz. Max of friction modifier.
Did I add to much of the friction modifier and do I have anything to worry about?
 
IMO, you should be fine. I haven't heard of a little extra LG harming anything.

Happy motoring!
19.gif
 
Thank you for your reply mclasser.
I know adding more lubeguard red or platinum shouldnt harm anything but the dr. Transmission i purchased in the 2oz tube is 5x more concentrated then standard lubeguard protectants.Hence why I was worried about adding to much as to much of a friction modifier could cause the trans to slip?
 
Related...

What exactly does lubeguard do? I ask this as someone who's quite skeptical of additives and under the opinion that most have a tradeoff. While one aspect may be improved, it comes at the expense of another
 
I would shoot them an email and ask. They usually reply the same day. I don't think you'll have a problem, but in this case you'll get the info straight from the mfg. The concentrated tube is not as forgiving to overdosing as the other products are.
 
SnowDrifter I will let some of the other oil gurus answer this question as my knowledge to answer your question is probably inadequate. I do know that most atf additives modify the friction characteristics of the existing atf to give it better lubricating properties.
 
Thanks for the replay darmapaint.
I have called them and spoke to a lubeguard rep about my situation.
She said it was fine and to only drain the fluid if the trans started to slip.
Unfortunately that answer did not quell my curiosity and here I am looking for a more in-depth answer.
 
Below is a copy and paste from the question and answer page of lubeguard.
This leads me to believe that putting a little much in is nothing to worry about as they suggest heading a second treatment if the shutter returns with the same treated fluid. That's 2 x the suggested ammount and your just a couple ounces over.
If you're still worried about that you can drain the pan from the drain plug and replace that bit of fluid at a readjusted rate.
I really think your fine though.

Will Dr. Transmission Shudder Fixx hurt my automatic transmission if I use it more than once?

When used as directed, Dr. Transmission Shudder Fixx will safely prevent Torque Converter shudder. If the TORQUE CONVERTER shudder returns one more treatment may be added. Do not use the Dr. Transmission Shudder Fixx again unless you change the fluid completely.
 
Thank you for your reply ablebody.
I called lubeguard and spoke to a rep.
She said I have nothing to worry about unless the trans starts to slip.
That answer wasn't good enough for my curiousity.
I'm hoping to get a more detailed answer on this forum as the knowledge floating around here is unparalleled when it come to oils and lubricants.
 
2009 toyota corolla.
Very minor shutter I was thinking it could be a stuck valve body as well?
It goes into the next gear a bit rougher then it should.
Kind of with a slightly noticeable thud.
My diagnosis as shudder could be wrong but I don't know what else to refer to it as?
It only occurs at low speeds between the 1-2 only under 1500 rpms.
Transmission has been flushed twice in its lifetime.
I'm kind of at a loss as to why I'm having issues with such low miles and routine maintenance being performed.
 
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Lets be clear: Is it a shudder? Or a thud?

A thud is.. A thud
A shudder is a vibration during shifts


Spitballing for both until I hear back:

Accumulators could be worn out
Motor mounts
Transmission mounts
ECM reflash (toyota did a few, call and see)
Wrong fluid used
Incorrect fluid level
Air in the fluid - potentially leaky pickup tube
 
Snowdrifter ide say it's more of a thud.
I've had Toyota do a full flush one at 30k and one around 55k.
They claimed to use genuine toyota atf fluid both times.
The lubeguard seemed to help whatever the issue was big time.The issue is now much less noticeable and I forget about it til on the odd occasions the trans is forced to shift below 1500 rpms and then you can notice it. It's definitely gotten better with the lubeguard friction modifier I added around 600 miles ago.In fact it seems to get better by the day.
 
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Few more questions:

1. Was it temperature dependent?

Ex:
Only thuds shortly after start
Only in stop and go
Only after driving 30 mins
etc


2. How's fluid level?



3. Does it feel like a firm shift? Or like a marked thud either during the shift or just after?
 
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Snowdrifter thanks for your reply.
The thud is present in stop and go and mainly during takeoff and is present more so when warmed up then cold.
It is only noticeable if you really let the revs hang around 1500 rpm and force it to shift right above idle.No.noise is present when shifting at 2,000 rpms and above.
Ide say it feels like a overly firm shift then anything else.
There is a bit of a muffled thud that comes from the transmission after the shift is completed.
But it's very minor and only noticeable when trying to listen for it.
Also fluid level has been perfect since the flush at 2k miles ago.
 
Snowdrifter thanks for your reply.
The thud is present in stop and go and mainly during takeoff and is present more so when warmed up then cold.
It is only noticeable if you really let the revs hang around 1500 rpm and force it to shift right above idle.No.noise is present when shifting at 2,000 rpms and above.
Ide say it feels like a overly firm shift then anything else.
There is a bit of a muffled thud that comes from the transmission after the shift is completed.
But it's very minor and only noticeable when trying to listen for it.
Also fluid level has been perfect since the flush at 2k miles ago.
 
Originally Posted by JUSTINPULV
Snowdrifter thanks for your reply.
The thud is present in stop and go and mainly during takeoff and is present more so when warmed up then cold.
It is only noticeable if you really let the revs hang around 1500 rpm and force it to shift right above idle.No.noise is present when shifting at 2,000 rpms and above.
Ide say it feels like a overly firm shift then anything else.
There is a bit of a muffled thud that comes from the transmission after the shift is completed.
But it's very minor and only noticeable when trying to listen for it.
Also fluid level has been perfect since the flush at 2k miles ago.


Good. Now we have a start point

Inspect your motor / transmission mounts. I know your vehicle is low mileage, however the rubber it's made from is not immune from the effects of age. If there are no obvious cracks, tears, or other signs of wear, then your next step would be to grab a friend and have them shift as follows

Ebrake on, foot on the brake

Drive - bit of gas

Reverse - bit of gas

You're applying torque to the system so you can see which mount is giving you the freeplay. They're rubber - there should be a little bit of give, but the interior of the mount should never strike the exterior. That'll make more sense when you poke your head under and see what they look like. There will be 4 of them. One of them might have a vacuum line going to it for variable damping. Can't remember if Toyota did it on these vehicles or not. If it's there, don't forget to inspect the vacuum line too.



"But wait why is it getting better with lubeguard"
Don't confuse correlation with causation. If the correlation is lubeguard and the noise, the causation could be a softer engagement masking the effects of excessive freeplay in the mounts. That does not, however, mean that the original issue is fixed. If it is a bad mount, then the issue will inevitably return as it continues to wear
 
This forum has some experts in many fields, use their knowledge that's what they are here for. I would PM MolaKule and ask him about Dr Shudder, I don't know enough about the product to say one way or the other if 3X the amount is too much in such a small unit.
PM clinebarger about transmission issues, he is probably the best transmission man on the form, he knows his stuff. I could answer your questions but I would also consult with these guys for their opinion.
 
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