Delo 5W40 vs T6 Rotella 5W40 for Jeep 4 Liter

[Carlostrece]

I only drive my 99 Jeep (4 liter engine) about 2000 to 2500 a year, and change my motor oil at 5000 miles, which is an oil and filter change approx every 2.5 years. I don't plan to change more often (but I'm willing to change less often). I need an oil that accommodates that as well as possible.

I want to use same oil year round with Winter cold starts as cold as 8F and Summers as hot as 105F. I drive it hard and fast. The engine is usually 210F, but in Summer (especially when sand wheeling at beach) the engine stays around 220F to 225F.

===

My oil filter is a Baldwin B2 oil filter (twice as long as normal, all other specs normal) that holds 1 quart, flows well, filters reasonably fine particles, and has a good anti-drain-back valve.

I change the filter when I change the oil. It holds 6.5 quarts including the long B2 filter.

===

I've narrowed it down to 2 oils for my 99 Jeep 4 liter engine.

Chevron Delo 5W40 or Shell T6 Rotella 5W40. Those are available everywhere at low cost in my local area. Even Walmart carries them.

Are they true synthetics? How do the additives compare?

Is one better than the other for my uses, or should I buy whichever is cheaper?

I drive my 99 Jeep (4 liter engine) 2000 to 2500 miles a year and change my motor oil and filter at 5000 miles, which is approx 2.5 years oil change interval. I don't want to change oil more often.

Also, I want to use same oil year round. Winter cold starts as cold as 8F and Summers can be as hot as 105F. I drive it hard and fast. It's often around 3000 to 3200 rpm for extended periods when driving up highway mountain passes, and near 5500 rpm red line when passing in mountains. The engine is usually 210F to 215F, but in Summer sand wheeling at beach the engine stays around 220F to 225F for up to an hour at a time.

So I need an oil that is good for cold starts, can handle heat, 5550 rpm (without foaming), be changed around 2.5 years, keep my engine as clean as possible (under the circumstances), and provide good wear protection.

I live in a damp climate for 2/3 of the year, if that matters regarding corrosion or damp oil.

If neither of those oils is up to the challenge, I can spend more money for better oil; but I suspect one or both is up to the challenge (and their local Walmart prices are low).

 

[Donald]

T6 is great oil. But I would use a 10W30. Make sure any oil you use is gas engine rated. With the new CK4 rating for diesel motor oil, some have dropped the SN gas rating.

 

[Carlostrece]

Why does it matter if it's gas rated? It's just a government infuenced designation number. The EPA is pressuring the oil companies to stop selling us good oil for gas engines with enough zinc and phosphorus.

So the oil companies are pressured (under threats of suits or fines) to stop putting gasoline ratings on their diesel oils because the government wants to discourage us from using them in our gas engines.

So they stop printing that designation on the bottle of oil, but it's still the same oil isn't it? If it's still good enough for a diesel engine then it's still good enough for an older gas engine isn't it? I don't think a couple letters on the back of a bottle changes that.

Am I missing something?

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Carlostrece
Why does it matter if it's gas rated? It's just a government infuenced designation number. The EPA is pressuring the oil companies to stop selling us good oil for gas engines with enough zinc and phosphorus.

So the oil companies are pressured (under threats of suits or fines) to stop putting gasoline ratings on their diesel oils because the government wants to discourage us from using them in our gas cars.

So they stop printing that designation on the bottle of oil, but it's still the same oil isn't it? If it's still good enough for a diesel engine then it's still good enough for an older gas engine isn't it? I don't think a couple letters on the back of a bottle changes that.

Am I missing something?


So wait... Everyone with a gasoline engine should not use oils with gasoline ratings because they are inferior?

Which diesel oil should I use instead of Castrol 0W-40 for my BMW?

 

[Carlostrece]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Carlostrece
Why does it matter if it's gas rated? It's just a government infuenced designation number. The EPA is pressuring the oil companies to stop selling us good oil for gas engines with enough zinc and phosphorus.

