Diagnosing Kohler ignition coil/module

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I have a Craftsman lawn tractor that won't start. It cranks and is getting fuel. I removed the plug and it had some gas on it and even replaced it with a used one, but it won't fire.

I began trouble shooting, suspecting the ignition switch, but it's OK. I disconnected the kill wire to the coil and still no start. Finally removed the coil and checked it with a DMM. Laminations to spark plug connector showed 9k ohms (within range according to the service manual for this series, CV15). However, the kill terminal to lamination or spark plug connection is too high to display (higher than 10M ohms or open). The manual doesn't show any specification for this measurement, only high tension to laminations. I did see a video on YT where a guy was checking a Kohler coil and his manual had a spec for the kill terminal resistance (in fact, his read open like mine and declared the coil bad based on that).

My question is whether an open kill terminal would cause no spark? I've gone ahead and ordered a replacement as I've heard that multimeter tests aren't always reliable, the coil in question was manufactured in 1995, and the part less than $15 (delivery tomorrow).
 
Open kill wire is the normal situation allowing it to run. The key switch grounds the kill wire to stop the engine.

So troubleshooting consists of disconnecting the kill wire to eliminate any problems with the machine wiring. If the coil does not fire sparks with the kill wire disconnected, it is very likely a bad coil. (Other possibilities would be bad magnets, coil installed upside down, or wrong coil for the flywheel).
 
Follow up and resolution: received new replacement coil today which cured the no-starting problem. This "good" coil also read infinite resistance between the kill terminal and both the laminations and spark plug terminal. Resistance reading was similar to the bad coil, so ohm meter testing proved to be unreliable.
 
Originally Posted by Touring5
Follow up and resolution: received new replacement coil today which cured the no-starting problem. This "good" coil also read infinite resistance between the kill terminal and both the laminations and spark plug terminal. Resistance reading was similar to the bad coil, so ohm meter testing proved to be unreliable.

insulation failure or even just 1 shorted turn will kill it.
and neither will show in a basic resistance test.
a ring test will show a shorted turn.
 
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