Dexos 5W20 required but used non-Dexos

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Dexos is NOT required, it's only recommended.

Read the owner's manual....
1666499485780.jpg

This seems to say that it is required, however API SP should be pretty much equivalent to D1G1.
 
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You've made the call. No Dexos Full Syn oils to save, what $25.00.
If something, lubricant related, were to go wrong will you own it?
The oil you have decided to use will probably be fine but if not?
It's on you.
I own a quick lube and deal with this every day.
You want an oil to protect a small 1.2 liter (75 cu in) engine for 5000+ miles?
I'd want the best oil available. At least one that's Dexos spec'd.
It's your Mother, no less.
If you scare easy and believe everything car say makers about engine oil, use what you want. Or just do like I do. No mechanical problems in over 35,000 miles. What does that tell you ?. I'm sure I'm not the only person that doesn't use whats recommend and like magic, have no problems. If the mfgr knows so much about lubrication, like you think they would, why do so many of GM's vehicles have oil consumption issues with their cars?. That's with using their RECOMMENDED oil. My wife'
s car is long out of warranty and even when it wasn't, they didn't want to pay for what it tales to correct the problem. I corrected the problem alot cheaper than rebuilding the engine.
 
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I corrected the problem alot cheaper than rebuilding the engine.
I don’t care what oil you used, you did not correct any mechanical problem that required a rebuild by changing which lubricant you used. You may have reduced consumption but the underlying issue (low tension oil rings, the Hemi tick, LS piston slap, etc) is still there.
 
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I don’t care what oil you used, you did not correct any mechanical problem that required a rebuild by changing which lubricant you used. You may have reduced consumption but the underlying issue (low tension oil rings, the Hemi tick, LS piston slap, etc) is still there.
My goal wasn't to correct a mechanical problem, it was to lower the oil consumption to what is considered acceptable these days. I've accomplished that for alot less than the cost of a engine rebuild. The car has never had a service engine light come on in it's life. Makes no engine noises, as a matter of fact it sound's sweet when it idles. Rings are the known fact of why these engine consume oil, GM knows it, but have done everything in their power to not accept blame, and repair it on their dime. But they're happy to repair the issue as long as your willing to pay for it. There no reason why modern a car with less than 80,00 miles on it would or should, need piston rings.
 
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My goal wasn't to correct a mechanical problem, it was to lower the oil consumption to what is considered acceptable these days. I've accomplished that for alot less than the cost of a engine rebuild. The car has never had a service engine light come on in it's life. Makes no engine noises, as a matter of fact it sound's sweet when it idles. Rings are the known fact of why these engine consume oil, GM knows it, but have done everything in their power to not accept blame, and repair it on their dime. But they're happy to repair the issue as long as your willing to pay for it. There no reason why modern a car with less than 80,00 miles on it would or should, need piston rings.
Just ignore what subierubyroo says, he tries to get people worked up over things.

I see nothing wrong in your approach to get lower oil consumption in your engine.
 
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Just ignore what subierubyroo says, he tries to get people worked up over things.

I see nothing wrong in your approach to get lower oil consumption in your engine.
I don’t try to get anyone worked up, y’all do that on your own. Even I’ve had some misunderstandings which were corrected by actually listening to folks on this board. I just call BS when people think the rules of actual science don’t apply in their special case.

BTW, 0w30 and 10w30 are the same viscosity at operating temps, and oil will still not fix a manufacturing nor materials defect. 😎
 
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I don’t try to get anyone worked up, y’all do that on your own. Even I’ve had some misunderstandings which were corrected by actually listening to folks on this board. I just call BS when people think the rules of actual science don’t apply in their special case.

BTW, 0w30 and 10w30 are the same viscosity at operating temps, and oil will still not fix a manufacturing nor materials defect. 😎
I agree with 0w30 and 10w30 being the same at operating temp. But by using 10w40 by itself, or with a 50/50 mix of 10w40 and 20w50, it will slow down oil consumption. And not effect how your engine runs. Plus the money you save on not rebuilding your fairly new engine, is a home run. Whats not to like.,,,
 
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I agree with 0w30 and 10w30 being the same at operating temp. But by using 10w40 by itself, or with a 50/50 mix of 10w40 and 20w50, it will slow down oil consumption. And not effect how your engine runs. Plus the money you save on not rebuilding your fairly new engine, is a home run. Whats not to like.,,,
I’ve never said there’s anything wrong with using a heavier oil to try to put off mechanical repairs. But in your case, the issue was poorly spec’d oil rings. Heavier oil may mask the issue, but the minute you return to the original grade, so does the consumption. That was my point. ✌️
 
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This seems to say that it is required
No it doesn't. In the "Selecting the right engine oil", it refers to recommended oils. Then the last, scary paragraph even again refers to recommended oil and how it "can result" in damage. That word choice was made by lawyers, not engineers.
 
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If you scare easy and believe everything car say makers about engine oil, use what you want. Or just do like I do. No mechanical problems in over 35,000 miles. What does that tell you ?. I'm sure I'm not the only person that doesn't use whats recommend and like magic, have no problems. If the mfgr knows so much about lubrication, like you think they would, why do so many of GM's vehicles have oil consumption issues with their cars?. That's with using their RECOMMENDED oil. My wife'
s car is long out of warranty and even when it wasn't, they didn't want to pay for what it tales to correct the problem. I corrected the problem alot cheaper than rebuilding the engine.
As an installer I adhere to what the OEMs recommend. For those who choose to do otherwise I'm OK as long as they take responsibility for their decision whether bad or good. If I put a non spec'd oil in any car and they suffered an oil related issue (today there are many) I'd be held responsible for the repair/replace even if the type of oil really had no impact on the damage done to an engine. The OP made a decision based on cost that may have been right or wrong. I'm a guy that changes oil for a living. I fill with what the OEM specs. If you choose otherwise you sign the invoice stating you chose a lubricant that is not approved by the OEM. My 11 Tundra specs 0w20. I use a full syn 5w30. My choice. I have no choice but take full responsibility.
BTW I don't scare EZ. Being in the DIFM biz for 30 years I ain't scared.
 