So the oil companies are pressured (under threats of suits or fines) to stop putting gasoline ratings on their diesel oils because the government wants to discourage us from using them in our gas cars.

So they stop printing that designation on the bottle of oil, but it's still the same oil isn't it? If it's still good enough for a diesel engine then it's still good enough for an older gas engine isn't it? I don't think a couple letters on the back of a bottle changes that.

Am I missing something?


So wait... Everyone with a gasoline engine should not use oils with gasoline ratings because they are inferior?

Which diesel oil should I use instead of Castrol 0W-40 for my BMW?


I never said that. I can see where the stereotype about BMW owners comes from.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Carlostrece
I never said that. I can see where the stereotype about BMW owners comes from.


Ah, I see. I guess that reading what you wrote gave me that impression.

 

[bullwinkle]

Why not a dual-rated oil like Rotella T5 10W30 (or even the rare 10W40)? The 4.0 can handle just about anything that resembles motor oil, and HDEO dual-rated diesel oils seem to do the best. Also, I like Baldwin filters, but the Ultra XG8A has been really good on my '98-I could literally use one until the can rusted out if I wanted to, but I wouldn't do multi-year OCIs on a cellulose filter. Now the B2-HPG would be a different story.

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: Carlostrece
I only drive my 99 Jeep (4 liter engine) about 2000 to 2500 a year, and change my motor oil at 5000 miles, which is an oil and filter change approx every 2.5 years. I don't plan to change more often (but I'm willing to change less often). I need an oil that accommodates that as well as possible.

I want to use same oil year round with Winter cold starts as cold as 8F and Summers as hot as 105F. I drive it hard and fast. The engine is usually 210F, but in Summer (especially when sand wheeling at beach) the engine stays around 220F to 225F.

===

My oil filter is a Baldwin B2 oil filter (twice as long as normal, all other specs normal) that holds 1 quart, flows well, filters reasonably fine particles, and has a good anti-drain-back valve.

I change the filter when I change the oil. It holds 6.5 quarts including the long B2 filter.

===

I've narrowed it down to 2 oils for my 99 Jeep 4 liter engine.

Chevron Delo 5W40 or Shell T6 Rotella 5W40. Those are available everywhere at low cost in my local area. Even Walmart carries them.

Are they true synthetics? How do the additives compare?

Is one better than the other for my uses, or should I buy whichever is cheaper?

I drive my 99 Jeep (4 liter engine) 2000 to 2500 miles a year and change my motor oil and filter at 5000 miles, which is approx 2.5 years oil change interval. I don't want to change oil more often.

Also, I want to use same oil year round. Winter cold starts as cold as 8F and Summers can be as hot as 105F. I drive it hard and fast. It's often around 3000 to 3200 rpm for extended periods when driving up highway mountain passes, and near 5500 rpm red line when passing in mountains. The engine is usually 210F to 215F, but in Summer sand wheeling at beach the engine stays around 220F to 225F for up to an hour at a time.

So I need an oil that is good for cold starts, can handle heat, 5550 rpm (without foaming), be changed around 2.5 years, keep my engine as clean as possible (under the circumstances), and provide good wear protection.

I live in a damp climate for 2/3 of the year, if that matters regarding corrosion or damp oil.

If neither of those oils is up to the challenge, I can spend more money for better oil; but I suspect one or both is up to the challenge (and their local Walmart prices are low).



This is your second thread about the same topic. And now doubling posts inside of posts at that.

There is no way you'll ever know the difference between the two. And you'll never collect enough data to prove either is "better" than the other, or anything else for that matter.

Choose one or the other and be done with it.

 

[BrocLuno]

Either one, flip a coin

 

[Carlostrece]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Carlostrece
I never said that. I can see where the stereotype about BMW owners comes from.


Ah, I see. I guess that reading what you wrote gave me that impression.


You have a BMW that uses 0W40 Euro oil. In this thread I'm not talking about BMW, 0W40, or Euro oils. This part of the forum isn't even about Euro oils.