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I've always changed the oil in my mom's 2013 Chev Spark myself but got sick of it. The filter is a PITA!!!. So this place near me has 5W20 which is what the car requires and it's the Valvoline Blend but they tried to tell me I have to use Dexos full syn or it could create engine damage. I called BS and wasnt going to spend 70.00 for a change so I made them use the regular 5W20. I will say the ownersmanual says to use demos, but is this really going to be an issue?
Disappear?

You can't use the oil life monitor with a non-dexos cheap oil. Since you downgraded your oil to cheap crud, you'll need to change it more often. Do you monitor the oil life monitor countdown percentage? If you want to use the full 100%, then you need a dexos or equivalent. If you want to use some conventional or blend non-dexos oil, consider changing it at 50%.

Here is the list if you want to follow the OLM down to 0%:

Since you didn't spend the $70 on the change, you can put the money toward the new engine fund, new vehicle fund, or the sludge removal fund, or toward twice as many oil/filter changes.
 
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Disappear?

You can't use the oil life monitor with a non-dexos cheap oil. Since you downgraded your oil to cheap crud, you'll need to change it more often. Do you monitor the oil life monitor countdown percentage? If you want to use the full 100%, then you need a dexos or equivalent. If you want to use some conventional or blend non-dexos oil, consider changing it at 50%.

Here is the list if you want to follow the OLM down to 0%:

Since you didn't spend the $70 on the change, you can put the money toward the new engine fund, new vehicle fund, or the sludge removal fund, or toward twice as many oil/filter changes.
You’re ludicrous.

While dexos is a decent spec it is certainly nothing special. By your hyperventilating, you’re implying that nothing is as good that’s not dexos-branded. One could easily dump Amsoil, Mobil 1 EP, Redline, or HPL in place of a dexos oil and not only completely ignore the OLM (probably nearly twice!) but also have better longevity and performance.

From what I’ve seen in normal conditions, the OLM in most American vehicles is roughly 100 miles for every 1% on the monitor. While a 5k OCI wouldn’t be crazy, I’d much rather depend on a UOA rather than an OLM when finding the limits of an oil.
 
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You should read what I said... I am not hyperventilating and you shouldn't be jumping to conclusions...

So, the OP should use the Dexos or a $%^&ing equivalent, which would be your fancy non licensed boutique oils using marketing like meets/exceeds. Sorry if I didn't define equivalent for the gang stalkers here. I haven't seen a collection of UOA on that specific Spark engine showing double OLM intervals with better longevity or performance either. So, feel free to post the data showing that.

BTW, the OP is balking at a quick lube charge for a synthetic Dexos1 oil change would probably not splurge on fancy boutique oils, even if offered at said quicklubes.

I don't have the algorithm for his specific vehicle. So, what I see concerning countdown timers across the board means nothing. Do you have the algorithm for that specific year/make/model?

Ludicrous? Yes, you are!
You’re ludicrous.

While dexos is a decent spec it is certainly nothing special. By your hyperventilating, you’re implying that nothing is as good that’s not dexos-branded. One could easily dump Amsoil, Mobil 1 EP, Redline, or HPL in place of a dexos oil and not only completely ignore the OLM (probably nearly twice!) but also have better longevity and performance.

From what I’ve seen in normal conditions, the OLM in most American vehicles is roughly 100 miles for every 1% on the monitor. While a 5k OCI wouldn’t be crazy, I’d much rather depend on a UOA rather than an OLM when finding the limits of an oil.
 
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As an installer I adhere to what the OEMs recommend. For those who choose to do otherwise I'm OK as long as they take responsibility for their decision whether bad or good. If I put a non spec'd oil in any car and they suffered an oil related issue (today there are many) I'd be held responsible for the repair/replace even if the type of oil really had no impact on the damage done to an engine. The OP made a decision based on cost that may have been right or wrong. I'm a guy that changes oil for a living. I fill with what the OEM specs. If you choose otherwise you sign the invoice stating you chose a lubricant that is not approved by the OEM. My 11 Tundra specs 0w20. I use a full syn 5w30. My choice. I have no choice but take full responsibility.
BTW I don't scare EZ. Being in the DIFM biz for 30 years I ain't scared.
If a mfgr put enough quality in their engine build, I could be swayed to following their recommendation. But seriously, GM dropped the ball on the engine used in my wife's car, so if they can't build the engine correctly, why would you believe they know anything about the proper engine oil for it?. I proved to myself that I can pick a product that works fine. GM's recommendation is to only sell oil, and put the profits in their pockets. And by using the SCARE tactics of warranty denial, helps keep their car owners afraid to try something that works as well, or better then what they recommend. When you build a car that uses a qt of oil every 750 miles, the odds of having to rebuild or replace that engine goes way up. As most people don't want to be bothered checking their oil every 2 days, and you shouldn't need to in a properly built engine.,,
 

Wardonkey

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You should read what I said... I am not hyperventilating and you shouldn't be jumping to conclusions...

So, the OP should use the Dexos or a $%^&ing equivalent, which would be your fancy non licensed boutique oils using marketing like meets/exceeds. Sorry if I didn't define equivalent for the gang stalkers here. I haven't seen a collection of UOA on that specific Spark engine showing double OLM intervals with better longevity or performance either. So, feel free to post the data showing that.

BTW, the OP is balking at a quick lube charge for a synthetic Dexos1 oil change would probably not splurge on fancy boutique
 
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