We have a communication problem. No offense intended. You don't understand me, and I don't understand you. It happens.

For my part I'm sorry I got testy in one post. No hard feelings.

 

[Carlostrece]

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Why not a dual-rated oil like Rotella T5 10W30 (or even the rare 10W40)? The 4.0 can handle just about anything that resembles motor oil, and HDEO dual-rated diesel oils seem to do the best. Also, I like Baldwin filters, but the Ultra XG8A has been really good on my '98-I could literally use one until the can rusted out if I wanted to, but I wouldn't do multi-year OCIs on a cellulose filter. Now the B2-HPG would be a different story.


I had a leaky aftermarket cold air intake that allowed sand into my engine while wheeling at the beach. I have a slight knock in my engine after that. Compared to 10W30 or 5W30 the 5w40 quiets the knock and gives better oil pressure when idling at full op temp. 5w40 keeps oil pressure at 25 psi when idling at full op temp. Also, after cold start, and when at full op temp, the valves are noticeably quieter with 5w40.

My gas mileage is 24 mpg driving at 60 mph on Summer days (no AC and windows mostly up). So 5W40 isn't lowering my gas mileage much, if any. That's with the Pennzoil Euro 5W40 that I've been using. The Penn Euro 5W40 is excellent performing oil, IMO, but it's expensive and hard to find in my local area. Delo and Rotella cost 1/3 less and are easy to find.

As for 5W30 or 10W30 synthetics, like I said above the oil pressure is lower at full op temp and the engine makes noticeably more noise after cold start and at full op temp. I tried 0W40 Mobil One for a while. My engine didn't like 0W40 much (more engine noises and oil burning blue smoke at cold start, and more tapping and knocking noises at full op temp, as well as less oil pressure at full op temp).

 

[Carlostrece]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
This is your second thread about the same topic. And now doubling posts inside of posts at that.

There is no way you'll ever know the difference between the two. And you'll never collect enough data to prove either is "better" than the other, or anything else for that matter.

Choose one or the other and be done with it.


It's not quite the same topic since I now have it narrowed down to 2 oils.

I don't think I doubled a post inside a post, except when I quoted the other guy who had quoted me, which at casual glance may have looked like I quoted myself, but I was quoting him.

OK, I will pick one.

 

[Carlostrece]

Hmm. Well I just lurked and read a few articles at other forums where they think a Euro 5w40 is a better choice for an older USA gas engine than a diesel oil. Amsoil's website also had a convincing article on the topic. In all cases, they said the detergent package in diesel oils is made to keep a diesel engine clean, but not formulated appropriately for keeping a gas engine clean. This was not a emissions issue (though there's that too). They recommended a Euro oil as a better choice for an older USA gas engine (like my Jeep).

Does anyone have thoughts on that?

I'm currently using Pennzoil Euro 5w40. It's a good oil, but expensive. I may look at alternative brands of 5W40 Euro to see if any are less cost.

 

[BrocLuno]

If you got sand in the engine and it has noises, it's not worth tossing expensive oil at. Just run 15W-40 HDEO and it will run a zillion miles. And, if it quits, it won't be becasue of oil. It'll be because of what happened to it.

That old 6 only needs 10~15 psi oil pressure at idle hot to run a zillion miles. Just keep the oil clean and you are good for as long as can be expected ...

 

[Hessam]

if it counts for anything, i have used both RT6 and Delo 5W-40 in my LX450, and the inline-6 seems to like the Delo S more. Both oils are stout, but my oil usage goes down a about half quart every 1000 miles with the Delo S also.

 

[Boczech]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
If you got sand in the engine and it has noises, it's not worth tossing expensive oil at. Just run 15W-40 HDEO and it will run a zillion miles. And, if it quits, it won't be becasue of oil. It'll be because of what happened to it.

That old 6 only needs 10~15 psi oil pressure at idle hot to run a zillion miles. Just keep the oil clean and you are good for as long as can be expected ...


X1 Good Advice !!


B